all lincoln lockers

[ThatGuy]

Yeah genius. Just cuz you don't care if you can get the c-clip out if you break an axle that means you also can't get a new one in. In other words once you break an axle that whole carrier is done. If you're gonna weld it, weld it correctly so you can get to the axles.

 

[nate09]

You do not need to remove the ring and carrier, just clean the diff out really well with brake cleaner so you don't catch it on fire when you're welding.

do NOT use brake cleaner. perhaps you missed this thread...

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62568

 

[Shran]

do NOT use brake cleaner. perhaps you missed this thread...

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62568

This is absolutely 100% good advice, thanks for reposting it.

That said, it's liquid brake cleaner that's harmful - and there really are not many other effective ways of cleaning the diff out before welding. Just let it evaporate and blow it out with compressed air, and it will be fine.

 

[gwaii]

i know im bringing back my old thread but i got lots of other trucks with axles i can use, so i dont really care about getting at my c-clips if the shaft breaks i can just throw in another axle. and i would trust it more having that plate welded between the gears, i might do this tomorrow

What I'd suggest is filling in some of the teeth on the spiders and side gears with weld... that way they don't turn. Then you can still remove the crosspin and remove the c-clips if you break a shaft. It's pointless to ruin an otherwise good axle by making it so you can't get the shafts out.

Yeah genius. Just cuz you don't care if you can get the c-clip out if you break an axle that means you also can't get a new one in. In other words once you break an axle that whole carrier is done. If you're gonna weld it, weld it correctly so you can get to the axles.

he has a 9" in that bronco.....no c-clips,the axles are retained by plates on the outer ends.

and while it is possible to weld spiders on most diffs without pulling the ring gear,i don't reccomend it.pull the carrier,remove the gear,clean the hell out of it with solvent(as noted-not brake clean)and weld the side gears to the carrier thoroughly.then,reassemble after it's had a chance to cool(slowly)

if you have a 9",the side gears are hidden inside a closed carrier that splits by removing the ring gear.spiders must be removed to get to the side gears.weld ONE side gear thoroughly,making sure not to damage the mating surfaces on the carrier halfs,then reassemble.
the reason for only welding one side is that it is almost impossible to align the side gears on the two carrier halfs so the spiders fit back in.
you could also just weld the two side gears and leave the spiders out,but i find the former method to be more effective.

 

[ThatGuy]

Woulda been nice to know he was talking about a FSB in a ranger forum. Didn't see anywhere in his post that said anything about a FSB or a 9". After many noted the c-clip still nothing said about a 9".

If indeed you are working on a 9" then you still can't use the block cuz the 9" carrier is completely different. I didn't take mine apart, I just filled it full of weld.

 

[fastpakr]

I don't see anything that indicates he's working on the Bronco either. Might be the case, but it wasn't stated that way.

 

[Jason]

i know im bringing back my old thread but i got lots of other trucks with axles i can use, so i dont really care about getting at my c-clips if the shaft breaks i can just throw in another axle. and i would trust it more having that plate welded between the gears, i might do this tomorrow

It isn't going to be any stronger, and if you leave the clips you can get the axles out easily. Are you seriously going to put yourself in a position that you have to change the whole rear end out over a wheel seal leaking? You can also swap shafts on a trail, let's see you do THAT with a whole axle housing. Hell, I would like to see the guy offroading that even carries a whole axle housing.

 

[Shran]

I am pretty sure he's talking about either a Ranger or a B2 since he said he has multiple axles, and I'm also pretty sure that he only has one fullsize truck.

 

[Jason]

I am pretty sure he's talking about either a Ranger or a B2 since he said he has multiple axles, and I'm also pretty sure that he only has one fullsize truck.

That's what I am guessing.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

he has a 9" in that bronco.....no c-clips,the axles are retained by plates on the outer ends.

and while it is possible to weld spiders on most diffs without pulling the ring gear,i don't reccomend it.pull the carrier,remove the gear,clean the hell out of it with solvent(as noted-not brake clean)and weld the side gears to the carrier thoroughly.then,reassemble after it's had a chance to cool(slowly)

if you have a 9",the side gears are hidden inside a closed carrier that splits by removing the ring gear.spiders must be removed to get to the side gears.weld ONE side gear thoroughly,making sure not to damage the mating surfaces on the carrier halfs,then reassemble.
the reason for only welding one side is that it is almost impossible to align the side gears on the two carrier halfs so the spiders fit back in.
you could also just weld the two side gears and leave the spiders out,but i find the former method to be more effective.

It's been 25 or more years since I've done any work on a 9". I don't remember how I accessed the side gears. But another option for a cheap posi, instead of welding the side gears what worked for me in the day was adding an extra side gear shim/washer. I found a carrier from a 6 cyl. truck from the 50's/60's with the gearing I wanted and added the shim. You can buy the shim or take it from a junk carrier. Make sure you index the ring and pinion so you don't get a drone while cruising. If you find one with 4 spiders, even stronger. That worked for me behind a stock 429/c-6 in a '68 Torino. I put about 10,000 miles on it and had no problems. Also have done this recently in a d-28, but have no hard miles on it yet. I can't see why this wouldn't work with a 7.5 or 8.8, but have no intimate knowledge of these rears . This DOES put extra pressure loading on the side/spider gears so it can grenade, be aware of this if you try this at home.

Richard

 

[gwaii]

actually,it doesn't state in the thread if it's the bronco or not.i simply assumed this because that's the only rig i've seen him post about,and the toyota diff he pictured is set up on the axle retainers the same way as the 9".either way,the info i provided is valid.

boggin,let us know which axle you are talking about.

 

[Boggin]

sorry guys, i was talking about the b2 (7.5) not the 9".
i got one of the old axles on the bench in the garage now so tonight im gonna pull the side axles and ring gear and weld the hell out of it.

 

[legoms013]

sorry guys, i was talking about the b2 (7.5) not the 9".
i got one of the old axles on the bench in the garage now so tonight im gonna pull the side axles and ring gear and weld the hell out of it.

Crank the heat and wire speed all the way up on the buzz box you got :icon_welder:

:icon_thumby::icon_thumby::icon_thumby:

Good luck!

 

[gwaii]

sorry guys, i was talking about the b2 (7.5) not the 9".
i got one of the old axles on the bench in the garage now so tonight im gonna pull the side axles and ring gear and weld the hell out of it.

holy crap man....that was what,last september i asked that?way to give a quick response!:icon_rofl:

oh,and good luck with the welding.just make sure everything is clean,ditch the shims behind the side gears,and don't use the spider gears.just weld the side gears to the carrier.the cross pin will still be needed to retain the c-clips.

 

[Boggin]

holy crap man....that was what,last september i asked that?way to give a quick response!:icon_rofl:

oh,and good luck with the welding.just make sure everything is clean,ditch the shims behind the side gears,and don't use the spider gears.just weld the side gears to the carrier.the cross pin will still be needed to retain the c-clips.

hahah yeah sorry for the delay:icon_rofl:

and thank you for that, im going to bring it to my buddys shop and get him to do it since hes been welding for 20 or 30 years and this is kind of an important part lol

 

[gwaii]

hahah yeah sorry for the delay:icon_rofl:

and thank you for that, im going to bring it to my buddys shop and get him to do it since hes been welding for 20 or 30 years and this is kind of an important part lol

good on ya.another important point is to let it cool slowly.if you try to quench it,it'll crack for sure.

 

[t120r]

Hmmm... Welding a rotating mass, with an inherent unbalance, that could potentially kill you if it lets go... I think I'll keep out of this one.

 

[Boggin]

good on ya.another important point is to let it cool slowly.if you try to quench it,it'll crack for sure.

thanks dude:icon_thumby:

Hmmm... Welding a rotating mass, with an inherent unbalance, that could potentially kill you if it lets go... I think I'll keep out of this one.

um Gary, did I ask you for your opinion? i told you i wont be in as far as your house in her, only gonna be a trail rig and a beater for around town

 

[t120r]

Actually you did ask my opinion and I told you not to risk your life as I already have a friend cause of a lincoln locker. Not keen on having another. But hopefully you never have a problem with it and I never get the same news again.

 

[Boggin]

Actually you did ask my opinion and I told you not to risk your life as I already have a friend cause of a lincoln locker. Not keen on having another. But hopefully you never have a problem with it and I never get the same news again.

Yeah, well its like I told you a few weeks ago, it only gonna be my driver around town, it will be mostly offroad use anyways, my mustang will be my main daily driver