- Joined
- Apr 13, 2009
- Messages
- 205
- Reaction score
- 45
- Points
- 28
- Location
- Red Deer, Canada
- Vehicle Year
- '91, '93, '98
- Vehicle
- Various
- Engine Size
- 4.0, 4.0, 4.6
- Suspension Style
- 4wd
From the right,
the stock bottom washer
the stock top washer
F150 washer;
the new longer brake flex line, the same as in the tech section, Wagner bh120541 and bh120542, installed but before removing the metal bracket;
here you can see protrusions that have to be filed off in order to fit into the stock bucket bracket;
This is why there is a right and left side. I installed new copper washer but didn't pay attention to the end close enough. The flat portion is offset from the round part and will leak if installed wrong way. I caught the screw-up before I added fluid.;
My vacuum bleeder set-up. I grab vacuum from the engine and run it to the mason jar. It connects to a fitting that runs to near the bottom of the jar. Then another line runs from the top of the lid to the bleeder valve. With the engine running and keeping an eye on the master fluid level, I watch for the bubbles to stop and then close the bleeder valve;
After install reference shots;
And how it sits now;
I gained a little more than 3" and could use a drop pitman arm and alignment. It's not going to happen tho as all I use the truck for is plowing the driveway and the occasional snow wheeling trip. One of the things I have to do is get longer bumpstops or add a piece to the top of my beams....the shocks could bottom out if I hit a bump hard enough.
Some additional info;
spring nut = 1 1/8"
caliper bleeder = 11mm
bottom shock mount bolt head 18mm
shocks are Rancho rs5136
brake flex lines are Wagner bh 120541 and bh 120542
spring dia. `5/8", # of coils = 7
One other thing I have to fix is the clutch switch. It allows me to use the starter only infrequently. I haven't worked on one of them yet so hope I can just bypass it temporarily. If anyone knows if that is possible please let me know before I cut wires I don't need to.
Thanks for looking,
Richard
the stock bottom washer
the stock top washer
F150 washer;
the new longer brake flex line, the same as in the tech section, Wagner bh120541 and bh120542, installed but before removing the metal bracket;
here you can see protrusions that have to be filed off in order to fit into the stock bucket bracket;
This is why there is a right and left side. I installed new copper washer but didn't pay attention to the end close enough. The flat portion is offset from the round part and will leak if installed wrong way. I caught the screw-up before I added fluid.;
My vacuum bleeder set-up. I grab vacuum from the engine and run it to the mason jar. It connects to a fitting that runs to near the bottom of the jar. Then another line runs from the top of the lid to the bleeder valve. With the engine running and keeping an eye on the master fluid level, I watch for the bubbles to stop and then close the bleeder valve;
After install reference shots;
And how it sits now;
I gained a little more than 3" and could use a drop pitman arm and alignment. It's not going to happen tho as all I use the truck for is plowing the driveway and the occasional snow wheeling trip. One of the things I have to do is get longer bumpstops or add a piece to the top of my beams....the shocks could bottom out if I hit a bump hard enough.
Some additional info;
spring nut = 1 1/8"
caliper bleeder = 11mm
bottom shock mount bolt head 18mm
shocks are Rancho rs5136
brake flex lines are Wagner bh 120541 and bh 120542
spring dia. `5/8", # of coils = 7
One other thing I have to fix is the clutch switch. It allows me to use the starter only infrequently. I haven't worked on one of them yet so hope I can just bypass it temporarily. If anyone knows if that is possible please let me know before I cut wires I don't need to.
Thanks for looking,
Richard