bII not kick down at idle

[bIIjr]

i just double checked i have no check engine light in the cluster

 

[PetesPonies]

You should fix that ASAP. It's there for a reason. But the codes can be gotten with a scanner or an analog voltmeter. I suggest finding one or the other. The analog meter will be easier to find. Someone probably has one you can borrow or buy one at Radio Shack.

 

[bIIjr]

it didnt come with a check engine light from the factory

You should fix that ASAP. It's there for a reason. But the codes can be gotten with a scanner or an analog voltmeter. I suggest finding one or the other. The analog meter will be easier to find. Someone probably has one you can borrow or buy one at Radio Shack.

 

[PetesPonies]

hmm. OK but you can still pull codes with a scanner or analog voltmeter. You will have codes stored.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If it blows black smoke at startup thats a classic valve guide seals if the compression is within 10% change the valve guide seals the burning oil will allways give you grief it will destroy the cat and the IAT will allways get dirty quick. My guess is it will run OK after you clean the sensor and reset the computer but it wont take long for the computer to go waco again. Change the PCV and air filter regular and clean the TB good around the butterfly and IAC and clean the EGR also. It sounds like it has been neglected get a can of seafoam and run it around 2000 rpm until operating temp and suck about half a can into the brake booster fitting and rev it up until the smoke clears. From the sound of it it will smoke really good. The more carbon in the cylinders the more it will smoke hopefully upwind of the neighbor that dont like you, it will make quite a cloud that will clean the pistons, rings, cylinders and valves. Then check the compression again.

 

[PetesPonies]

Black smoke is absolutely not oil being burned. Oil smoke is a greyish blue. Black smoke is overly rich. When you have worn valve guides and/or worn seals, oil is brought into the combustion chamber during an intake stroke. Then, oil burns along with the fuel mixture and it is a grey blue color, definitely not black.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oops I forgot as soon as you suck the seafoam in immediately turn the engine off for 15 minutes it will dissolve the carbon and then start and run it between 3000 and 3500 rpm until the smoke clears

 

[bIIjr]

it dont blow black smoke since the heads was replaced i guess its just everything that still had carbon the plentum is still black kinda black i sprayed carb cleaner in it to get what i could

 

[bIIjr]

something else to add last time i after it would shut off ran it back in the summer. it would shut off and the egr vac. selenoid would gurgle like a coffee maker and then it would start and run for a bit and repeat the cycle . so could i have a bad egr valve / selenoid combo ?????

 

[PetesPonies]

This is getting ludicrous now. You don't take pot shots at everything on an engine, in order to fix a problem. It's wasteful, expensive and not professional. Your number one thing to do now is pull codes, plain and simple.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you pull the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator if it smells like fuel the regulator is bad.

 

[bIIjr]

ok so i found a meter is there idiot proof instructions anywhere

 

[PetesPonies]

yes the tee is. im out of town and on my tablet so I cant help now. just search for eecIV test with analog meter

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html
It is really easy once you know when to turn the key on make a good jumper wire and have a pad and pen ready you can use a test light also. count the blinks or sweeps of the needle and have someone write the numbers down its easy to miss one just writing it down. First erase the memory by connecting the jumper wire and turn the key on when it starts sending codes disconnect the jumper and wait about ten seconds. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour. Take it out for a spin for about 20 minutes at medium speeds then when you get home while the engine is still hot run the KOEO test key on engine off. Write the codes down and fix the codes in the order received. One at a time lowest number first do the repair and start all over again erase the memory and reset the computer do a road test then pull the codes to confirm the repair. once you get all 1s and you still have issues it is likely mechanically related.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-Ford-Automotive-Code-Reader-Innova-3143-/230903177520?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c2e6e130
I bought one like this on craigs list and it had the extension cable you could do all the testing sitting in the drivers seat I didnt notice if this one had the instructions there are several other tests wiggle test, KOER, output state check all codes will be stored in the memory you can retrieve at any time doing the KOEO test.

 

[bIIjr]

lol two issues one not street worthy two it will never run 20 minutes. im really starting to hate this thing same reasons i dont know if i can pull off using seafoam it will never restart once warmed up.

 

[bIIjr]

i have to a fix a wire before i can do anything else i have a orange wire that goes on the solenoid switch . it was split wide open

 

[bIIjr]

ok so i got my hands on a scanner and it pulled code 34 it goes back to the egr / selinoid so where do i go from here ????

 

[PetesPonies]

I assume this was a KOEO code scan? As opposed to KOER test. Your 34 code means the evap system didn't respond as it should have . . sometime. That stored a memory code. I would suggest running a KOER test and see what happens. Its a "fun" test as the computer will take over your engine controls. You will be asked to do a few things while it's running the test.

 

[brinker88]

Have you checked the vaccuum diaphram on the transmission? Sounds like it could be your problem. If the vaccuum line OR the diaphram is bad, it won't shit right. It's located on the passenger side of your transmission up on top. You can see it if you unbolt your inspection plate in the cab.