Bought an 88 bronco 2

[Aleksfoxtrot]

It needs a new passenger side outer u joint. Is there a way to do this without removing the axle. I really don't want to have to replace the seal in the diff. 3 caps are already busted off the old u joint to that makes it a little easier to get the old one out. I'm thinking I can do it without removing the axle. Anyone tried?

 

[chrwilkins30]

If its the OUTER one then yes! you will still have to tear that side all the way down and pull the clamp holding the boot of the two shafts. There is a slip joints that separates the two. If the inner joint goes out then you'll have to pull the diff, no other way around it to pull the c-clip.

 

[jhammel85]

^ Ditto. And if it is the outer, It's really not hard at all, Like he said.

 

[Aleksfoxtrot]

Right on. I got it done. Dd te break lines ready to back it out and the dang fuel pump locked up. After getting it out I verified that it was locked up bought another one got it in. Aaaaaaand no power to the pump. Checked the relay, had power, hit the inertia switch nothing. Then checked, no power to the inertia switch from the relay, but the relay is good. I replaced the relay even though I figured it wouldn't help. And of course it didn't. Straight jumped to the inertia switch from the battery by passing everything, and sure enough the pump kicked on. Cool, I thought, I can just straight wire it with a toggle switch. Then I got to thinking the computer doesn't come on until it gets a signal that the pump is running from the relay, if you cut the relay out of the circuit the computer won't come on and fire the injectors, and sure enough I tried with the pump running and turning the engine over I didn't get any firing. So does anyone know what wire I need to tap into on the computer so it knows the fuel pump is on. Ill just put that one, and the fuel pump on the same switch. I really don't want to dig through all those dang wires to find where the broken wire is.

 

[Aleksfoxtrot]

Alright test pin 22 is supposed to send a ground signal to the fuel pump relay to finish the circuit. All I am getting is a hot signal on both sides of the relay coil. So there is a short somewhere on the ground side. Or the computer is shorter and sending the wrong signal.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The computer switches the ground to the relay if you put battery posative to that wire you may have fried the computer. To switch the fuel pump manually on the test connector for the computer there is a fuel pump wire all you do is switch engine ground to that wire to energize the relay.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html Jump the connector for the fuel pump to ground and the relay should energize.

 

[Aleksfoxtrot]

The computer switches the ground to the relay if you put battery posative to that wire you may have fried the computer. To switch the fuel pump manually on the test connector for the computer there is a fuel pump wire all you do is switch engine ground to that wire to energize the relay.

I didn't put power to that wire power is coming through it all by itself. So there's a short.
Question does the computer need to read that the relay received ground and the circuit is closed (through test pin 22) and that the pump is running (test pin 19) in order for the computer to fire the injectors on an eec 4 system?

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=29871.0

 

[Aleksfoxtrot]

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-tech/66029d1239107903-1987-mustang-302-wiring-please-help-88-91_5.0_eec_wiring_diagram.gif

 

[Aleksfoxtrot]

Welp not to sound like an idiot but the ground wire from the battery to the computer was unplugged causing the voltage back feed. That was what was throwing me off! When I saw a plug hanging down there loose I plugged it in and felt like an idiot! Lol

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Glad you found the problem and posted your solution.

Richard