Cro-mo D35 outer axles...

[Dishtowel]

does anyone have a link that goes into the joint clearance in the beam window and how to improve it?

I did my passenger beam with a die grinder. Used the jack/loader to flex the truck then used a marker to mark what I wanted removed. Trial and error.

 

[kevinsranger]

I did my passenger beam with a die grinder. Used the jack/loader to flex the truck then used a marker to mark what I wanted removed. Trial and error.

do you have any pics or anything? i know im asking alot but i gotta say, i am completely ignorant to this, this is the first i ever heard of this problem and im 100% sure of what the beam window is lol. i know when i climb hills, i hear a grinding, (with the wheels straight) and i blamed it on the auto hubs, well now i got the jeep warn hubs and the other day i heard a small amount of grinding so i dont know what to look at now.

 

[Dishtowel]

do you have any pics or anything? i know im asking alot but i gotta say, i am completely ignorant to this, this is the first i ever heard of this problem and im 100% sure of what the beam window is lol. i know when i climb hills, i hear a grinding, (with the wheels straight) and i blamed it on the auto hubs, well now i got the jeep warn hubs and the other day i heard a small amount of grinding so i dont know what to look at now.

huh, grinding with the wheels straight hey? IDK if your problem is beam window. Perhaps something with your front driveshaft?

On the passenger beam there is a 'window' where the axle shaft enters it. The shaft can hit the bottom of the window and collide with the beam material when flexing and you have more than stock wheel travel available. I believe the problem scenario is when the drivers tire is at max stuff (passenger at max droop). I could be wrong, lol, 50-50 chance.

 

[kevinsranger]

huh, grinding with the wheels straight hey? IDK if your problem is beam window. Perhaps something with your front driveshaft?

On the passenger beam there is a 'window' where the axle shaft enters it. The shaft can hit the bottom of the window and collide with the beam material when flexing and you have more than stock wheel travel available. I believe the problem scenario is when the drivers tire is at max stuff (passenger at max droop). I could be wrong, lol, 50-50 chance.

yea i will have to check that out, i know what you mean by window now thanks, but i guess i gotta check my driveshaft, it does sound like its coming from the drivers side anyway.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, the shaft can hit the beam's window (also the radius arm bolts inside the beam) when the suspension is fully articulated in either direction, and has the potential to cause some pretty catastrophic damage if left unchecked (broken shafts/u-joints/egged yokes, even busted diff housings).

There'll probably be a rub mark on the shaft if it's hitting.

 

[AllanD]

THE killer of outer stubs is corrosion that creates pitting that contributes
to metal fatigue and failure of the U-joint "ears"

when assembing my D35 front end I managed to score a pair
of NEW factory outers.

I decided to go to great lengths to protect the new ones.
I first soaked them in a phosphate conversion solution.
then after a air drying period I put them into a 400degree
oven for a week, mostly to bake the surplus hydrogen (from the acid)
out of the metal.

after that I painted them, with a zinc bearing primer and coated
them with white epoxy enamel, before finally finishing them off
with a coat of ford grey engine enamel

If the shafts distort to any degree the grey paint will crack exposing the underlaying white epoxy or the green zinc chromate that can be found under that.

Call it an exercise in turd polishing.

AD

 

[compleckz]

then after a air drying period I put them into a 400degree
oven for a week,

Call it an exercise in turd polishing.

holy crap...