Cro-mo D35 outer axles...

[BLOODBANE]

Sorry if this is a repost, but have you guys seen these yet?.....
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-82089_chrome_moly_outer_axle__dana_35_ifs.htm Now if someone will come up with an inner and a super strong joint.

 

[rickcdewitt]

hey that is cool,especially compared to dealer prices.

 

[CopyKat]

I sent a PM to junkie a couple days ago. He said the picture didn't look right and was going to inqire more info on it. I remember seeing a D44 TTB outer stub in Chromo too. I thought it was on JBG site too but I can't find it again.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, I never got around to calling them yet.

The outer stub is theoretically the weakest shaft on the D35, so having just the chromo stubs alone would yield some strength gain (probably putting it on par with running the D44 knuckles swap). The price seems a bit out of line with the rest of their offerings though (I'd pay that amount if I knew it was made by Superior Axle or Alloy USA, although the cut splines on it say otherwise).

 

[Evan]

Yeah, I never got around to calling them yet.

The outer stub is theoretically the weakest shaft on the D35, so having just the chromo stubs alone would yield some strength gain (probably putting it on par with running the D44 knuckles swap). The price seems a bit out of line with the rest of their offerings though (I'd pay that amount if I knew it was made by Superior Axle or Alloy USA, although the cut splines on it say otherwise).

Are there a lot of people who have actually snapped an outer stub? The hub or joint seems to fail first. I don't know how good of an investment a chromo outer would be for the 35. If you ran those with 760s and Jeep hubs you'd risk moving the weak point inside the diff or to a more expensive shaft. For what you'd pay for these chromos, you could buy a box of stubs at the yard.

 

[mjonesjr]

I'd sure pay that for those.

The inner shaft doesnt take the abuse the outer shafts do.

 

[Evan]

I'd sure pay that for those.

The inner shaft doesnt take the abuse the outer shafts do.

So you have snapped a bunch of outers then? What size tires do you run?

 

[mjonesjr]

I myself havent, but I have seen them snapped while running anything from a 31 to a 38.

 

[Will]

There are so many neglected axles that snap on pretty mild trucks that I pay no heed to snapped TTB joints. Most axles I've bought and disassembled were absolutely rotten with rust. Some, I was not able to disassemble at all. When a kid buys a 15-25 year-old truck and busts an axle I assume it was rotten. When I busted mine, both times I traced the problem and fixed it. I guess three times. But it was always correctable. Would a super-secret outer prevent a binding axle yoke from snapping the joint?

I have busted three joints/yokes, torn an axle beam and a heavy old-stlye James Duff radius arm. But except for the Duff arm, my autopsy revealed me to be the culprit. I'm not getting rid of my D35 because I feel I have perfected it for my needs; and I'm not buying an aftermarket piece for it because I don't think it needs it. If I upgrade it will be with a D60.

 

[Dishtowel]

The inner shaft doesnt take the abuse the outer shafts do.

Um, you must know something I dont. Cause as far as I knew the power just gets transmitted through all the shaft/u-joints/splines/hubs to the tires..... So if your tire is seeing that power then every component all the way back to the engine is seeing that power. (With the exception on insurmountable losses due to bearings, ect.)

UNLESS i'm unaware of some loading that ONLY the outer shafts experience...

 

[Dusty_Ranger]

chromoly inner and outer with a spicer joint would be pretty sweet

 

[Evan]

Um, you must know something I dont. Cause as far as I knew the power just gets transmitted through all the shaft/u-joints/splines/hubs to the tires..... So if your tire is seeing that power then every component all the way back to the engine is seeing that power. (With the exception on insurmountable losses due to bearings, ect.)

UNLESS i'm unaware of some loading that ONLY the outer shafts experience...

The inner joint sees much less stress because it isn't subjected to severe operating angles like the outer joints are.

 

[KELLY88]

Why is it labeled as Dana 35 IFS instead of TTB?

 

[mjonesjr]

The TTB is a form of IFS. If each side can travel independantly of the other side, then it is an independent front suspension.

 

[KELLY88]

The TTB is a form of IFS. If each side can travel independantly of the other side, then it is an independent front suspension.

Oh alright. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[4x4junkie]

Are there a lot of people who have actually snapped an outer stub? The hub or joint seems to fail first. I don't know how good of an investment a chromo outer would be for the 35. If you ran those with 760s and Jeep hubs you'd risk moving the weak point inside the diff or to a more expensive shaft. For what you'd pay for these chromos, you could buy a box of stubs at the yard.

I say theoretically because the stub has the smallest diameter of any part of the D35 shaft (1.062" within the c-clip groove). It's true there are other areas on the D35 you'll likely see a failure before the stub though (unless upgraded).

Running the 760s with welded caps/circle clips generally eliminates the joint as a weak spot (provided the shaft isn't also binding within the beam window with flex, or binding at the u-joint yokes). With the Jeep hubs also being far stronger than the stockers, that 1.062" part of the shaft starts to see a fair bit of load.
But I've also seen testing done on 4340 D44 shafts that demonstrates they weren't much over 15% or so stronger than stock shafts (and the tiresize recommendations you commonly see for stock vs. chromo'ed D44s seems to reflect this). I can't say how well that translates over to the 27 spline stuff (which would include D30s). With junkyard shafts as cheap as they are, it definitely helps reinforce the argument against chromos.

The D35 diff & gears are pretty sturdy though, I don't see much reason to worry about moving the weak point there unless maybe you had full-chromos of high quality (even on the problematic Jeep rear D35s, the numbers for broken shafts easily overwhelms any numbers for broken R&Ps).

 

[Dishtowel]

The inner joint sees much less stress because it isn't subjected to severe operating angles like the outer joints are.

As far as I know, this should not matter. Torsion is torsion is torsion. These shafts are never supposed to see bending loads, so torsion is the only stress on the table.

I say theoretically because the stub has the smallest diameter of any part of the D35 shaft (1.062" within the c-clip groove). It's true there are other areas on the D35 you'll likely see a failure before the stub though (unless upgraded).

Bingo. Thats the info I was looking for. I dont know these things yet like some of the vet's around here. Smaller dia due to the c-clip groove is defiantly a point of interest. A c-clip groove is a stress concentrator. They can amplify the existing stress in the shaft up to 2.5 times it's original value at the groove. Although a well designed one will only be about 1.7

 

[kevinsranger]

does anyone have a link that goes into the joint clearance in the beam window and how to improve it?

 

[mjonesjr]

As far as I know, this should not matter. Torsion is torsion is torsion. These shafts are never supposed to see bending loads, so torsion is the only stress on the table.

Torsion? I think you mean torque.

And the angles of the shaft with a torque load on it will matter. If the u-joint is binding, the weaker one will break when torque is applied; seems to always be the outter TTB stub shaft.

 

[Dishtowel]

Torsion? I think you mean torque.

And the angles of the shaft with a torque load on it will matter. If the u-joint is binding, the weaker one will break when torque is applied; seems to always be the outter TTB stub shaft.

Torsion = torque, sry. Torque is a force, torsion is what the shaft experiences. (IIRC) But whateve', for this discussion they may as well mean the same thing. If the u-joint is binding of course something is going to break. I think that is kind of an irrelevant point. If the u-joint is binding the problem is not the driveshaft/axle. The problem is with the geometry, the placement of the shaft or the size of the u-joint.

When you break it down there is only 3 types of stress (due to physical loading) in a material.
Tension/compression, shear, and torsion. If the shaft&housing geometry is within it's constraints this shaft only see's Torque, resulting in internal torsion and shear. There should be no tension/compression. This, coupled with the fact that the outer shaft has a c-clip groove being a stress concentrator, highlights where it is most likely to fail. THIS is why I think the outer shaft is being pointed out as a problem. (Based on what I have learned thusfar. Not trying to be a dink)