EB Dana 44 solid axle swap

[TEK4x4]

hey guys so as you can see im getting ready to do a sas but the axle i got came with nothing i just got the houseing. i just picked up a welded carrier ring and pinion with 5:13 gears. read up on the disk brake swap so i will invest in that but thats another story anyways i was wondering if i can take the radious arms and coil buckets off say an f150 of the same year and make them work. i plan on making extended radious arms any ways i just need the "C" part that hooks to the axle and the part the bottom coil mount bolts on. just looking for ideas and things you guys would do. any help or suggests would be apprishiated. also how big of coils should i buy if i want to run 35's? 5.5inch eb lift springs? :icon_confused:

 

[RangerSVT]

3.5" springs will work, dependin on what and how your setting it up for...Check out Bones build thread, I can't remember what brand they were, but you can get just the C's both sides without the arms to make your own. Any solid axle 44 with rad arms will fit, not just that year. Knuckles are not interchangeable between 44TTB and 44 SA, but you can use the hubs as they are the same, and IIRC the spindles are the same as well. The rotors will work, but you will need solid axle disc brake brackets and calipers. Hope this helps, take plenty of pics and welcom to TRS :icon_thumby:
SVT

 

[Boggin]

the spindles arent the same. just the hub and stub shaft and rotor.

 

[TEK4x4]

sweet thank RangerSVT and im making it my wheeler obviously but i want to be able to show it off kinda to by rollin around town back and forth to the trails and what not, but 90% of the time it will see trail. thats why i am going with 5:13's (also cause i scored a new set for a hundred bucks :icon_twisted i want to get crazy flex to if i can i know coil overs and 4-link would be the best but seein how im trying to finish college.... not happening right not. i guess im just gettin to ancy but back to on topic i was told by the local off road shop one time how to do the disc break conversion so ill go ask them again. they also said something about needing eb inner shafts but then i need to use some outer shafts from an f150 or something so the u joints will be bigger or so its stronger or something?? have you guys herd of any of this? i will try to go up there this week and figure it all out and let you know what they say but i was just wondering if anyone has herd of what im trying to talking about? one more thing how do i find peoples build threads again?

 

[RangerSVT]

EB 44's came stock with a 260 style u-joint, the upgraded axles use a 297 style joint, but a futher upgrade is a 760 joint ( which is a stronger bolt in replacement to the 297) www.Broncograveyard.com has the complete 6 piece 4340 axleshaft kit for $295 with lifetime warranty (We just got a set for a 44 we are building for Jay's truck) It comes with both inners and both outers and two spicer 5-760x joints...The best deal on the internet for shafts for the EB 44...
SVT

 

[TEK4x4]

Hey guys sorry I have been out of the loop for awhile but I got the front eb axle complete. I am running 5.13s with a spartan locker 3/4 ton axle shafts and the chevy disk brake conversion. I did the dana 50 ttb yoke upgrade this where I have a question. What are people running for drive lines? And can I change the yoke on the transfercase to something larger so I can have a larger u-joint up there? If not what are people normaly running with standard 44 yokes? Oh by the way im running 37x14.00 iroks. That and the locker are the reason im trying to make everything as strong as I can. Any help would be awesome only have 3 weeks until a big off road event im support to go to so im trying to get things all put together. Thanks ill try to post pics soon.

 

[Shran]

I assume you have a 1350 t-case? There are various rear output yokes/flanges available depending on the year of donor vehicle. Most I have seen are either a 1210? u-bolt style yoke, or a bolt on companion flange style. I have no idea what your choices are for front output, but I would guess that you are limited to what you have now. You might be able to build a slip yoke eliminator. Seems to me that the front driveline used a 1310 u-joint though, which is plenty large for your application, and consequently is also the same size as a D44 (solid axle) yoke.

When I had an EB axle and a 1350 t-case, I just lengthened my factory front driveline about 1.5" and ground out between the ears on both ends for more clearance. Worked pretty well.

 

[TEK4x4]

I think I have a 1354 manual case ill check in a bit when I go out to finish building my rear axle.

 

[The Mud Addict]

If you have a slip yoke front output it is a 1350, if is got a flange it is a 1354:icon_welder:

 

[TEK4x4]

It has a slip yoke so its a 1350 anyone know if i can get a slip yoke with a bigger u joint on the end?

 

[Shran]

I highly doubt it. Only thing I would suggest is looking at other t-cases in the junkyard to see if you can find one with a larger u-joint and a slip yoke with the same spline pattern but that may be difficult/impossible. I think the joint you have now is plenty big for what your truck.

 

[TEK4x4]

ok cool thanks:icon_thumby: ill probably just have my drive lines lengthened then and my rear flange changed to a yoke type. so update i finished my rear dana 44 axle finally all set up with locket and gears new brakes and bearings. just got 40 feet of 1 3/4 .120 wall tube for sliders 10 feet 2 inch .120 for my custom radius arms and 10 feet of 1 1/2 .25 wall d.o.m for my steering and track bar. i finished my center link of my steering with 1 1/2 .25 chromaly i picked up from a buddy for $20 bucks and picked up my johnny joints and bungs for my radius arms yesterday and this sunday im suppost to installs and bend everything at a buddys house and get every thing made. cant wait! im trying to upload photos for everyone but apparently the files are to large and im not sure how do make them work. ill play with it some more and try to get it uploaded.

 

[TEK4x4]

locker*

 

[TEK4x4]

 

[TEK4x4]

ok guys sorry been away for awhile but im back and the rig is done! rear dana 44 out of a scout 2 and a dana 44 out of an early bronco. both are stuffed with 5:13 gears and are locked. rear carrier is just welded the front is i believe a spartan locker. i did the chevy/ford disk brake conversion and the chevy 3/4 ton axle shaft upgrade. i used chevy steering knuckles because your center link for steering is over the top not under for added clearance. the steering is gm 1 ton. The radius arms are one off design by my good friend that helped me in the build. there are two johnny joints and a chevy leaf spring bushing per side attached to the factory "c" bushing part of the factory radius arms. the caster is fully adjustable this way and has flex is amazing. custom shock mounts and hoop because of new radius arms had to move the shock in front of the spring. the coil buckets on the bottom were redesigned so the spring can never pop out and adds strength. i used the factory bucket on top to support the 5 1/2 eb progressive coils from james duff. the front drive line is an explorer drive line i cut sleeved and re welded, and is holding amazingly. the rear drive line is actually the front drive line out of and 05 f150. the only mod i had to do is cut 3/4 of an inch off the splines for full compression of the rear axle. the transfer case was changed to a 1354 for the front drive line to work. the rear leaf packs are actually a combination i came up with that is just a lucky trial and error incident. the main leaf is the factory bii then i had a new 4 inc leaf pack for a jeep wrangler with an axle over. well this is to small from bushing to bushing, sooooo i cut the eyelets off and used 4 of the leafs i believe and added them to the f700 leafs in this pack that helps not squat as much but still maintain flexibility. i still used the shackles from my last lift i made which i believe are a 7 inches long from center to center. the rear shock mounts are custom also, with both shock in the front angled in towards the center attached to the bar i ran over the frame rails and attached to each side using 3 bolts. ill try to get some pics posted but my computer is being dumb. if you have any questions let me know. been wheeling 4 times with this set up now re did my track bar mount and some other stuff already but nothing major after my first hard test run. thanks for all the advice im here to help in any way i can so others can enjoy also.

 

[TEK4x4]

oh ya engine cross member is all custom to... kinda got a little plass happy haha:icon_welder: had to redo the hole thing which turned out best for my track bar mount. so i have a few pics but not all cant find them all right now if there are anything u want to look at specificly let me know i can go take a pic of it. fist on on the left is the first day i finished it. second a wheelen trip we did third track bar mount frame side v 2.0 haha and the last is just a pic i took last monday after a sweet creek crossing that swallowed my 37s at one point haha