EFI problems.....?

[bobbywalter]

:icon_confused: were those the codes you retrieved?


air charge temperature? i dont remember any charge air pressure sensor on a vic?

that temperature sensor will be in the filter box on many, it is on the manifold for some(all ho)...it will need to know that one to help with proper fueling.


bp? you have direct vacuum to the map sensor? if by some chance you have a check valve inline or a restrictor slowly bleeding off/on?

you should have just map on this application and no bp, it takes bp when it powers up for reference.

 

[Dishtowel]

:icon_confused: were those the codes you retrieved?

air charge temperature? i dont remember any charge air pressure sensor on a vic?

that temperature sensor will be in the filter box on many, it is on the manifold for some(all ho)...it will need to know that one to help with proper fueling.

bp? you have direct vacuum to the map sensor? if by some chance you have a check valve inline or a restrictor slowly bleeding off/on?

you should have just map on this application and no bp, it takes bp when it powers up for reference.

They are sensors that are talked about in the Ford published service manuals that are supposed to be on this car/engine.

As I understand it, SpeedDensity makes it decisions based on the SPEED of the engine, (volume of air) and the DENSITY of the air in the atmosphere. To solve for density it needs pressure and temperature. Those two sensors are responsible for giving that information to the engine.

It may solve for density by using the ManifoldAirPressure sensor. I dont know. I dont know enough about the inner workings of this computer. It's all just math, but WHAT variables are used! argh.

 

[1989GT]

This looks to be a closed loop issue. Now the question is, is it a sensor, the wiring or the EEC. Seeing that you transplanted the wiring from a donor car, you could have a broken wire someplace. Any luck with codes?

 

[Dishtowel]

AirChargePressure = ACP

BarrometicPressure = BP sensor

I dont know if I have these installed. I dont recall them. Where do they normally live in relation to the engine??

Could I even run I didn't have them?

When I said ACP i ment ACT, AirChargeTemp. Goes into the air routeing on the lower intake manifold, driverside front-ish.
Apparently BP sensor is for California emissions only.

buying a fuel pressure gauge is what you want to do with obd1, not a stupid base tester imo as the money spent on the fuel pressure gauge is better spent, where base code retrival is free.

Check your fuel pressure also we had problems similar to that and fuel filter and fuel tank was gummed up. Fuel pressure would gradually fall off you need between 35 and 45 pounds of pressure.

FUEL PRESSURE for the win! The $5000 code reader my neighbor has told us nothing. gave me code 11 = system pass, and code 85 = something to do with emmisions BS. The carbon can was open or something erroneous. All systems checked out, and gave proper readings, just as I knew they would, because I had tested them all on the bench. Everything electrical performed just as anticipated. I remain skeptical of the code reader system.

What should fuel pressure be? lol. 40 psi correct? Well mine is 110!!!!!!

This MIGHT lead to overfueling eh?

I'm blaming the regulator. We took the return line off and pressured up the fuel system and NOTHING CAME OUT. The only way out of the fuel rail is INTO the engine. um, problem. New regulator tomorrow!

 

[stranger]

bap on s/d needs vac and becomes map.if maf bap sensor must be hooked up electricly and not to vac,just to air
iat(act) is in the #5 intake runner on obdI systems.it can work fine in airbox and intake tube though.
is timing advancing,is spout hooked up and working?is coolant sensor hooked up?

 

[Dishtowel]

bap on s/d needs vac and becomes map.if maf bap sensor must be hooked up electricly and not to vac,just to air
iat(act) is in the #5 intake runner on obdI systems.it can work fine in airbox and intake tube though.
is timing advancing,is spout hooked up and working?is coolant sensor hooked up?

Thanks for your input! Although I find it hard to read, thanks.

BAP becomes MAP, that makes sense. I have my MAP sensor hooked to manifold vacume and plugged in. It passed test on the bench and works properly.

ALL my sensors passed bench testing. Thats what was so frustrating.

Yes the ACT sensor is on the cylinder 5 runner on the lower manifold.

Timeing is advaced 10deg, SPOUT and all ingition wiring checks out and appears to being working properly.

Engine coolant temp sensor passes bench test and running testing, and is hooked up. Conveniently I have a spare that was a sending unit for the electric gauge in the TownCar.

O2 sensors also check out, the are about 0.05 volts different. But I dont consider that a problem.

NEW FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR GOING ON TONIGHT!!!! wootwoot!! Then the VROOOMAGE!!!

 

[Psychopete]

I believe what he is indicating is that the MAP sensor is the BAP, and if it were switched over to a MAF PCM, you would essentially want to keep the MAP installed and plugged in electrically, but you could remove the vacuum. This is exactly how my 2.9L is setup right now with MAF conversion. I tried to remove it entirely, but it wasn't too happy about that.

Pete

 

[Dishtowel]

I believe what he is indicating is that the MAP sensor is the BAP, and if it were switched over to a MAF PCM, you would essentially want to keep the MAP installed and plugged in electrically, but you could remove the vacuum. This is exactly how my 2.9L is setup right now with MAF conversion. I tried to remove it entirely, but it wasn't too happy about that.

Pete

Gotch'a

I tried to remove it entirely, but it wasn't too happy about that.

lol

 

[bottledgt]

uh yeah...110 psi is slightly not good for anything you should be at 36-38,and map and bap are the same part. it just depends on whether the hose is on it or not

 

[stranger]

Timeing is advaced 10deg, SPOUT and all ingition wiring checks out and appears to being working properly.

monitor timming,what is it cold?what is it hot? after its running like crap.leave spout connected and report back it should be about 22-26 cold and 16-20 warm. with a non spout base idle of 12-14 btdc

ps check low oil sensor and low coolant sensor just for kicks these can cause warm issues but usually shut down the system ,not limp it

 

[Dishtowel]

SUCCESS!!!
I WIN GREMLIN BETCHES!!​

New fuel pressure regulator and new sparky plugs, dialed in the timeing, adjusted the idle screw 1 turn and VOILA It runs straighter than a 16teen year old boy in at a Victoria's Secret fashion show.

(idont know if that really makes sense, i just wanted to emphasize something.)

I AM PLEASED, f_ck pleased, I am Exstatic

THANK YOU ALL for you input, help, and enthusiasm. I appreciate it. I hope I can return the favor.

 

[bobbywalter]

yeah....efi or carb.....you were fawked on this one...glad your on with it...




its the little things....hard to fix a car from the interweb....

 

[rangerslim]

good to hear bud...............now get it on the road!!!

 

[v-8power]

Congrats. How does it Drive?

 

[Dishtowel]

It drives good, I am very happy with it!!

http://video.cardomain.com/Clip.aspx?key=A790890D2C48474E

Now I just have to put the fans on the front, rig the sender unit for the fans, rig the washer fuild jug, swap in the D35, and build a new grill! lol

 

[bottledgt]

id go ahead and change that oil real fast. probably got a lot of gas in it

 

[superrocker10]

do you have your MAF hooked up?

 

[Totalled]

No maf on a SD engine...

 

[Dishtowel]

It drives around, so, I feel that I have beat the EFI gremlin.

Now the goal is to go wheeling this upcoming weekend. For that to come true I have some things to do:
-Reinstall T-case shifter
-Install electric fans and control modual
-Plug some holes in the firewall
-Cover up the in-cab air holes in the firewall, as I do not have my ducting re-installed (or modified to fit)
-Replace some winch wireing
-Tupperware my EEC
-Most importantly, Swap in my D35, (my D28 is BROKEN)
-Also, I would like to re-enforce the frame where I cut it abit for exhaust clearance

I estimate all that to be around 16-18 hours of work If I can stay on task. (That is my biggest problem, staying on task) That means MINIMUM 3.5 hrs per night in the shop. Things are crazy at work lately to, it's gonna be a tight week.