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fm146 to m5od swap help.


eliaslear

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I've got an 89 bronco ii with a screwed fm146. of course i always wanted to to the mazda swap but couldn't justify it as my mitsu was in running condition. so recently the input shaft broke. don't ask me how. so i shopped around at local yards and found a m5od from a 1998 b3000. well after doing so much research i guess i overlooked that the 3.0 had a different bellhousing. at least on 98 and up. i bought the trans cause it only had about 50,00 miles on it and the shift rail plugs were bone dry and still in great shape. so i got home and noticed that the bolt patterns were off all around. of course the junk yard won't take it back now because it's no thier problem. my questions is: can i take the internals from this 98 m5od and put them in an older 4.0 or 2.9 case so i can hook it back up to my 2.9? the trans is from a 4x4 but i let them keep the transfer case and want to use my dummy case.
 


adsm08

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Yes, the internals are all the same between the various engines. Close enough anyway that if you take everything, you won't have any issues.
 

eliaslear

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wow that was fast. and from you directly. ok so i'm new to this type of thing. i build honda engines all day long but that's a pretty simple thing to do with plenty of plasitgauge. especially after you've done it one. but when a trans starts grinding i throw a $75 u-pull-it back in there. never cracked a trans open before. can you give me a quick run through of the process or maybe something in depth if you've the time? i have the ofiicial truck shop manual but sometimes they skip over the important advise. are there any clearances i need to worry about? is it ok to reuse the seals as long as they come out in one piece still round? anything that commonly breaks that i should go ahead and plan for? any special tools? thank again for the quick reply. the only reason i don't just get another one is because of the low mileage this one has on it. and at $250 it was a great deal.
 

mk42gunner

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There is an article in the tech library that will give you the basics; along with your manual you should be okay.

New seals are cheap insurance against leaks. I would recommend getting a new oil slinger, they are rather fragile.

Robert
 

eliaslear

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well thank you everybody. i tried search but couldn't find one that told how to just completely remove the shafts rather how to remove everything off around them them remove them to rebuild everything. seems like too much work for me anyway and i didn't need to rebuild just to swap internals. i don't want to mess anything up. the junkyard agreed to swap with me for a 4.0 m5od from a ranger 2wd. so i guess my only problem now is since this one has a 2wd tail housing, which drive shaft should i use. i did a search and only saw that it said now a conventional one peice with u joints can be used but wasn't clear on which one out of which vehicle. i'm assuming it's from a 2wd ranger? just to clarify i have a bronco ii going from an fm146 with dummy case and cv style shaft to a m5od with 2wd housing. thanks for the help again and sorry i couldn't find it myself using the search button.

EDIT: i found this http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248249 it's a complete rebuild of the M5OD R1 or M5R1 depending on what you want to call it. it's a little more detailed than the ones we have here.
 
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adsm08

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They are actually pretty simple to rebuild. The big nut is a bastard without the tool. The main shaft is not fun to get in and out either.

If they will just swap you straight up, cool.

For the drive shaft, well, uhh, a Ranger drive shaft will be far too long.`I'm not really sure exactly what you would use for a drive shaft.
 

eliaslear

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ok i did find this http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71203&highlight=driveshaft+m5od+swap but i see that it's a ranger and i'm not sure of the wheel base i need it from or year. so should i just get it from an 98+ short wheel base ranger? as biis will have the dummy transfer case? i'm just trying to make sure before i go spending more money at the junk yard just to have them tell me i can't return it cause there's nothing wrong with it.
 

adsm08

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Yeah, a short wheel base (all reg cabs had 1-piece shafts) would be the best bet. It might still have to get cut down a hair.
 

eliaslear

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would that need to be done at a shop? as in a section taken from the middle or just some off the input end? sorry i sound so stupid about this. never really done suspension except for car struts and springs. usually i stick to fwd as that's what i'm used to.
 

eliaslear

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okay so i found a drive shaft at the junkyard. it's a two piece from a 94 ranger extended cab. i found a one piece but did not like the huge balance thing by the yoke. the one piece yoke is about an inch longer but that's not enough to make me worry as i drive this only on the road for trips to the beach with the family. so the drive shaft shop will use the yoke and flange yoke. the only problem with this is anything after 89 comes with the big flange bolt pattern. my bronco ii has the small bolt pattern. so i returned to the junk yard and got the axle flange from the 94 ranger. bolted right on my axle nice and snug. i did not replace the crush gasket or put a sleeve on the flange as the surface was smooth (the ranger only had about 40,000 on it, totaled). i did however replace the seal. time will tell if i tightened the nut right without messing the old crush gasket up. i also grabbed the speedometer cable as mine was too long. it fits perfect. the spring shop will have the drive shaft done tomorrow. they're going to use the ends with a new piece of tubing. they will not join two. and the longer shaft is about 4 inches too short. btw the total length with the old flange is 41 3/4 from spline to flange or 42 1/4 from housing to flange. the new flange sticks out a little further. i will get the measurements for that tomorrow for anyone doing this same swap.
 
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