help with alternator convertion

[necessaryevil]

so in the quest for more power i am converting my internal regulated alternator(87 b2)to a external regulated alternator. so i went down to the junk yard and grabbed a alternator and the voltage regulator and on the voltage regulator there is four wires or/lt bl, wht/blk, yel, and lt gn/red. and after doing some digging have found the or/lt bl is the field control and goes to the orange plug on the alternator, yellow goes to the battery pos, and the wht/blk is the stator control that goes to the black plug on the alternator but cant figure out where the lt gn/red goes. has any one else done this or can some one point me in the right direction?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

lt grn/red goes to key on from the regulator
blk/orange alternator to battery with fuseable link
orange/lt blu (field) alt regulator
yellow/ white regulator battery (radio capacitor)on reg side
wht/blk alternator regulator (stator) not used on mine but might be needed for computer
I would guess you use the charging system test procedures in the tech library for the external regulator for proper operation

 

[Will]

I don't understand your premis, which is "In the quest for more power I am converting my internally regulated alternator to an externally regulated alternator."

I have no idea about what you are doing or where you got the idea for it--or what the vehicle is you are taking these parts from.

Read this:http://www.boatelectric.com/www.boatelectric_files/2009-BalmarProducts.pdf

 

[necessaryevil]

im doing this because the output terminals on the third gen(i think thats what its called) restrict the output amperage to less then 80amps due to the spade style connector, the guys at excessive amperage(http://www.excessiveamperage.com/) have a 250amp alternator but i need to convert my truck to the earlier second gen setup, so i pulled the alt and regulator from a '83 ranger to set everything up before the alternator gets here.

 

[necessaryevil]

if im not planning on connecting the charge lamp indicator with the older regulator do i istill have to install the 500ohm resistor along the ignition wire or can i run it with out?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Wow 250 amp thats alot of power I dont know but I would think you dont want too many volts going into the ignition coil I dont think mine has a resistor in it but with older ignitions with the aftermarket round coils you need a resistor to the coil from the ignition to drop the voltage in or you will burn up coils not sure how amps affect the ignition. Are you doing this for a winch I would guess not as long as you are not pulling that power thru the ignition system the engine will use only the power it needs hook the battery direct to the alternator and your switching separate from the engine systems. I can`t remember the formula is it volts X amps = watts as long as the volts are in the normal operating range you should be ok use a high voltage relay if your switching with the ignition that is why the headlights were always separate from the ignition on older vehicles and are on relays on newer and taking the idiot light out will disable that circuit and run a wire from the coil power red/lt grn (ignition on) to the lt grn/red on the regulator

 

[necessaryevil]

sorry i should have been more clear, i was tired when i wrote my last post. im talking about the resistor that goes inline with the charge lamp indicator on the ignition wire on the voltage regulator. and yes 250 amps is a lot but with all the lights and the stereo every amp gets eaten quick

 

[adsm08]

It should go fast with 250 amp alt.

 

[necessaryevil]

It should go fast with 250 amp alt.

the guys at excessave amperage are talking about a 15+hp draw at full load

 

[adsm08]

that's just excessive. But you should be able to kick in the after burners and super boost from you flux capacitor and gain like 1500 hp.

 

[necessaryevil]

hey adsm do you have anything constructive to add to this conversation?

 

[Totalled]

You're going backwards. Put a Ford 3G alternator in it.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=75

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I dont see a resistor on any of my schematics just a bulb between the lt grn/red from the regulator and the red/lt green on the ignition for a light and with a meter the lt grn/red from the regulator ties direct to th red/lt grn on the ignition. That is for a 87 2.3-2.9 ranger or B-II

 

[necessaryevil]

my ford shop manual shows a 500 ohm resistor parallel to the charge lamp, but my chilton dosent, i dont know what do about it.

i thought the 3g was as larger caseand i didnt want the problem with swaping mounts, that why i went with the 1g alt.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

maybe it it has something to do with the bulb itself did you look at the earlier schematics for a external regulator one with a amp meter and are you gonna add a ampmeter either way you could probably just leave the light as it is it couldn`t hurt anything. I just wonder how the idiot light works there must be a diode or switch in the regulator so when the voltage is being pulled from the battery it allows a ground to the light and when it is pushing volts into it it turns the ground off I dunno.

 

[necessaryevil]

imma try without it, what the worse that can happen, i burn up some parts? oh no please dont give me an excuse to go to the jusk yard!! ill keep you guys posted

 

[kimcrwbr1]

yea if you just make sure you have the lt grn/red regulator connected to the red/lt green ignition switch I think you will be fine thats how mine is and I have the external regulator. I`m not sure how the amp guages today work But you used to just run two heavy guage wires to the start solenoid and run the wires to the ignition through the amp guage they have a built in shunt. GL