horrible

[FRENCHMan]

since two days the truck is very large grinding.
I can not for the moment to figure out where this noise.
but it is really a horror truck creaks as if he had toothache.
a sure thing this noise coming from the front of truck

I wonder if it could not happen by this thing

http://imagik.fr

your help well come

thank you very much

 

[BlackBII]

Well MR FRENCH, It looks like your radius arm bushing needs to be replaced. That looks like the passenger side, which has the exhaust running right next to it. There should be a metal shield around the bushing that protects it from the heat. If it's not there, those bushings can get hott and soft and then wear out.

Does this noise only happen when hitting the brakes or going over bumps? Or is the noise always happening?

 

[FRENCHMan]

Well MR FRENCH, It looks like your radius arm bushing needs to be replaced. That looks like the passenger side, which has the exhaust running right next to it. There should be a metal shield around the bushing that protects it from the heat. If it's not there, those bushings can get hott and soft and then wear out.

Does this noise only happen when hitting the brakes or going over bumps? Or is the noise always happening?

Thank you very much MR BlackBII
I put the truck on a bridge for look
what you see on the picture and certainly the cause, silenblocs both sides were many games on them.
So I need to replace both sides.

As I understand it.
I must dismantles all I see on your picture.
It is as MR BlackBII
damn is a job that I think can not do myself.
It looks really hard to do

 

[BlackBII]

Yeah, you need to take the front suspension apart. Unbolt the shock, tie-rod and sway bar, and the axle will drop far enough to get the spring out. Then, you can pull the axle forward just enough to get the radius arm out and replace the bushing.

It's not that hard, you'll need basic tools, sockets, ratchet, extension, floor jack, etc

 

[FRENCHMan]

Still need help.

:icon_confused: Please, Could you tell me if this is correct.Radius Arm Bushing ,

http://imagik.fr

and the best quality is rubber or Polyurethane, and could you give me a link for purchase of this kit i don't see for the price lower than of $ 90

Thank you very much for your help

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[bobbywalter]

sometimes the radius arm bracket will be beat to death as well

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQFordQQRangerQQMoogQQRadius_Arm_BracketQQ19891997QQMOK8778.html




they can be intimidating for the uninitiated, as the rivots are potentially difficult to remove for guys not used to grinding on stuff and being all around destructive apes.


a grinder with a cut off wheel and a 2 pound hammer with a 3/8 in or 11 mm drift makes quick work of them, but carries some inherent danger.

takes me about 10 min a side taking it easy these days.


even if your bracket hole is in good shape and they are both useable, if you go ahead and make both sides removable it makes the whole job much easier too... you dont even take the tires off.

 

[TexCaliBII]

Sir,
This is where I buy all my suspension items from and have replaced those bushings on many trucks, yeah it's a pain but is doable and you don't have to mess with brakes and it gives you a chance to clean out the goo that gets into the springs..... Good luck!

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Ford+Explorer+4WD+1994

bobbywalter, Why did I never think to make mine removable????? After I put in the lift kit I thought wow that'll make replacing those really easy in the future......

 

[snoranger]

and the best quality is rubber or Polyurethane

Thats a loaded question Mr FRENCHMan.

Poly: tighter, transmits more vibrations, lasts longer.

Rubber: softer, less vibration transmitted to chassis, lasted you this long already.

If you want a tighter, better handling truck go with poly everywhere.

If you were happy with it before, go with rubber.

 

[FRENCHMan]

:icon_thumby::icon_thumby: Thank you all for explanations.
I think that parts is correct for my truck..

http://imagik.fr

And Moog part are Good quality
Do you agree with me, Thank you very much

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

yes, moog are very good quality and carry a lifetime warranty.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

MOOG=Good stuff!!!

 

[FRENCHMan]

sometimes the radius arm bracket will be beat to death as well

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQFordQQRangerQQMoogQQRadius_Arm_BracketQQ19891997QQMOK8778.html




they can be intimidating for the uninitiated, as the rivots are potentially difficult to remove for guys not used to grinding on stuff and being all around destructive apes.


a grinder with a cut off wheel and a 2 pound hammer with a 3/8 in or 11 mm drift makes quick work of them, but carries some inherent danger.

takes me about 10 min a side taking it easy these days.


even if your bracket hole is in good shape and they are both useable, if you go ahead and make both sides removable it makes the whole job much easier too... you dont even take the tires off.

:sad:excuse me I do not quite understand your explanation.
want to explain that it is better to change as "Radius Arm Bracket Radius Arm Bushing and" I do not quite understand why so replace "Radius Arm Bracket" after an inspection this part seem in very good condition.
So please explain what interest replace in more this part
Thank you very much for your explanation and sorry if my English is bad

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[FRENCHMan]

Thats a loaded question Mr FRENCHMan.

Poly: tighter, transmits more vibrations, lasts longer.

Rubber: softer, less vibration transmitted to chassis, lasted you this long already.

If you want a tighter, better handling truck go with poly everywhere.

If you were happy with it before, go with rubber.

:icon_thumby: My truck is the year 1994 with a very complete Maintenance Manual
it "Radius Arm Bushin" are from the construction of the truck original
They are rubber.
but now with new technology I asked whether the polyurethane is a better guarantee of quality and durability

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

:sad:excuse me I do not quite understand your explanation.
want to explain that it is better to change as "Radius Arm Bracket Radius Arm Bushing and" I do not quite understand why so replace "Radius Arm Bracket" after an inspection this part seem in very good condition.
So please explain what interest replace in more this part
Thank you very much for your explanation and sorry if my English is bad

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

What Bobby was getting at was that if the holes in the radius arm brackets are worn out, the brackets will need to be replaced as well. If the holes are not worn, and are still round with the lip still intact then by all means reuse them. No need to change parts that are not broken/worn out.

I run the Moog bushings in my trucks, they have not given me any issues and are lasting very well.

 

[bobbywalter]

yas sasquatch explained exactly as i meant.



and i also like moog:icon_thumby::icon_thumby:




..i think where i confused was trying to explain if you remove the rivets from your good usable brackets, and simply use bolts in place of the rivets on your bracket, you can replace the bushing components with just a 10000 pound ratchet strap to tug the beams forward and some fiddling with the punch and a pry bar. this can save some work or maybe make it worse for some....


if by chance your brackets was in bad shape you would have to do it anyway. we really need to make a video of this procedure for just these occasions.


good luck

 

[FRENCHMan]

yas sasquatch explained exactly as i meant.



and i also like moog:icon_thumby::icon_thumby:




..i think where i confused was trying to explain if you remove the rivets from your good usable brackets, and simply use bolts in place of the rivets on your bracket, you can replace the bushing components with just a 10000 pound ratchet strap to tug the beams forward and some fiddling with the punch and a pry bar. this can save some work or maybe make it worse for some....


if by chance your brackets was in bad shape you would have to do it anyway. we really need to make a video of this procedure for just these occasions.


good luck

:icon_thumby: Thank you very much Mr bobbywalter If I do that.
I do a thread with pictures.
To explain a little work to be done

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[xr75er]

when using poly bushing ensure that you put some grease on the bushing. all over the inside where it slides on the arm and the out side where the bushing contacts the cross member and the washers. If not they will squeak. first hand knowlage as I installed them on a 94 Explorer , 85 F-150 and my 86 Bronco ll. allow 8 hours as this is your first time once you do this it will be about a 4 hour job after that.

 

[FRENCHMan]

:icon_thumby: Thank you very much Mr xr75er For your advices

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[FRENCHMan]

Replace Radius Arm Bushing

Yeah, you need to take the front suspension apart. Unbolt the shock, tie-rod and sway bar, and the axle will drop far enough to get the spring out. Then, you can pull the axle forward just enough to get the radius arm out and replace the bushing.

It's not that hard, you'll need basic tools, sockets, ratchet, extension, floor jack, etc

Please,
to replace Radius Arm Bushing
i need to get out the Coil spring located in place or it is , or I can do without

I decision to replace radius arm bushing
not pierce or remove the rivets.
just Simply by pulling on the front axle
Thank you very much for your explanation and advices, or what else

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[FRENCHMan]

What Bobby was getting at was that if the holes in the radius arm brackets are worn out, the brackets will need to be replaced as well. If the holes are not worn, and are still round with the lip still intact then by all means reuse them. No need to change parts that are not broken/worn out.

I run the Moog bushings in my trucks, they have not given me any issues and are lasting very well.

:icon_thumby: Ok thank you very for your explanation Mr Sasquatch_Ryda i understand your answer


EDIT

Could you give me other explanation please
I must buy Grade 8 bolt capability in yield (stretch) or Grade 8 bolt capability in tension (failure) i think Ultimate Shear Capability of Fastener (ksi) are the best .
you are ok with me
ultimate question please.
so far I have not disconnected the arm radius
i think best bought in first Grade 8 bolt could you say what Fastener Diameter I have to take for my truck please.
It's difficult for me for read this measurement chart.

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp

Thank you very much for your explanations and advices
sorry for this inconvenience

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers: