ab_slack
New member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2011
- Messages
- 526
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 0
- Location
- New Joisey
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Vehicle
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.9L
87 Bronco II, 2.9L
I have to questions about setting the initial timing
1) When I pull the shorting bar off to remove the electronic advance, is there still anything that will affect the advance or can I be certain that all advance is removed and that adjusting for 10deg will be the correct initial timing? In other words, could a problem someplace else, like in the vacuum system mess it up? If there are other things, what do I need to watch out for?
2) I believe I am using the correct reference mark. I can clearly make out the markings on the pulley and the 10deg mark is highlighted. It is the referenced marks I have some doubt about. Below is a picture. In the picture I believe the pointy indicator at A is the correct mark, but I am puzzled by the purpose of B. Can anyone confirm I am understanding this correctly?
My reason for digging into this starts with a rough idle with a significant number of misses. This causes the B2 to fail emissisions. I found there was no EGR solenoid. Putting one in made little difference but seemed to help low end power slightly.
I went to check the initial timing out of concern that it may have been set incorrectly. With the engine warm and the shorting bar removed, the RPM dropped from around 800 to 500 and I found the 10deg mark was falling about midway between the pointer (A) and that circular item (B). I adjusted it till 10 deg aligned with the pointer (A). When I put the shorting bar back on the timing advanced to where the pointer was now at 27deg. From what I read this is about what it should have done.
After making this adjustment, the idle remained about the same however the number of misses seemed to be reduced slightly. In neutral if I gave some throttle, the engine seemed to be “quieter” if that makes any sense. It seemed smoother (less vibration?) if that is possible. When driving however, power seemed to be a bit less above 2500 RPM. There was also some hesitation in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range which I had only noticed a hint of before. Lastly, there seemed to be an odor to the exhaust that I hadn’t noticed either. In the emissions test, the NOx and CO were not a problem and this got me wondering. It is possible the odor was a remnant of all the off tuning that occurred while adjusting.
I am hoping to get the initial timing good so I have one solid footing to start digging into some other suspected areas like the vacuum system. Getting these questions I have answered would help. If there are any other suggestions I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Andrea
I have to questions about setting the initial timing
1) When I pull the shorting bar off to remove the electronic advance, is there still anything that will affect the advance or can I be certain that all advance is removed and that adjusting for 10deg will be the correct initial timing? In other words, could a problem someplace else, like in the vacuum system mess it up? If there are other things, what do I need to watch out for?
2) I believe I am using the correct reference mark. I can clearly make out the markings on the pulley and the 10deg mark is highlighted. It is the referenced marks I have some doubt about. Below is a picture. In the picture I believe the pointy indicator at A is the correct mark, but I am puzzled by the purpose of B. Can anyone confirm I am understanding this correctly?
My reason for digging into this starts with a rough idle with a significant number of misses. This causes the B2 to fail emissisions. I found there was no EGR solenoid. Putting one in made little difference but seemed to help low end power slightly.
I went to check the initial timing out of concern that it may have been set incorrectly. With the engine warm and the shorting bar removed, the RPM dropped from around 800 to 500 and I found the 10deg mark was falling about midway between the pointer (A) and that circular item (B). I adjusted it till 10 deg aligned with the pointer (A). When I put the shorting bar back on the timing advanced to where the pointer was now at 27deg. From what I read this is about what it should have done.
After making this adjustment, the idle remained about the same however the number of misses seemed to be reduced slightly. In neutral if I gave some throttle, the engine seemed to be “quieter” if that makes any sense. It seemed smoother (less vibration?) if that is possible. When driving however, power seemed to be a bit less above 2500 RPM. There was also some hesitation in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range which I had only noticed a hint of before. Lastly, there seemed to be an odor to the exhaust that I hadn’t noticed either. In the emissions test, the NOx and CO were not a problem and this got me wondering. It is possible the odor was a remnant of all the off tuning that occurred while adjusting.
I am hoping to get the initial timing good so I have one solid footing to start digging into some other suspected areas like the vacuum system. Getting these questions I have answered would help. If there are any other suggestions I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Andrea
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