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My BroncoII died


Robert_1967

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:bawling: I went over to my mother house to run a few errands for her, when I came out to come home my BII wouldn't start, and the fuel pump wasn't making the buzzing noise, I grabbed my Haynes manual, found that it’s the pink/black wire that goes to the pump, and then tried to jump it off the battery, still no noise and no pressure, bummer.

O’Reilly’s wants 138.99 for one, and so does all the others, but I found this one on E-bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/255LPH-FUEL-PUMP-89-90-Ford-Bronco-II_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414d851cceQQitemZ280473443534QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Will this one work?? Anyone have any experience on these types, or should I just save up to get the O’Reilly’s one???:annoyed:

I guess I'll be finding out how hard it is to drop the tank still half full, or maybe I'll take a cut off wheel with me and cut the floor board up and do it that way.

Robert
 


countryboy

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i have bought fuel pumps from ebay b4 and haven't had a bit of trouble from them. the seller seems to have a good rating
 

Robert_1967

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I was just wondering if that one would work, because it doesnt look like what the autoparts stores have pictured, there are some on e-bay that look like the autoparts one's but they are just as high.

Robert
 

adsm08

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I dunno. There is probably some minuscule technical detail that will keep it from working that only AllanD knows off the top of his head.
 

Robert_1967

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well, I think this is the pump that goes in the white case that is in the tank, I think, that means I would have to take the white "module" out and take it apart and put the pump in it then reinstall the pump.

I guess this would also explane the stumbling I had when I tryed to speed up, or when accelerating from a dead stop, also the hard to start problem.

oh well

Robert
 

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What year is your Bronco 2??

The Bronco 2 has 2 fuel pumps.. 1 in the tank and other on the rail right under the driver seat outside the truck.. The one on the rail is a high pressure fuel pump and that is the 1 that normally goes out. Even if the 1 in the tank went out, the high pressure pump sould still have enough power to suck the gas from tank.. I learned my lesson when i was 50 miles outside of Tucson AZ heading back home and my pump went out, and was stuck in the middle of the desert for 6 hours LOL..

Turn the key, and listen for the click in the tank, Also listen for the buzz sound from the rail. As you said you hooked up a battery to the high pressure pump on the rail and it did nothing? well there you go.. High pressure pump went south..


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-FUEL-PUMP-1986-1989-FORD-BRONCO-II-EP286-E2000_W0QQitemZ170428206698QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ae500e6a

This is what you want..

Also NEVER Buy from China LOL...
 
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kimcrwbr1

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Did you check both pumps out first are you getting power to both make sure what the problem is check for power to both pumps first you have a relay a fusible link the inertia switch then the two pumps if you change the high pressure pump and the one in the tank is bad you will burn the new one out under the drivers side rail. if yuou have power then assure your grounds are good also. start with the cheapest first
 

foss40z

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Inertia switch is on the passenger side behind the carpet on right side. Fuseable link is right next to the air filter. ..

If you hear clicking from back of truck then the in tank pump is fine, if you do not then something to think about with dropping of tank..

If you heard a buzzing for 2-3 seconds from the rail on drivers side, then its most liekly ok, if not. its gone south..

I took my high pressure pump out and hooked it straight to a battery and didnt work, so i tapped it on the ground then it worked for a few seconds then stopped again.. Knew i needed a new pump..

Kim is right, if you dont hear a click or buzz from either pump, check inertia switch and fuseable link..
 

Robert_1967

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My 89 BroncoII only has one, pump, I traced the fuel lines from the tank to the rail, under my seat is where the fuel filter sits, and I did check the fuse, the Inertia switch, and the relay, then I just went to the source and tryed jumping the fuel pump close to the tank,, it's sleeping with fish's, it's taking a dirt nap, it's pushing up the grass from below, it just flat out dead.

Robert
 

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Yea according to my chilton the 88 has two pumps and the 89 has one it is good to check everything twice for the cost of parts let us know how it works out cheers.
 

Robert_1967

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always good to check things out, I have a chiltons and a haynes, and I perfer the haynes, it's easyer to read.

my 88 ranger supercab has the two fuel pumps,and the fuel accumalator (sp).

Robert

by the way, I have mention just how much I love this website...
 

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Rockauto.com is listing a "kit" for 41.79. It looks like you'd have to crack open the fuel pump module and replace it that way instead of the entire assembly. It ain't too bad to do; I did this on one of my Iraq junkyard trucks to keep myself from walking everywhere.:icon_cheers:
 

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I cut mine to get to the pump and thats how I would do it again hands down.A little trick I used is I took the tin I was going to cover the hole with and hammered it to conform the to the corrugation before I cut the hole.

I would buy one of the cheaper pumps if it was me.
 

Robert_1967

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I ordered a "kit", but not the one from Rockauto.com, I forgot all about them, I'm getting one off of e-bay for 79.99 free shipping.

I'm going to cut the floor, and go to Pull-a-Part and cut a bigger piece from a wreck to make the hatch.


Robert
 

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Two of my BIIs have had a hatch over the fuel pump. I just cut a junk piece of floor and used some stainless sheet metal screws to put it in place with a lil silicone. Worked like a charm and is 1000x easier than dropping an tank, especially when PA rust is in abundance. :annoyed:

I would also recommend not using a grinder with a cutting disk or a torch to cut the opening. If there is any gas fumes present, it could be an exciting time. I've cut with a hacksaw blade before and I've done it with a sawzall. The sawzall worked pretty good, but I've also had quite a bit of experience with 'em... I didn't bother drilling holes, just plunge cut it, lol. Just remember that there is fuel lines right under there... so I was careful not to cut too deep. I can supply measurements of just where to cut and pictures if needed.
 
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Spitfire1975

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Two of my BIIs have had a hatch over the fuel pump. I just cut a junk piece of floor and used some stainless sheet metal screws to put it in place with a lil silicone. Worked like a charm and is 1000x easier than dropping an tank, especially when PA rust is in abundance. :annoyed:

I would also recommend not using a grinder with a cutting disk or a torch to cut the opening. If there is any gas fumes present, it could be an exciting time. I've cut with a hacksaw blade before and I've done it with a sawzall. The sawzall worked pretty good, but I've also had quite a bit of experience with 'em... I didn't bother drilling holes, just plunge cut it, lol. Just remember that there is fuel lines right under there... so I was careful not to cut too deep. I can supply measurements of just where to cut and pictures if needed.
I'd like that. I need to fix my gauge float. 86 have the same tank as an 89?
 

Robert_1967

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I have a jig-saw with a metal cutting blade, just waiting till the first when I can get to the JK to get a piece to make the hatch with.

I would like to see pictures of how you did it, and a good size for it.


Robert
 

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Initial incision.


Complete with patch piece.

That's what I have up at the moment, I'll have to see about getting some other pictures of it. These pictures are from my choptop, which is missing the one bracket on the floor behind the back seats. But when you pull up the carpet, you'll want to stay about 3/4" to 1" away from that bracket. The hole is centered in the back, I'll have to get dimensions because I forget 'em.
 

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Update cutout pic with my measurements

Thank you for posting the pic. Just wanted to add some measurements when I did this to my B2. I broke two saber or jig saw blades since they were too course but that's what I had. Also I should have slid some thin plywood or something on top of the tank to protect the wires etc. since I nicked them a little. I don't know why more vehicles don't have an access hole from the factory. First ones I saw were on my daughter's 98 Land Rover and my son's 92 Eagle Talon. Every pump or sending unit will fail sooner or later. The reason I removed the sending was that besides the fuel gauge not working due to a hole in the float, (which we soldered) and my fuel pressure would drop from the necessary 40lbs to almost nothing when under a hard load especially on a hill. Apparently that is when the rear pump is needed. I replaced the rear pump with a 60 psi Walbro pump and was going to bypass the front pump. I tried it with both high pressure pumps running and the pressure stays at 40 psi under a load and drops to 35 psi at an idle so I don't see any reason to remove the front pump.
 
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