New BII owner and forum member

[SR185]

Just acquired an all original 84 BII

142K miles
always garaged
automatic transmission
Never wrecked
100% original: paint, interior, wheels, engine never overhauled
Seats and carpet need cleaning, but no rips or tears,
New tires, new headliner, new battery
Engine is running rough – needs tune up, valve cover gaskets
a/c needs coolant charge, but works.
Needs new sending unit in gas tank to make fuel gauge work.
Could use a paint job, but looks amazingly good for a 26 year old truck

It starts right up and drives, but the engine is surging (loping) at idle and slow speeds, so this is the first thing I need to address. Any suggestions on what is causing this would be appreciated. I'm suspecting vacuum leak or carb adjustment.

After I get the engine running with the current setup, I will most likely do the Duraspark conversion.

What next? I just bought a set of the optional 10-hole alloy wheels and plan to put some 31's on it with a mild lift kit. Haven't decided if I'll do body or suspension. The suspension is making popping and creaking noises (not badly) and I'm thinking urethane replacement parts would be a consideration.

Anyway, so many things I could do with it. Just need to prioritize.

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[whocares]

Good looking BII.

 

[ragajungle]

That truck looks like it should be in a museum! Amazing find!

My good buddy has an 84 with the 2.8L carbureted v6. He has the same issues (Among others) it could be as simple as a vacuum leak somewhere (keep in mind 25 yr old rubber hoses get brittle and crack) or it could need some carb work.

I would spend some time reading some of the older threads regarding carburators - some very helpful people have posted on this very issue.

Welcome!

 

[adsm08]

If you are going to duraspark it I wouldn't waste the time and money getting it to run properly as is first. The problem part is likely something you will end up replacing during the duraspark conversion.

As for 31s, keep in mind that if you don't re-gear you will both mess up your speedo, and further castrate an already underpowered driveline.

Also, if you are going more than 1 or 2 inches on your lift, don't waste money on a body lift. Suspension all the way. If you get the good (expensive) one, it will come with most of the parts that I am sure are starting to wear out a bit on your truck.

Looks wonderful though. I'd love to find one in that shape.

 

[SR185]

Plan to do the valve seals and valve cover gaskets this week.

After that, I plan to do the Duraspark conversion.

I got a deal on the optional 10-hole alloy wheels that were available back in the day. I don't plan on tacking the wheels and tires until I get the motor sorted out.

I've read various opinions on lift need for 31" tires. Do you think I can get away with no lift with 30" tires instead?

 

[RobbieD]

Nice truck! I tried keeping my '84 Ranger 2.8 stock as long as I could stand it, but the Duraspark conversion is definitely the way to go. Good call on the valve cover gaskets and valve seals; it'd also be a great time to adjust the valves, if needed. Good luck with the new BII; I hope that it serves you well.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Don`t tighten the valve covers all the way just snug them down first after the initial adjustment and run it at high speed for a couple of warm ups then go back and readjust them when the engine is cold. It makes it nice if you do the duraspark at the same time as you will not have all those wires and vacuum lines in the way. The only wires you will need is the water temp,oil pressure,alternator and A/C clutch unless you have the overdrive lockout. The way I did it was pull the computer connector thru the firewall and disconnected everything to the alternator wires then from the 8 wire connector by the coil I stripped the harness to the alternator to expose the wires and you will know which ones to cut and what to save. wiring the A/C and OD lockout are separate from the ignition and you can add a throttle actuator to up the idle when you turn the A/C on. Anyway keep us posted on your progress.

 

[SR185]

Don`t tighten the valve covers all the way just snug them down first after the initial adjustment and run it at high speed for a couple of warm ups then go back and readjust them when the engine is cold. It makes it nice if you do the duraspark at the same time as you will not have all those wires and vacuum lines in the way. The only wires you will need is the water temp,oil pressure,alternator and A/C clutch unless you have the overdrive lockout. The way I did it was pull the computer connector thru the firewall and disconnected everything to the alternator wires then from the 8 wire connector by the coil I stripped the harness to the alternator to expose the wires and you will know which ones to cut and what to save. wiring the A/C and OD lockout are separate from the ignition and you can add a throttle actuator to up the idle when you turn the A/C on. Anyway keep us posted on your progress.

Thanks for you suggestions on the Duraspark. Couple of questions:

Mine is an '84, so I don't have the overdrive to worry about.

1. if I purchase the "optional" pigtail plugs listed in the Duraspark conversion article in the library, do I need a wring harness off another vehicle too?

2. Can you explain what you meant about pulling the computer connector through the firewall? I don't quite understand.

Thanks in advance.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Thanks for you suggestions on the Duraspark. Couple of questions:

Mine is an '84, so I don't have the overdrive to worry about.

1. if I purchase the "optional" pigtail plugs listed in the Duraspark conversion article in the library, do I need a wring harness off another vehicle too?

2. Can you explain what you meant about pulling the computer connector through the firewall? I don't quite understand.

Thanks in advance.

First off you only need three wires from the dizzy to the module you just need to splice them color to color black is ground and purple and orange are the pickup coil wires. You would use the first color schematic for your setup I got lucky and found the harness at the bone yard it just has a three and four wire connector and was plug and play the only wire i needed to splice was the green to the coil and as you see the red and white are reverse but it is correct for the power.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html. The harness has a metal plate that bolts to the firewall I pulled the plate with the harness then separated it from the harness and put it back in and siliconed the hole I hate loose wires anywhere. Then I pulled all the emissions stuff off of it 0-2 sensor knock sensor by the starter all the solenoids and vacuum lines up to the alternatore and layed it on the front of the truck, then from the four wire connector by the coil stripped the harness back to the alternator you will see the wires you need and it is suprising you only have to cut a couple of wires and the rest goes by by. I am not sure how the switching is for the A/C but the wires you cut are for the power to the computer so cut them a little long for possible future use I use mine for the choke thermostat and the vapor solenoids I also hate the smell of fuel in the engine compartment I just put one of those vacuum restrictors in the line to the vapor cannister so it dont pull too much vacuum at an idle the computer controlled that also. I took my time I guess it took about 5 hrs to pull the wires and get the duraspark working and have found that manifold vacuum works best for the vacuum advance and I just run my air pump valves from ported vacuum on the 2150 nonfeedback but the only thing you really need is the advance everything else can be plugged including the egr. GL

 

[SR185]

kimcrwbr,

You want to come down here and help me out? According to Google, it's only 2700 miles to Mobile, Alabama from where you live. After we her running with the conversion, I'll take you down to the beach to see the oil spill.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Things have been slow here maybe they will give me a rake and shovel do I need to bring my own boots he he. No just take your time you will figure it out a friend of mine had a 2150 non feedback carb I surfaced the bottom with 180 grit sandpaper glued to a piece of flat plywood and put a rebuild kit in with #46 jets but your stock 50s will do. Felpro makes a spacer for the 302 # 60529 for $18 to plug the vacuum leaks on the bottom I would give a day for the wiring and another to get the carb right but thanks for the invite especially the wrenching not so much on the sludge.

 

[ozziemo27]

Nice bronco II. the surging sounds like a vac leak. good luck with the build, looks like a great platform to start modding.