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Not Another CTOR Build


CheapThrillB2

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yeah i used to have OBA with my explorer, but never carried it over to the B2

looks like the doubler is coming back out of the box. I got a peice of an output shaft so i can redo the sector shaft. But this one is different. The output shaft i have is 4.25 inches long and is all splines. So i am going to try and find a shop that can respline the gear that way their would be no need for welding the shaft at all.
 


rickcdewitt

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where did you get the splined stock?from a tranny?
 

CheapThrillB2

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came from a 92 ranger with a 2.9L Mitsu trans and a 1354M tcase (the trans lost 1,2,3 gears) it was from one of the donor trucks for junkyard dog

i seen how long the splines were and i just had to have it
 

CheapThrillB2

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Bloody good looking ride you have going, Keep up the great work.
i just cant get over on how cool that bronco looks....
Thanks:icon_thumby:







i really have not gotten around to getting it torn down due to time and money, but i may put it back together enough to take it out this weekend. But i am undecided if i'll take the B2 or the DD yet
 

CheapThrillB2

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I sheared all but one bolt on each side of that shackle bracket on either side today. I used 3/8 grade 5 bolts, now they will be grade 8

i also toasted another LF axleshaft, i really need to buy some chrome moly shafts and get weaker hubs. My hubs are the ones that are all metal and indestructable. I need to get the weaker hubs and several spares that way i can just change the hubs quicker and less costly then shafts and joints each time

 

CheapThrillB2

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when i tear it down, i'll be replacing the front welded spiders with an aussie locker. I think with the aussie and chrome molly shafts i should be able to make the front survive longer then one trip
 

rickcdewitt

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i bobbed the bed on my ranger a couple weeks ago and thought about mounting my bumper like that.instead i put a plate against the inside of the frame rail that bolts before and after the spring mount and hangs out so the bumper tabs can bolt to it.i don't know if the extra work was worth it but i'll probably do something similar to you when i shorten the frame and put on a flatbed/trail bed on.
 

CheapThrillB2

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i got a bunch torn back down today, the front axle and suspension torn out from under neath it and the Front axle stripped to the bare housing. I got some pics but my comp is being gay tonite so i'll load them tomorrow.

I'm debating on tires, i currently have 36x13.50 15 bias Iroks and to be honest int he Michigan terrian i haven't been to happy with them. Even in the lightest of mud they seem to just Ball up into slicks and regardless of wheel spin they just do not seem to clean very well. I have been debating on getting a set of 38x13x16 TSL bias and seeing how those do. Any opinions?
 

compleckz

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you really cant go wrong with tsls..

if you goto 38s would you not be lowering the truck a few inches? (you mentioned that earlier) or is a fender chop in store? what are your plans to get more flex out of the front, i think you also said you wanted to do that?

also you said you wanna goto a 16" rim? as far as used tires go i ALWAYS see everything in 15s in my area, and tires are EXPENSIVE new, i bought my 33" procomp mts new and for how long they lasted, i'm going used from now on! :fie:

if it were me i'd probably stick with 36s, lower it a bit, work on the flex and chop (cleany! is still a nice body) the fenders and bumpstop if need be. you're putting a bunch of money into new chromo axles, you should just stick with the 36s and have a bulletproof rig that dosent snap axles every trip (wish i didnt snap axles all the time).. and maybe you can throw the doubler back in :icon_thumby:

but yea this is coming from a kid with all bolt on mods, so i'm sure you know what you're doing much better than i :D
 

CheapThrillB2

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you really cant go wrong with tsls..

if you goto 38s would you not be lowering the truck a few inches? (you mentioned that earlier) or is a fender chop in store? what are your plans to get more flex out of the front, i think you also said you wanted to do that?

also you said you wanna goto a 16" rim? as far as used tires go i ALWAYS see everything in 15s in my area, and tires are EXPENSIVE new, i bought my 33" procomp mts new and for how long they lasted, i'm going used from now on! :fie:

if it were me i'd probably stick with 36s, lower it a bit, work on the flex and chop (cleany! is still a nice body) the fenders and bumpstop if need be. you're putting a bunch of money into new chromo axles, you should just stick with the 36s and have a bulletproof rig that dosent snap axles every trip (wish i didnt snap axles all the time).. and maybe you can throw the doubler back in :icon_thumby:

but yea this is coming from a kid with all bolt on mods, so i'm sure you know what you're doing much better than i :D
I do plan to lower atleast an inch if not two, my iroks measure out to be 36.8 tall mounted and the TSL's measure 37.8 to hieght will not be that big of an increase. And i bought my iroks new and they are still in extremely good condition so if i got close to what i paid then i would only need $100 or so to upgrade to the TSL's. Also by going to a 16" rim, later if i ever decide to go with a HD D44 or even a D60 then the 16" TSL's will clear the brakes unlike
15" rims. I already plan to stretch my front wheel base and chop the fenders so no issue their. And right now i do break everytime i go out. And yes the Doubler does intend to find its way back into my rig. :icon_hornsup:
 

CheapThrillB2

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heres my LF shaft from this past sunday



wheres the ujoint?
 

CheapThrillB2

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heres the work i got done today,

pretty much totally stripped the front axle down, still debating on shortening the Pass side to EB length or keeping full width. Opinions?
 

sick toys

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I say stick with full width...cheaper....and allows for more tire :derisive:
 

zainyD]

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Leave it full width, much more stability.
 

351ranger

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My god man, another shaft???? I don't get it! You should get a 60 and chromos!
 

CheapThrillB2

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yep another shaft, i think with it
welded
OE shafts
unbreakable ford hubs
5-760x joints (i haven't had the cross shaft fail yet, but have broken the caps)
36x13.50 Iroks on 15x10's (iroks that measure with a tape at 36.5+ and 14+ wide)

is alot of my prob. even taking it easy i am still having problems

so my new set-up will be
38x13x16 TSL's
16x8
Chrome moly
weaker hubs (that way they are the weak link)
Aussie locker
and i am undecided if i'll stay with the 5-760x's or not
__________________
 
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4x4junkie

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so my new set-up will be
38x13x16 TSL's
16x8
Chrome moly
Aussie locker
and i am undecided if i'll stay with the 5-760x's or not
5-806X dude... 5-806x

(and the axle they fit in)
 
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