Not Another CTOR Build

[Evan]

5-806X dude... 5-806x

(and the axle they fit in)

Yeah you might just want to go with a 60. It'll probably save money in the long run...

 

[CheapThrillB2]

i'd have a 60 if i didn't have to spend 1K to get one

 

[351ranger]

i'd have a 60 if i didn't have to spend 1K to get one

I know what you're saying! I'm still hoping I'll run across one in a out of the way unknown junkyard! Shit, the yard I go to I keep finding shit laying around that I didn't know was there so maybe someday I'll find a 60! I just picked up a 10.25 sterling rear 4.10 limited slip and a divorced np 205 for my gmc project for 150 bux for both!

 

[4x4junkie]

Costs nearly 1K to deck out a D44 with all the chromo junk too (and you only get maybe another 2" max tire size it can handle anyway).

Buy a whole F350 truck if you have to, part it out, and sell off what you can, you might even be able to ultimately get the 60 for close to free that way (or bolt a TTB D50 under it and resell the truck whole if it runs).

 

[Mutant Pony]

Costs nearly 1K to deck out a D44 with all the chromo junk too (and you only get maybe another 2" max tire size it can handle anyway).

Buy a whole F350 truck if you have to, part it out, and sell off what you can, you might even be able to ultimately get the 60 for close to free that way (or bolt a TTB D50 under it and resell the truck whole if it runs).

You obviously don't live in Michigan. I've seen stripped out 1 tons with no motor and trans go for $1500. You have to be a really lucky person to find a 1 ton around here for a decent deal.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

their are no f350's for under 1500-2000 in any condition (i have been searching auto trader, ebay, craigslist etc...)

how do you figure 1K to set-up the D44
its already geared with 4.88, and i can get a set of chrome moly shafts for under $500

once i get a D60 i would have to regear it and shafts etc.....and i can't touch a stock D60 for under 1K for the ones i can find within the state.

 

[4x4junkie]

how do you figure 1K to set-up the D44

GOOD quality chromo shafts (Alloy USA, Superior, etc) were around $600 a set last I checked, adding a couple decent U-joints will run you another $350 or so.
Cheaper shafts (Yukon, etc) are much less of an upgrade (that some might argue are not even as strong as the stock shafts with 760s/welded caps).

Don't put out using axles from the '02 &up trucks either (BOTH the F250 AND F-350). The '05up ones are even 35 spline throughout (find the 60 from a wrecked one that was hit in the rear maybe).

.

There once was a time when I too thought chromo shafts were the big hot ticket (even wishing they'd be available for the D35), but when I poke around on Pirate (among other places) and see everyone is still busting up their D44 shit (along with seeing destructive strength tests done that show chromo D44 shafts are a mere 15% or so stronger than stock stuff), I've began to think otherwise, the chromo bling just isn't worth it (the 760s and welded caps alone are good for a 15% strength increase).
At this rate you're breaking the thing, it'd be pointless to continue dumping $$$ into it (you might get 3-4 trips out of it instead of just one or two). It'll just be that much longer before you'll be able to afford getting the 60 anyway.

The only other option is to quit mashing the gas as much maybe.

Anyway, I'll bow out. Good luck on it.

 

[zainyD]]

There once was a time when I too thought chromo shafts were the big hot ticket (even wishing they'd be available for the D35), but when I poke around on Pirate (among other places) and see everyone is still busting up their D44 shit (along with seeing destructive strength tests done that show chromo D44 shafts are a mere 15% or so stronger than stock stuff), I've began to think otherwise, the chromo bling just isn't worth it (the 760s and welded caps alone are good for a 15% strength increase).
At this rate you're breaking the thing, it'd be pointless to continue dumping $$$ into it (you might get 3-4 trips out of it instead of just one or two)...

I concure Junkie, chromos are nice if you can afford them, but IMO aren't worth the extra $$, especially if you have access to junkyard spares.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Anyway, I'll bow out. Good luck on it.

Don't bow out, i like your input. Your opinions are those of only a few members on here that i beleive/trust/listen.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

this is what i had in mind

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12187_dana_44_moser_super_duty_inner___outer_axle_shaft__right.htm

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-22036_moser_max_inner___outer_axles__left_1978-79_bronco.htm

 

[Mutant Pony]

If it were me I would stick to the '78-'79 length Mosers and go DOWN a size or two in tire. The breakage would be done.

 

[351ranger]

And I wouldn't have it locked in front either. You really don't need it in a b2. You can get a brake lock where you lock either wheel individually and it would be as good as a locker. That's what Bobby Walter suggested to me and I'm going to do. I've done some pretty crazy crawling in my b2 with no locker and only broke one shaft. And I have 36" swampers with smaller joints than you.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

i think alot has to stem from the front being welded. when it goes back together i'll have an aussie locker up front instead. Also i will be getting a bunch of the weak 80's hubs. The u-pull-it yard near me has a ton of them cheap. That way the hub will be the weak link. Rigth now i am runing the 77 style all steel unbreakable D44 hubs.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

its not just the joint/ears that i have broke heres a list..........Theirs nothing more then i would like to do then to go D60 but its just not realalistic in my situation. And yeah i to believe that i need a D60.

when i run the 760's i break the caps not the cross shaft, but its hard to say which goes first the ears or the joints. The shaft that broke last weekend was a autzone joint so i assume that is where the failure started from. But all other shafts i have broke with the D44 have been using 760x joints.

I broke two at the pig gig, the RF broke cause the ball joints broke and fawked everything up. The LF broke at the neck down of the splines. I was pulling someone out of a hole in reverse really hard. I know thats real bad to do and wasn't thinking.

I broke Two at a private property, both at the neck down of the splines

I broke the LF at the OSTC event, but i think i damaged (cracked) a ujoint cap at private property the weekend previous and didn't catch it

And the last one at another private property and like i said that was an autozone joint.

i think alot of the failures i blame my own stupidty in what i did/used

 

[CheapThrillB2]

on a side note

i just ordered up a

cornwell plasma cutter
230 volt, 30amp

and an new air compressor
5hp 2 stage, max line pressure 175,


tool truck credit is dangerous, esc when you pay them all off, so now i will only have one truck payment to one tool truck (at one time it was 3 different tool trucks) and the best part is my payment hasn't changed so the payments are still and have been budgeted.

 

[brendank]

If I were you, I'd just continue to run the 44, possibly upgrade to chromo's, and keep looking for a cheap 60. Just keep in mind that you want to change, but it's not worth it unless you get the deal that you want. If you find one, you can let the 44 go and sell it for around the same price as you payed for the 60.

I looked for almost 6 months before I found a complete F350 for $800. Before that, the closest I got was around $2000. I too thought that I'd never find one because of the high prices in my area. In reality I just needed to wait for the right time.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

yeah i am going to build the 44 for now, and keep looking for the 60, their is enough jeep guys in my area where when it comes time to sell the 44 and 8.8 i could get quite a bit for the pair. thats also why i am going with a 16" or larger tire this time around. Works easier and cheaper when the 60 is found. cause i would not need to get new rims / tires

 

[CheapThrillB2]

got a little done today, i ground off my coil mounts from my frt axle and also took the wedges off the pass side so i can cut it down to EB width (this is why i chose the 77 D44 instead of the 78-79 D44's)

also it looks like i may trade my iroks for a set of 36x12.50 15 TSL's that have been custom grooved. I should know tomorrow for sure on the tires

 

[danger88ranger]

lookin sweet, whens this thing going to be on the trail again?

 

[CheapThrillB2]

lookin sweet Thanks , whens this thing going to be on the trail again? well the first round of building took me about 2.5 months to build it from frame off, this time with $$$ being the biggest hold-up probably about 2 months

i no longer own Iroks, i know own a set of 36x12.50 15 Bias TSL's with custom grooving

heres a pic of the tires on the guys Jeep i got them from

the tread depth on them is deeper then what my iroks were, my iroks still had 19/32nds worth of tread left in the shallowist part