- Joined
- Aug 26, 2008
- Messages
- 0
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
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- Vehicle Year
- 1989, 2001
- Vehicle
- 1989=Bronco II
- Engine Size
- 2.9 V6
I paid $250 x 2 so far for A4LD's without the transfer case. Depending on where the fluid puked? That will point to about where and what to look for the failed point. Normally a good puke and lots of smoke= front seal, as the crossover exhaust pipe runs right below the bellhousing.I recently bought a '88 Bronco II with the a4ld and haven't put 20 miles on it.
Went to put new tires on it....had no reverse(and neutral) to get out of the shop! Had to put the transfer case in neutral(took me 20 minutes to think of that :icon_rofland rolled out. Got about 2 miles down the road and it had explosive diarehha at a stop sign. Lost every single gear
1988 b2
35x12.50 tires
EB d44/9 with 3.08 gears
supposedly 56K miles
*side-note: after i cleaned it I noticed the transfer case a a leak/crack...awesome....
Any ideas whats wrong? The junkyard has a tranny and transfer for $225 I just have to install it somehow(never installed a tranny).
It's a job best done by two people, and with the best of luck? Shop labor rate is about 8 hours. (after prep work my wife and I can knock 'em in/out in about 6...)(Prep work: Flushing lines, replacing the cooler lines from the salvage yard one over to something less grungy...R&R front pump seal and staking a new one in place...etc...)
4x4 with a loaded transfer case changes the deal a bit. The 2wd models I've found (again....I've done this dance a total of 3 times) Have a dummy (empty) transfer case, and we drop the transmission with it attached. Doing the drop and install with the case attached for 4wd? Unless you have a lot of help and armstrong friends? It's gonna have to come off before the transmission is dropped and reattached after the transmission is in.
Couple of side bar notes for the 2.9v6 with the A4LD:
CHECK YOUR CRANKSHAFT SPACER!! That's the small round part the flex plate bolts to. The inside has a type of pilot hole for the end of the torque converter. If it's worn or looks busted or egg shaped? REPLACE IT!! We didn't do that when we changed ours the first time---and the torque converter was ever-so-slightly off center. The front seal and bushing gave it up after a couple of months. (even the transmission shops could not figure out the 'noise' it made...until it puked it's fluid)
When you get a transmission from the 'yard'? They supply (in most cases) a matched torque converter. Examine the 'snout' for signs of wear, rubbing, or a neatly made ridge where the seal rides. Yeah you'll need to replace the front seal regardless, and to get any type of 15-30 day "warranty" you'll need to change out the front seal. If you see a ridge where the seal was rubbing? I'd suggest either having the torque converter "Sleeved" or better yet? Just replace it with a reman'd one. I hate doing a job more then once, and like I said---we've R&R ours 3 times so far. (we could have saved a lot of headache if we just paid attention and did basic deep checks)
You'll also need a filter/gasket kit. If the pan has the deep 'sump' (looks like a huge nipple sticking out of the bottom of the pan) Be sure to get the filter that has the extended pickup. Otherwise there's always a chance on a very steep grade it'll fail to pump correctly. Plus it's a good time to inspect the former filter for carnage.
You can also get to the top two bolts with a very unique 13mm socket and flex-o-ratchet. From the top, and it looks impossible---but once you wangle your arm into place? It actually goes pretty quick. (if yours is lifted enough? This might be a non-issue)
Just a few basic bits we've picked up while doing ours. Only other advice would be to make damn sure the shift indicator lines up 100% perfect with the gear you are going for. If not? The spool valve in the transmission may be slightly 'off' the mark---and that creates havoc with the internal transmission pressures. If you need help in fine tuning it? Just ask.
Good luck!
S-
