Our 84 Ford Bronco 2 4x4 build thread. From Junk to almost glory.

[redneckfordf2502002]

So a few updates since last time also going to update the to do mod list:
traded my brother door lock knobs before this B2 had chrome ones and my 88 F150 had black ones he wanted black ones and I wanted chromes so got those traded. Finished painting it.

Ok the new mod list:
4.0L swap once the 2.8L lets go (hopefully a while from now), brush guard (have just need to slightly modify and paint black and put some light tabs on it), maybe an auto trans swap but hoping to stay standard (whats a good 5 speed or auto that bolts to a 4.0L?), picked up a 60/40 seat from a 2000 ranger going to reupholster it in black and blue and maybe throw that in (free), going to paint the trim and roof rack black, plastidip the bumper (rear) and grille, install the black mirrors, do a 2 tone black and blue interior, VHT night shade the side markers tail lights and turns, composite beam headlights, headlight relay mod, get some black rims or plastidip the jeep wheels, more lights, a light bar on the roof, small lift to fit 31s (hopefully the Ford 7.5 and D35 front will handle that), ARB air lockers front and rear, LED lights all the way around, fix rust and dents, repaint a dark blue (not sure what color yet), POR15 the entire frame, electric fans, maybe if we do the 4.0L swap get a tuner if possible, nice sounding exhaust system (if we do the 4.0L swap will have to find one that sounds sweet) probably going to do 45* out each side with slash chrome tips in a 2.5" exhaust with 2.5" tips, sweet stereo system with custom boom box in the rear, front hitch for a winch, tint the windows to the same as our 02s windows, probably missing a lot hopefully Dylan will get in here and add to the list as I am not 100% on what he wants and I have been loosing interest in the B2 with my 88 getting so close to being able to run again.
Trav

 

[BroncoIIPower]

After the blue paint that Bronco looks identical to the 87 I had.

As for your transmission question, the 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 share the same block. Any transmission will bolt up as long as its from a 2.8, 2.9 or 4.0. I've read that if you do the 4.0 swap you want to use the transmission from the donor. I've also read that if you nurse the transmission you can get away with just running your old transmission. If you want to do the automatic conversion you'll want to steer clear of the A4LD. I've had bad luck with RBV automatics. I stick with the manual transmissions. They are more fun to drive and I feel they are less likely to be stolen because almost no one can drive a clutch any more.

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

After the blue paint that Bronco looks identical to the 87 I had.

As for your transmission question, the 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 share the same block. Any transmission will bolt up as long as its from a 2.8, 2.9 or 4.0. I've read that if you do the 4.0 swap you want to use the transmission from the donor. I've also read that if you nurse the transmission you can get away with just running your old transmission. If you want to do the automatic conversion you'll want to steer clear of the A4LD. I've had bad luck with RBV automatics. I stick with the manual transmissions. They are more fun to drive and I feel they are less likely to be stolen because almost no one can drive a clutch any more.

Thanks I really like the blue paint.
If I do a 4.0 swap I will use the donor trans but we have pretty much decided to stay the same (minus I would like to fab up a brush guard) and such.



On a side note couple of updates:
We have tried selling and trading the B2 since painting it for something different with no luck. Everybody whom comes out and looks at it sounds like they love it and act like (I am sure they do) then right at the end they back out. So unless somebody actually wants to trade it for what we want or need looks like it is staying with us. I kept thinking man this truck is like the movie Christine never wants to leave us.

Also when we had a guy over looking at it we threw my battery from my F150 in there and tried starting it. I start smelling smoke got out turns out my brother (the one whos the Bronco 2 belongs to) hooked the battery up backwards :icon_surprised: :icon_confused:
I get out of the truck and we hook it up correctly and then she tries starting itself. My dad automatically found the problem (wire melted jumping the starter solenoid making it start). So we electrical taped that off so it won't do it again and threw a little gas in the carb and cranked it over tried to start but didn't. I have to wait till I get gas to start it back up.
Decided since I have a used clutch for the B2 (that is in really good shape) I am going to throw it in and run it till it goes then put a brand new one in. I know it sounds stupid and pointless but being my truck is down right now I need something to get us by then when my truck is up again I can fix things correctly (beater redneck style since this is our beater truck.)
Good news is we cleaned it up a bit (need to do it much better as it looks like a damn trash truck and I hate that.)
I am hoping to get it up soon I am missing beating it to death.
Trav

 

[wizkid00104]

Its nice looking rust free B2. I wish I had all the wide open space you have!

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

rust free are we looking at the same Bronco 2? LOL
Behind the doors are tons of rust and bondo. I guess that is my fault since I haven't taken a good photo of the rust. I love all the wide open space it makes wheeling some much funner.
The truck has 326K miles on the body and is from back east. The truck was only in AZ for about a year before we got it and was never washed of the salt. It is from Ohio originally. 146 on the engine, trans and t-case. This is the main reason I want to get something different I don't feel like dealing with rust on it even though I know after I do it, it won't rust out again. Hence why I just use it as a beater truck to beat the crap out of.

this is the passenger side obviously not as bad

 

[wizkid00104]

I stand corrected. From further back, nothing caught my eye. And you told me no watching for rust out there lol

I bet the wide open spaces are great. I want to be further out of town, but work keeps me in suburban areas.

Well if the B2 is just for wheeling, might as well pull the front swaybar and rear if it has. My Ranger doesn't have either of them now :icon_thumby:

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Ya I know I usually try to hide the rust in my pics. LOL.
That is one thing hard out here is finding a job of course I am only 18 though.
I thought about pulling the sway bars but I drive it on the road and Bronco 2s have very little road manners without sway bars (ask me how I know (use to have another b2 before this one).
Trav

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Is the cinder block and 2x4 to hold the door closed of just holding it level for the pics
Sorry just had to.

 

[armadillon]

I've gotta say, this is awesome. Two brothers working on an old Bronco 2 with whatever they can find. I remember how proud I was when I did little things like changing the window lock knobs.

You have the most awesome white trash Bronco 2 you could ever learn to work on. I don't think anyone is going to offer you enough for it, as only you and your brother will know the true value of it.

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Is the cinder block and 2x4 to hold the door closed of just holding it level for the pics
Sorry just had to.

LOL believe it or not it does push the truck level somewhat but no it does actually hold the door closed. Which look below for the update.

I've gotta say, this is awesome. Two brothers working on an old Bronco 2 with whatever they can find. I remember how proud I was when I did little things like changing the window lock knobs.

You have the most awesome white trash Bronco 2 you could ever learn to work on. I don't think anyone is going to offer you enough for it, as only you and your brother will know the true value of it.

Well it isn't just me and my brother it is also my other brother and dad but yes we are the main ones whom work on it (not that I like it) LOL. I remember when I started working on cars it was suck a big deal about the lock knobs but now it is nothing to me since I have done so much bigger things.
I am beginning to believe what you posted above is true. I am going to keep trying to sell or trade it since my brother really wants a ranger but this little truck as grown on me since we first bought it with most of the front clip gone, just the exhaust manifolds on it, beat to death body, and shifted like a tank. One day if I don't get rid of this thing I hope to completely fix it up because trucks that have even small problems start to drive me nuts fast while I am driving them. LOL


A few updates: my dad got tired of the 2x4 and cinder block holding the door shut so he took out the door latch and fixed it then threw it back in now no problems at all closing and opening the door minus the handle is pushed up a bit (not worried about it at all it works and I don't care I don't want to mess with it then it stops working again). LOL
Then we started pulling the transmission I got everything disconnected minus the cross member for the transmission. I thought I had all the tools to do it but I don't have a damn 18mm and 21MM deap socket in 1/2" drive for my breaker bar
I called all the neighbors (one only LOL) and asked if he had one he says he has no metrics bigger then a 15mm
So we wrapped it up for the day and going to get the tools when we can.
Here are some of the things I saw yesterday while pulling the trans:
slave cylinder for clutch worked but had part of the plastic where it goes through broken and the top bolt for the slave was an all thread stuck in their with 2 nuts and a lockwasher
Then the rear drive shaft had only three bolts holding it and it looks like somebody tried stealing the rear drive shaft:icon_rofl:
Then I tried disconnecting the front part of the drive shaft they have two allen head screws and 2 hex head screws 12pt (which the 12pts are what they are suppose to be. Trying to get the allen screws off I started to bend my allen wrench so I stopped (I can't afford to break it as that is the same size for most of my Harley parts). Then I looked at the driveshaft and said to myself why in the hell am I trying to disconnect it completely when I can just leave it hanging:icon_idea:

So I pulled the front drive shaft which had all 4 bolts but one was a different sized head.

By now you would figure all the pieced together stuff would be done but:
the starter had a bolt longer then stock that had been drilled completely through the transmission bell housing and a nut and lock washer on the bottom
The top had a piece off all thread all the way through and a nut on both sides.
What confused me is the starter doesn't grind or anything like that like most B2 and rangers I have seen.


Anyways the part that was somewhat good to find:
while pulling stuff off the transmission I found clutch disk fibers everywhere and tons of it so I now know exactly what is wrong CLUTCH like we figured (thank god for that one (sorry if that offends anyone)).
For now I have everything wrapped up with rags and such so no dirt can get into it.

What I thought was weird in this truck is it is completely pieced together yet has Bosch plugs and wires, a newer looking dizzy and cap and rotor, and some more really expensive things yet everything else is pieced together.


now for my questions:
I had the truck up on jack stands and really like the height I gained. I have access to 89 F150 rear blocks and 88 F150 front coils and that will give me the height we want (I measured it out). Will the F150 blocks and coils fit? I have no blocks in the rear of our B2.

Which transfer case do we have (the transmission is a TK5 if that matters)?
What fluids do I use in the transmission and T-case I just want to do a bit of servicing.
Trav

 

[wizkid00104]

now for my questions:
I had the truck up on jack stands and really like the height I gained. I have access to 89 F150 rear blocks and 88 F150 front coils and that will give me the height we want (I measured it out). Will the F150 blocks and coils fit? I have no blocks in the rear of our B2.

Which transfer case do we have (the transmission is a TK5 if that matters)?
What fluids do I use in the transmission and T-case I just want to do a bit of servicing.
Trav

Check the leaf spring width on the F150 and the B2. The B2 should have 2.5" wide springs. Not sure about the 150. If they are the same, the block should be fine.

For the coils, I point you to this: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Fall2003/F-150_coils_for_your_V8_BII_or_Ranger.htm

Your T-Case is a Borg Warner 1350. It should take Dexron II ATF. See here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TransCaseMaint.shtml

For your tranny, I found 75w90 synthetic... which I think is odd...
http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/Fluids-Chart.html

Hope these help :icon_thumby:

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

It does a ton Thanks Jeremy
I will have to add some fluids into all that along with front and rear end.
My F150 leaf springs are 3" wide compared to the B2s 2.5" springs.
I am going to the junkyard for some parts for my 88 F150 and I will look to see what kinda blocks have a 2.5" leaf spring I know there is a few 90s and 2000s ranger maybe they will have one.
Trav

 

[wizkid00104]

You can always get a set of explorer leaves or ranger leaves and build your own spring packs. Once you remove the springs, you just have to cut the center bolt off or take it off. Then all the springs come apart and you can do what you please. Its very common for people to cut the main eye off of another spring pack and insert in under the main leaf. You should be able to get new axle center bolts online or from the local auto parts store.

You may want to replace the spring eye bushings while you have the springs out.

Here is a good shot of a center bolt...



I got a little lift from these Jeep shackles if you want to look down this road. I really like them on mine.





And when I installed mys suspension I had a lot of problems with siezed bolts in bushings.... so I cam up with a solution...











Fun and relatively inexpensive little project. I used 9/16" x 4 1/2" grade 8 bolts and grease fittings from AllensFasteners.com. They are a great place to buy hardware from because they have the best prices I've ever seen and everything is great quality.

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

I really didn't want to go through that much hassle just yet (not until we are ready to start fixing it up). I just wanted to get a little lift so when I hook up trailers and go trailing I don't get rubbing with the 235 75 R15 tires. I really just wanted to throw a block and such in since I have a bunch of F150 and bigger truck parts laying around I figured I might do that but doesn't sound like I can.

Can I use wood blocks in the rear for a lift till I can get some metal blocks or is that extremely ill advised. I may just leave it as is the height doesn't really concern me to much it does sit at a decent stance now.
The springs in it are really strong and I am not sure if they are sagging or not.
Trav

 

[wizkid00104]

I would advise against the wood. I've seen it done before, but that doesn't make it right. If that wood block splits and falls out, you have some big problems. For the record, I don't reuse u-bolts either because when they are torqued down, it actually stretches the bolt. Old mechanic taught me that.

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Ya I would have to get new U-bolts if I did it. Well for now I think I will leave it stock not like I can afford bigger tires just yet anyways let alone do I think it would be smart to do it since for a while it will be my DD.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Well yesterday got the transmission out of the Bronco 2. (took a chit load of PB blaster to break loose the bolts on this rusted son of a gun). I would say the clutch is royalled Fed up by me I don't think I am going to be pushing this thing as harsh as I use to push this old girl other wise it may not last the time I am giving it all I have to do now is push the trans into the engine a bit more, put the bell housing bolts back in, put the starter back in, throw the slave cylinder back in, throw speedometer cable back in, and lastly hook up the driveshafts. Pressure plate had slightly bent springs. Clutch was riding on the damn rivets and springs had close to 1/4" of play in them! I personally say if I take decent care of the truck the clutch I threw in will last 20-30K miles I figure by then the bronco 2 will be put down to rest the way I beat the crap out of this truck and the way the truck is going. I think what I am going to do is drive this thing till it dies then when it does park it in the backyard waiting for a good swap to do (4.0L or 5.0L).
Check out these pics this is exactly how the clutch was pulled nothing pulled off of it:
The side that goes in towards the pressure plate I believe:

other side:

How the Bronco 2 is sitting right now on jackstands waiting to be buttoned up:

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

got the b2 up and running yesterday. Clutch works and goes in gear and everything. Can't wait to get some gas and start driving her around a bit.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Ok so a few updates. Yesterday went to the junkyard and picked up two tan door panels, the door locks with keys, the locking glove box, and some of the arm rests. Installed all that yesterday but the door lock on the drivers side isn't working right. Not sure what is wrong yet.
We installed the door panels using machining self taping screws. To me it looks nice I just didn't want to deal with the stupid Christmas tree things.
Picked up some brighter sealed beam headlights the other day and installed them they are much nicer. Been using the B2 around the ranch a bit.
Looking to go back and get more parts for the B2 but not sure when.
Trav

 

[redneckfordf2502002]

Yesterday took the B2 out on the road again drove great minus not having any gauges (damn cluster is either dirty or bad). The headlights aren't that much brighter but oh well I hate sealed beams anyways.

Yesterday before we drove the truck went back to the junkyard and grabbed the following for her:
the plastic cover that covers the relays, the passanger door handle to open the door from inside, a brand new PCV breather, all the clips for the air cleaner stuff to stay on, a license plate light, and some more screws that I needed in some spots.
Got all of it installed so now I have 2 license plate lights that work (had to replace both bulbs) (had to reroute my trailer light hook up which is going to need replaced as one of the prongs broke).
I think that is pretty much it. I may have to go back again one day to get the gauge cluster but not sure yet. Right now we are just trying to fix it good enough that it is drivable and will last as long as possible. Not going for a full restomod just trying to make it do decent.
Trav