Howdy! I have an '89 with some decent rubber (at least I like to think so). Stock springs and more-than-flat leaf springs.
Tires:
BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2 -- 235/75r15 (approximately 29" tall and 9.3" wide).
Wheels:
Pro Comp 51 Series Rock Crawler -- 15x8" with negative 3.75" backspacing.
Pics:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mpeIiurQHgCuihvOImklKE25uJ6Xv4MJ
The fronts just barely rub on the radius arms at full lock, but the turning radius is so tight I hardly ever need to go full lock in either direction. The rears can hit the lip on the upper area of the inside of the fender arch, but only when going over really tall bumps or steep dips (or not as tall/steep but higher speed) and/or if I have multiple passengers. I'd say it rubs very rarely and could likely be fixed by rolling the fenders (they have a good half inch or so lip that sticks out perpendicular to the fender).
If you're gonna do 235/75r15s without rolling the fenders, I'd recommend 7" wide wheels or 8" wide wheels with a less aggressive backspacing, but keep in mind the higher the backspacing (closer to or above zero) the more it will rub on the radius arms because it will pull the tires in towards the axle.
As for driveability... It hasn't changed much. It rode like a train on rails before and it rides like a train on rails now
(between you and me that might be because of the $20 shocks from AutoZone).
-- Here's some of my hooplah that's not as relevant and has my... opinions ( :gasp: have to be careful nowadays having opinions):
My personal opinion of the tire and wheel size is that they help fill the wheel well and widen the stance, but a slight lift and 31" or 32" tires would look more better. Just be careful lifting a BII because the center of gravity is high as is, so you also want to have a wider stance alongside the lift. If you're gonna go for a lift, I'd say either go with a complete suspension
system or a simple body lift. A body lift will keep the majority of the vehicle's weight at the same height relative to the axles, keeping the center of gravity at a closer-to-stock point. A "half-ass" suspension lift (as I like to call them), with blocks for the rear and drop brackets for the radius arms and drop brackets for the stock axle pivot brackets, will raise your center of gravity (because it lifts everything supported by the suspension, not just the body) and won't really increase your ability to "flex out" compared to stock height. Think about it, your entire suspension is essentially stock, except you installed spacers in between the axles and upper drivetrain/body. I think these type of partial suspension lifts are alright for a unibody chassis (chassis and frame are integrated) because you can't really do a body lift; but for a RBV like the Bronco II, which has a body-on-frame structure, it's not a good choice. A suspension system (new coils, leaves, radius arms, axle pivot brackets, etc) results in an entirely new suspension setup and it will yield the expected benefits.