Removable hatch mod.

[88ranger2.3]

This was a pretty simple modification. I am sure someone probably posted about it, but I didn't see any under the search so I thought I would post mine.

Disclaimer

I won't take responsibility for any legalities that may come into play with this modification, or damages that may occur from the details I describe. Just use your head.

Description

Just a brief outline of what it takes to make a rear hatch removable.

Supplies/Tools Required

3/16" rod stock at least 12" (Welding rods make good material)
Bench Grinder (I used one, but it isn't really required.) or regular 4 1/2" Grinder
Cut off tool (Dremel or Die Grinders work nice, but a hack saw blade could be used)
2 small Cotter/Clip pins (I used hair pin clips)
Drill bit just larger then the Cotter/Clip pins
ViseGrip Pliers
Hammer
Drill

Directions

The first step is to go and find a piece of rod metal to replace the pins in the hinges. I used I believe a 3/16 inch stainless steel welding rod (just what I had around). I just used the bench grinder with a wire wheel to remove the shielding flux.

Next, I marked and cut off about 5". I used a small MAPP gas torch to heat and bend the rod to make a "L" shape (see picture below) where the short side is about 1" long and the long side is about 4" long.

Using the grinder make a taper to the long end of the pin approximately 1/4" long. (This makes installation easier)

Take the pin and carefully drill a cotter/clip pin hole close to start of the taper.

Now, using the cut off tool you have to cut the existing hinge pin off. I found it is easiest to use a small cut off wheel on a dremel or die grinder. I recommend cutting the pin in the center. Using the vise grips grab the pin tightly and hammer lightly on the side of the vise grips to move the half of a pin (halfpin from this point on) you grabbed out of the hinge. (remove the half closer to the center of the vehicle) Once you have moved the halfpin out a little you my have to reposition the vise grips to the outer edge of the halfpin and repeat the process to remove the halfpin fully.

Install the new pin into the half of the hinge and then remove the other half of the original hinge pin with the same process.

Fully install the hinge pin and install the retaining clip and you are half way done. Just repeat the steps to do the other hinge.

You now have a removable hatch.

Photos

Other Details/Concerns

The first thing to explain why this was a simple modification for me. My bronco is pretty basic with options. It doesn't have a rear wiper, defrost, third brake light... There is no wiring to or from the hatch I had to deal with so keep this in mind before you do the modification that you might have to deal with hooking and unhooking wires to remove/install your hatch.

Also, I found that I could remove a fuse for "interior lights" from the fuse box to keep the interior lights from staying on. Just a simple fix to be able to have the hatch off.

I hope this write up helps anyone curious about making their hatch removable and enjoy.

 

[PaleBlue90]

i want to do the same thing for doors and sway bars. i got one question. why? im curious

 

[88ranger2.3]

Planning same for doors as well. I had one pin that was pretty warn so it needed replaced. Had the hatch off and took a drive decided I liked the new version of a/c so the new pins needed to be removable. Also, planning to install a tailgate from a ranger. Main reason was cause I hadn't seen it done and because I can. If people liked it I may do more write ups as I modify the bronco.

 

[twoll86]

Planning same for doors as well. I had one pin that was pretty warn so it needed replaced. Had the hatch off and took a drive decided I liked the new version of a/c so the new pins needed to be removable. Also, planning to install a tailgate from a ranger. Main reason was cause I hadn't seen it done and because I can. If people liked it I may do more write ups as I modify the bronco.

what part of southern IL?

 

[BONES]

Neat idea, hadn't thought of just making the whole hatch removable.

Actually in the summer with no rear ventilation I find it to get very hot in the back of the BII and have been looking for a rear hatch with pop open window and then make the window removable if possible. Just another spin on your idea.

 

[88_Eddie]

pretty, cool.....i'm wondering if the pitch is too thin though. seems like it may grind away a little bit with opening and closing.

i wanna do this to my BII doors and rear hatch too

 

[88ranger2.3]

Near Steeleville Illinois

 

[88ranger2.3]

I used pin material the same diameter as the original pin as measured with a drill bit gauge. I will remeasure the new pins to verify the diameter when I get home.

 

[Little X]

Instead of using pins and cotter pins, you can just use grade 8 bolts of the appropriate size and lock washers. That's how I've had my doors for years now, no problems. I take the doors off every spring and put them back on every fall.

 

[Combs Customs]

If you remove the contact button for the hatch, the lights will go off. Just unplug it.

 

[88ranger2.3]

Instead of using pins and cotter pins, you can just use grade 8 bolts of the appropriate size and lock washers. That's how I've had my doors for years now, no problems. I take the doors off every spring and put them back on every fall.

The main reason I don't particularly like unbolting the hinges is it messes with the alignment of the doors, hatch and anything else. The pins and keepers avoid that particular issue. I know it isn't too difficult to get it all back the way it was, but this makes it a no brainer.

I also checked and verified the pins are 3/16".

Another note I have decided that the drilled keeper pin holes should be 90 degrees off from the bend in the pins. I have mine lined up and am going to make a new set to make it a little easier to install. I will update and post pictures after I make the new pins and give them a try.

 

[Little X]

The main reason I don't particularly like unbolting the hinges is it messes with the alignment of the doors, hatch and anything else. The pins and keepers avoid that particular issue. I know it isn't too difficult to get it all back the way it was, but this makes it a no brainer.

I also checked and verified the pins are 3/16".

Another note I have decided that the drilled keeper pin holes should be 90 degrees off from the bend in the pins. I have mine lined up and am going to make a new set to make it a little easier to install. I will update and post pictures after I make the new pins and give them a try.

You didn't understand what I was saying, maybe I wasn't clear enough. I don't unbolt the hinges. I replaced the hinge pin with a grade 8 bolt, just like you replaced the hing pin with a new (removable) hinge pin. I remove the bolt and take off the doors, leaving both sides of the hinge attached to the door/door sill. There is no realigning the door in my method, just like in yours. I just didn't have to fabricate anything, just go buy a few grade 8 bolts, lock washers, and nuts.

 

[MountainMike]

That's pretty cool, it would look awesome with a ranger tailgate

 

[88ranger2.3]

You didn't understand what I was saying, maybe I wasn't clear enough. I don't unbolt the hinges. I replaced the hinge pin with a grade 8 bolt, just like you replaced the hing pin with a new (removable) hinge pin. I remove the bolt and take off the doors, leaving both sides of the hinge attached to the door/door sill. There is no realigning the door in my method, just like in yours. I just didn't have to fabricate anything, just go buy a few grade 8 bolts, lock washers, and nuts.

Well, I am not sure I could source bolts in grade 8 at least 3 1/2 inches long in a 3/16 diameter locally... There isn't much metal on my hinges at least to drill and upgrade to a larger diameter pin size. If I am not mistaken on the doors the pins are much larger, it just might not be a reasonable way to do it on hinges. Although I do agree grade 8 bolts should be able to work for the doors...

 

[heptofite]

you might want to re-think going hatchless if you're leaking ANY ammount of ANY fluid, or have even a pinhole exhaust leak.

the aerodynamics of a bronco 2 throw everything that leaks out against your back hatch, if that hatch isn't there, it's gonna go inside the truck.

just warning you, my hatch is filthy even when the rest of the truck is spotless.

 

[88ranger2.3]

I have probably put around 300 miles on the bronco without the hatch on in nice weather now and with the windows down and the hatch off it doesn't seem to accumulate very much fumes, but there is ALOT of air coming in the hatch area and out the front windows.

I am pretty sure at least in my case the amount of air passing through the bronco would dilute any fumes to a point that is not noticable...

Just my experience.