Removing driveshafts

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Is there a sticky/best how to on removing rear driveshaft? Yeah, that tink tink noise I've been hearing was the u-joints giving way and the awful vibration noise I heard the other night was the driveshaft falling down onto the yoke but she got me home by George!

I know it's just 8 bolts looks like to me (PB Blaster on them now), but I also need to know best practices like:

mark it so it keeps balance
chalk wheels
jack it up or not so I can spin the rear end?

I am not dumb, just inexperienced - once I get into it I'll get it done but to heck if I can find anyone removing drive shafts the same 2 ways...

 

[adsm08]

Chock the wheels, put it in 4x4 and lock the hubs in you can, leave the trans in gear. Break all the bolt that you can access loose and take them out about half way, then take it out of gear, jack the back up and spin the shaft until you can get to the last ones, and let it down, put it back in gear, and break the last ones loose.

Don't work the wrench with your hands, use your feet at first. I have, in extreme cases, also found it helpful to start the engine and have someone hold the brakes. That was an extreme case where I was turning the engine over with a 12mm wrench on a driveshaft bolt though.

Heat can help, but don't get things too hot. It is recommended to mark the driveshaft to orientation, but I have rarely found cases where that was actually needed. Most units are balanced to where it's not critical, especially on a one-piece driveshaft. Two-piece units are a bit more important to keep in phase.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

this is what i've got...looks period correct for an 85?

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

12mm on the back and what size on the front bolts? It's smaller than a 3/8...

Stupid question - why would I not just remove the 4 bolts on the rear and slide it out of the transfer case or does this one not work that way like some of the other videos I've seen?

 

[adsm08]

I have never dealt with the factory U-jont drive shaft in a BII. Mine is the only Bronco II I have ever worked on, and it has the CV shaft.

It looks correct. I don't know if it will just slide out or not. There may be a bolt holding that flange in the transfer case.

 

[bobbywalter]

many have slip shafts. theres 3....well technically 4 styles that i know of.


the front at the t case output may have the 27 torx, but some are 8mm button with no torx.

looks to be the hirider style fixed yoke case as well.


i have made many tools to get them out, as in some cases they have never been out before.

 

[swynx]

12mm 12 point. .. there is an actual drive shaft bolt tool. Never used it heard its way better tho. Cuz while installing every thing is in the way.

If you have to use a breaker bar there's next to no room for one. I didn't use 4x4. Undid 2 bolts at a time then put in neutral. Spun shaft. Put back in gear. ... you'll need a jack or the alike to hold it up while you bolt it back in.

Also when putting it back. I Jacked up the rear end so I could get the rear axle to match the bolts.

Torque to 55? Ft lbs.

 

[bobbywalter]

on that style the front of the rear shaft should be 8 mm 12 point....the rear he already knew was 12mm.

but sometime different bolts are used over replacement/maint

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

2 bolts off, broke shoulder, hands busted...yay! 6 more...why would they use such small bolts...bigger bolt heads would mean bigger wrenches and that would have to be easier...got the 3ft breaker bar out but there's just no room...

 

[adsm08]

Because they design cars to be put together, not to be taken apart.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Alright! System down...breaker bar and the other 2 on the rear was a lot easier...now to the front...

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

When I get these 4 off...slide which way - toward the rear or toward the front...don't wanna screw this up.

Is this one of the drive shafts that I HAVE TO TAKE THE FRONT 4 BOLTS OFF OR IS IT ONE THAT I REMOVE THE REAR 4 ONLY AND SLIDE IT OFF?

Darn manual isn't very useful!

 

[adsm08]

When you get the rear free grab the shaft at the front joints and pull. If it gives any resistance at all it has to be unbolted. Since there is a slip-joint in the middle of the shaft it is highly likely that that rear t-case output is fixed.

If it would slide off at the t-case it would have a double slip yoke, which I don't think I have ever seen before.

 

[bobbywalter]

no slip yoke at case.....should be four 8mm 12 pt.


compress in either direction and plop out

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Here's the culprit...dumb idea but I'm looking to save money...go ahead and get the 3 replaced at one time or just do the one that's broke right now...any idea what a decent driveshaft shop would charge me to press all 3 out and put new back in?

And y'all were right - no slip yoke at case.

 

[adsm08]

At least get both joints at the double cardan replaced.

 

[bobbywalter]

if you were in detroit i would tell you to go to ring and pinion and get a new shaft with a single joint on each end and a new output shaft flat flange for the t case with 8 new proper bolts and get on with it..


i like the single setups better. easy to fix on the side of the road.


those are tough to rebuild for the uninitiated....if you have a shop near you figure 175 with nice new spicer parts and rebalance

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Good news bad news...I pulled the cardan double apart...good news none of the bearings came out so I slipped it back on...seems ok...got one of the ujoints out...gonna go buy 2 and see what I can do...think that if I put the 1st one in and then put the 2nd one in I can keep this thing together and not have a problem...we shall see...

oh yeah, bad news...I don't have a clue but i'm learning on the fly

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

got it all back together and now I've got a squeak scrub sound coming from that double cardan unit when I drive it...taking it all back out now

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Knock on some wood...noise free and runs ok. I took 2 of the dust clips out from the sides that the bolts held in place - they were keeping it from having a good alignment or seal - when I took it back apart you could see a little groove where they were rubbing weird.

Thank God, no more clunk tink clunk when I start off or change gears...should have known that was all it was (I really thought it was something to do with the clutch)...the good news is that it doesn't seem to have that hesitation when shifting gears like it was clink, clunk go...

Look how worn the u joint was (by the way, advance didn't have any Moogs (would be Monday) and this is the only one Autozone had - gonna order the 3 from RockAuto when I get paid and since I now know how to drop this thing, I'm gonna take it over to a drive shaft shop in town and have them make her like new just to ease my mind).