I've seen a small number of reports over the years of the tierods hitting (the FA600 arm positions the linkage about an inch or so closer toward the axle).
It seems if having mismatched brand draglink & tierod can aggravate the issue of them hitting (having one side OEM, and the other Moog, for example).
My suggestion is if your tierods are in good shape (you don't want to replace them), take your driverside tierod and bend it's curve back an additional 1/8" to 1/4" or so using a press so it will clear the pitman arm TRE. This shouldn't weaken it by any significant amount.
So before I decided to try and bend my tie rod I wanted to address some other issues I've been having with my bronco, after I had it aligned it just didn't seem right so I wanted to add some more caster, since they told me it was at 2.3 and 3.2, so after adding a little more caster, look what happened
That your axle beams (the rectangular section where your radius arms attach) are square (level) with the ground (not tilted forward or back). This should set you up for about 5° caster, which you can then adjust +/- 2° or so with the bushings.
Also, make sure the steering is able to move freely from lock-to-lock with both wheels off the ground (check that nothing's binding within the steering gear, column, or linkage)
In need of a manual pitman arm for My 88 b2 changed from a ps to the manual steering gear. Any help would be appreciated. It's a Lares manual box. They don't handle pitman arm for the box it's 1.125 diameter and hard to find. Thanks
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