Still having problems....

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

Thats what is confusing me.....if it happened 100% of the time I would think it was the push rods or maybe the cam bearings gone bad, but it only happens every so often and if you let it sit for 20 mins or so it cures the problem temp....until you drive it again for 30 mins.

did ur mechanic ever check the o2 sensor because they dont send operational signals to the ecu till the engine is warm and if u shut the truck off that would put the sensor mode from open to closed loop
wicked does that make sense

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

No I doubt he did....would that cause the problem I'm having?

 

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

No I doubt he did....would that cause the problem I'm having?

it might but double check with wicked he can probasbly explain it better and ask to to run through the paper clip procedure

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i dont see how a bad O2 sensor would cause the problem described even if the computer didnt pick up on it.

and the timing doesnt match up. it only takes a few minutes of driving a cold engine for it to go into closed loop, so if it was a bad O2 it should start ticking just a few minutes after starting. and letting the engine sit for 30 minutes isnt enough time for the block to cool off...it will go into closed loop almost immediatly after restarting.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Thanks wicked....I was looking at this gauge I'm going to install....where at on the engine block does the adapter screw on?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the pressure fitting is on the drivers front corner of the block. if you want to retain your factory gauge operation, you'll need a 1/4" NPT "T" to screw both the stock and aftermarket gauges into.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I don't need the facftory gauge though do I after I install the new one? Are those factory gauges known to screw up and flip out?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you dont need it....it'll just sit there on the low side of the scale. if that doesnt bother you then leave it. i "T"'d mine just for the looks.

the factory gauges are as reliable as an electrical gauge can be...they arent particularly known for failure but they can and do...

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I guess the local parts store would have that "T"? Thanks wicked....you've been a lot of help....you are extremely knowledgeable....I appreciate your help!

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

most parts stores should have it in stock. if not, a local plumbing or hydraulic shop will.

needs one male and 2 female ends.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Thanks wicked...I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[country0001]

from my understanding, the 2.9's are notorious for this problem. I'm relatively new to the BroncoII scene also. My mechanic has one n his 86 ext cab Ranger and said if u keep the oil changed regularly, it won't lose power. I'm not sure. I've had mine for 2 months now and it was ticking when I bought it. Doesn't bother me too much. Doesn't seem to lose power either. I'm just going to drive it till it blows and put something bigger in. Why spend money on something that's going to die anyway.:icon_thumby:

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

because fixing an engine thats already in the vehicle is still much, much easier than swapping in "something bigger". and most of us have no need for "something bigger" and enjoy the fuel economy of our smaller 6's.

ticking from the valvetrane that is either constant or only present when cold is usually a sign of worn pushrods or rocker arms. its not usually accompanied by a loss of power and it isnt usually intermittant. the issue sweet is having isnt typical of the 2.9/4.0 engine familly...something else is amiss.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Hey wicked...I put in the manual oil pressure gauge....At idle after running for 5 mins or so its showing 18-20 psi....in 5th gear at 2800 rpm its showing 38-42 psi....is that within normal range?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

sounds normal so far, but 5 minutes of idling isnt enough to get the oil up to operating temp.

im anxious to see what the gauge reads while the problem is actually occuring.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

So am I... I will know on Monday...Thats the next long trip I will take in it....I'll let you know.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

When I removed the oil sending unit, it was gunked up with sludge...I flushed the engine yesterday, but I bet it is still gunked up....I am willing to bet that is causung my problem....

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

doesnt sound very promising does it...

keep us posted.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Ok I drove my BII for around an hour today....there was no ticking noise or loss of power....when I pulled into my driveway, the oil pressure was 8-10 psi at idle.....in 4th at 2000 rpm it is between 32-38 psi.....I still think the returns in the heads are stopped up.

 

[dennis461]

Stop guessing

Ok I drove my BII for around an hour today....there was no ticking noise or loss of power....when I pulled into my driveway, the oil pressure was 8-10 psi at idle.....in 4th at 2000 rpm it is between 32-38 psi.....I still think the returns in the heads are stopped up.

IMHO
Stop guessing, pull one of the valve covers off and look for the holes.
The only way to know for sure.

Clean em out if they are clogged.
We had a MGB with a four cylinder that had this happen (clogged up).
When the oil level was low, it took a long time for a fresh quart of oil to make a difference on the dipstick.

More likely the piston rings are worn out or damaged from sitting too long (junk yard engine).
After running a while, the "blow by" dilutes the oil with unburned gas (small amount, but it will get by), the blow by heats the oil too, and pressure drops off.
.
Remember, you get what you pay for.
I had a friend put in a new long block once in a Blazer and paid over $3000 total.
A junk yard engine at the price you paid may only get you a years more riding.
Anyhow, good luck with it.
:icon_thumby: