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tt 2.9l idea


necessaryevil

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ive been bouncing a few ideas around for the 2.9l and my gf brought up the idea of tt t3s, the only problem i could foresee is the engine management. other then internal engine what does everyone think of this?
 


twoll86

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just do a 302 or 4.0 swap it would be much easy and more reliable in my opinion

but the cool factor is there with the tt
 

necessaryevil

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i was really thinking about the 4.0 swap then she tossed in the tt idea. if i build up a very healthy motor and a set of t3s set to about 15-18lbs it would be a real screamer in the upper rpm range, and since i spend a lot of time in sand and snow it would almost perfect. i am just stumped on how to tune the ecm.
 

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prolly have to send of the ecm with you specs and get a custom tune
 

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i recall a mass air flow set up for the later 2.9s...i think 92? if you swapped over to that set up you may not have to worry about a custom tune set up
 

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Good luck finding someone.

You're either looking at a custom engine management system, like a megasquirt, or trying the MAF PCM. JP3/BBR has claimed that the MAF setup worked fine for his setup. But that's a lot of boost. Best bet is to aim low and slowly make your way up - a goal for that amount of boost out of the box on a custom setup like that, is just asking for failure.
 

adsm08

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Good luck finding someone.

You're either looking at a custom engine management system, like a megasquirt, or trying the MAF PCM. JP3/BBR has claimed that the MAF setup worked fine for his setup. But that's a lot of boost. Best bet is to aim low and slowly make your way up - a goal for that amount of boost out of the box on a custom setup like that, is just asking for failure.
Especially on a 2.9. With the 2.9's head problems I'd be wary of a single turbo blowing 10 PSI, I would def avoid twins, especially at 15 to 18 lbs.
 

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i recall a mass air flow set up for the later 2.9s...i think 92? if you swapped over to that set up you may not have to worry about a custom tune set up
in the tech library there is a well put together conversion write up. thought bout it for mine when i was contemplating a turbo or twin turbo setup.

ended up finding a 4.0, if i later choose too, i'll turbo that!
 

cammeddrz

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a 2.9 has a dizzy so changing the timing won't be an issue. and what about a manual fpr? between those two things i bet you'd be fine. as of right now i don't recall as to whether or not the 2.9's have a MAP sensor......i don't think so though. a map sensor would help even more

why twins? its not like a 2.9 needs 2. i'd bet if you did a single you'd spool it better and still get the 18psi you want. psi is relative to engine air demand so 18psi on a 2.9 would be like 9 psi on a 351

i can't tell you how many times i considered putting a 4-71 on all the broncos i've had over the years..........so i feel you
 
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Ivy Mike

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I would probably skip the 2.9 and just go for a 4.0l and get the bump in displacement and better heads. Also bolts in to the RBV without any fabrication. A single turbo sized for your application and a stand alone management system would be perfect.

Don't mickey mouse a turbo system together. Do it right the first time and you'll save yourself untold numbers of headaches.
 

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bump in displacement and a stand alone management system would be perfect.
isn't that always the case?

putting a single turbo onto the 2.9 would likely be as much work as the simple 4.0 swap. maybe a touch more but would net gobs more hp. the cost of the turbo would be
1, the turbo unit
2, the manual fuel pressure regulator
3, manual boost controller
4, blow off valve
5, various small "odds-n-ends"
6, duct work. in the past for the intake ducting i have had exhaust shops bend the pieces i need out of 3" exhaust, and bought 3" 100psi hose from "evco house of hose" for $12/foot.
7, modification to your exhaust. usually pretty minimal
8, oil feed/return lines i usually use a "T" in the sending unit threads. and just dump it back into any number of places in the motor

i usually find a stock turbo'd vehicle at the junkyard and get most of the hard parts from it
 

BlackBII

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2.9 on boost =
 

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isn't that always the case?

putting a single turbo onto the 2.9 would likely be as much work as the simple 4.0 swap. maybe a touch more but would net gobs more hp. the cost of the turbo would be
1, the turbo unit
2, the manual fuel pressure regulator
3, manual boost controller
4, blow off valve
5, various small "odds-n-ends"
6, duct work. in the past for the intake ducting i have had exhaust shops bend the pieces i need out of 3" exhaust, and bought 3" 100psi hose from "evco house of hose" for $12/foot.
7, modification to your exhaust. usually pretty minimal
8, oil feed/return lines i usually use a "T" in the sending unit threads. and just dump it back into any number of places in the motor

i usually find a stock turbo'd vehicle at the junkyard and get most of the hard parts from it
Why yes it is always the case. However, the 4.0 motors are not expensive and are stronger engines to begin with. At the very least, they have better heads and eliminated some (but not all) of the oiling problems of the 2.9.
You wouldn't just go with the 4.0 for its extra 1.1l of displacement. You'd g with it to save yourself trouble in the future by eliminating the weaknesses of the 2.9.

You could then turbo your new 4.0 powerplant and have a more powerful and reliable system than the 2.9 would provide.
 

cammeddrz

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You could then turbo your new 4.0 powerplant and have a more powerful and reliable system than the 2.9 would provide.
agreed. and you could put a turbo on any number of engines that would be stronger still........where does it end?
i would follow you. that is the whole reason my build snowballed into the monstrosity it is, because i always upgraded where possible. he's different from us he just wants to hop up his 2.9. and at that magic number of boost (where it makes lots of power, but still is reliable) it would be as good or better than a stock 4.0l
 
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necessaryevil

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in my younger dumber days i was big in to honda tuning, big engine, big turbos, yada yada yada. so im familiar with using hondata, chrome, ect.the truck dose have a map sensor in it but after doing some reading it is not used the way im used to. the reason im considering using the 2.9l is i have a spare one sitting in storage that i was planing on fixing up to be blown, i found a company in the uk that has "H" beam rods and forged drop dome pistons, and with a set of 89tm heads a high pressure oil pump the engine should be able to handle it if i get the tuning right. as far as engine management, thats where im stuck a rrfpr(Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator)can only get me so far experance is that they are only good for about 8-9lbs of boost
 

cammeddrz

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if you plan to do any engine rebuilding..........thats an entirely different thing. that would be a waste of time as opposed to a 4.0. i thought you just wanted to pep up a 2.9 without tearing into it. thats how i'd do it. but go out and buy a 4.0l core motor for $200 and rebuild that then you can be running around on your 2.9 while you do it. and there are entire websites for the 4.0 with stroker cranks, rotating assemblies everything. just google it
 

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besides electronics is the 4.0 a drop in, or is a tranny swap involved?
 

cammeddrz

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nope, bellhousing is a direct match, the motor mounts from a 4.0 ranger or exploder bolt right in. the 4.0 exhaust routes correctly (headers are alwas better as i'm sure you know) its so compatible a lot of guys actually run the larger 4.0 clutch on their 2.9's. the 4.0 radiator is reccomended, also a drop in for a 2.9
 

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One other area that's going to be a problem will be the head bolts... or the LACK of. The 2.6, 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 all have just enough head bolts to seal things in "factory" trim. If you start pushing any more than 4 to 5 psi, your gonna... and I mean GONNA have head sealing issues. Head studs will help somewhat... and o-ringing will help too. But the fact still remains, the engine doesn't have enough clamping force to seal the engine when the boost is past 4 yo 5 psi on a factory type engine. If you use studs (good luck finding those) and o-ring the heads, you MIGHT get it to seal with 10 psi.
Now, with all that being said, you know as well as I do that your not having fun with a turbo (or turbos) until you get past that "one atmosphere" point. Once you get past 14 psi... it's all fun and games! Wanna do something neat and reliable... do a small block with twin t3's. :icon_hornsup:
 

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