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i understand perfectly what you are saying. the point is you are talking more about modern usage of the two words than you are about their actual definition. how do you define the word motor? how do you define the word engine? by your own definitions, does an engine not also fit the criteria of...

I hate to nit pick here but what of air and hydraulic motors? what of steam engines? what of liquid fuel rocket engines, and solid fuel rocket motors? Once again I'll bring up Ford Motor Company and General Motors, the terms motorcycle, motorcar, motorway, motorcade, etc... From a technical...

I'm with ya on that adsm

Merriam Webster defines the word "motor" as "any device that converts another form of energy into mechanical energy to produce motion" By that definition the term "motor" is an entirely accurate description of an internal combustion engine. It's also no surprise that Ford Motor Company and...

Looks about right. Why are we confused? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

So how many have you grenaded? What were the conditions causing them to fail? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

welcome to the site! by no means am i the grammar police, but that was just painful. please try to put together complete sentences and separate them with periods. That aside, no. your bolt on options are limited to the 1350 and 1354. i would look into what's causing the failure to begin with...

get under it and start shaking shit till you find the source of the play

More importantly a fullsize master will match a full size slave. The cylinders have to be the same volume and stroke. If you start mixing and matching masters and slaves things will get weird fast.

Grab the master and external slave off of a late 80s full size. Ford used them on the t18 and np435 so it will be a direct bolt on affair

that is highly dependent on what you plan to do with the truck. out of those options i would go for the zf. if you are open to more options, i would consider a np435. they have an unmatched 1st and reverse ratio and are damn near unbreakable.

This My ranger started out as a 2.3 5speed 4x4 and it never had any troubles (or so I'm told.) It got good mileage, could break traction if so desired all while running 33s and 4.10s no less. A doubler would have made it a far more capable wheeler for sure.

There's more than a few in herehttp://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=297651

I've done that many times. Still if the noise only occurs under load this will not narrow it down one bit.

that's not so bad. I've seen them scrunched up like an accordion....

It's not the shift motor. It's got to be in the driveline somewhere. It may sound like an electric motor whirring but it is likely low fluid level in the tranny, tcase, or rear diff. Could also be a bearing, an imbalance in the driveline, etc...

the whining and clunking has nothing to do with the tcase shift motor, and likely has nothing to do with the tcase, unless it happens while in 4hi or 4lo. I'm with D-day, the noises are likely driveline related, check your fluid levels, u-joints, and wheel bearings. sloppy u-joints will clank...

Not sure about others on here, but burp sounding grinding noise isn't all that descriptive to me. Is there any shake or shimmy that accompanies this noise? The only sound i can think of that could be described as such is a driveline vibration caused by an imbalance in the driveline or a failed...

The transfer case. It shifts the case between 2hi, 4hi, and 4lo. There is no neutral.

Once you get used to the way a spool handles you'll find it's increadibly predictable and really not that bad on road.