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if the 2 row lower points down and has provision for auto transmission lines, that is probably radiator from an explorer that someone had put in. it would lower cooling capacity, but non-a/c manual trucks usually had the thinner of the radiators

nope. should be strait forward to investigate if you have an analog meter, the TPS is just a simple potentiometer. read this: http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=30

at least drain out the oil that's in there, remove the dist, and prime before trying to start to make sure it's getting good flow to the top of the heads. not easy on a 2.9L tho, you'll have to make a priming tool out of an old distributor because of the star shaped oil pump drive. FWIW dropping...

first thing I would do is spray starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts. it's possible you lost injector pulse, fuel pressure would be good, and would have spark, but no start. if it seems like it's injector pulse, see if you can get it to catch when you disconnect the MAP sensor. if...

I don't think you really want to go there, your carburetor relies on the computer. I have read other threads on this subject, but I can't think of keywords to get me to them. You're just going to really have to dig. This is worth while to read IMO post from Will are relevant, particularly #23...

I didn't measure since .030" really isn't much, but I was still probably under 10:1. I did still run it on 91 to be on the safe side.

I had a street/drag cam custom ground for mine, it would go when hit you it for sure lol even cleaning up some of the factory garbage in the ports will benefit, a lot of power is hidden in the heads. I had my heads milled .030", too, but at that amount I ended up needing the lower intake milled...

they're switches - if you find the right colors, you connect those. seem pretty consistent for Ford to use red/light blue for start and white/pink from what I have seen in that era. like sno ranger said, ignore red/white, the other 2 are reverse lights.

NSS is R/LB and W/PK normally, the R/LB is from ignition switch and W/PK goes out the truck and splices back into R/LB.

if by fsb you mean ford small block, an explorer 5.0L is a ford small block... you don't need to use an explorer engine.

It's a felpro, I got the same one from autozone (PN OS34508R).

I pulled a pan off an SOHC while it was still in the truck (it's not going back in), and it's probably about the worst way imaginable. Good chances that if you can tolerate putting it back together, it's going to be such a pain in the ass to get everything back in place that you'll be right back...

Key ON Engine OFF (KOEO) = 35-45 psi - Engine Running @ Idle = 30-45 psi for EFI 1986 2.9L

If it's getting good spark off the coil, but not a plug, it's either going to be distcap/rotor, wires, or poor ground. 194 bulb, bend out the leads and put it into an injector plug to check for injector pulse.

it should blink on #1 no matter what. It will fire, just at the wrong time. Make sure the block is grounded well, and check behind the engine for anything that might have been missed. If the coil plug was taken out, take a look there too or damaged terminals or corrosion. What I do for tdc is...

lol should have just put the plug back in. it will be relatively tough with the plugs in on compression. and the engine being "blown" probably isn't helping either.

normally you pull the bottom of the dust cover from the trans, and access the torque converter nuts from there. There will probably be 4 nuts. Turn the engine clockwise to get to the next one until they are all removed.

Depending on what year that's from, it might have a filter in it, it might not. It's actually a fuel reservoir.

I have a good '88 auto computer. It's not entirely interchangeable with an '87, but it will get rid of the EGR. EDIT: I am also tearing apart an '88 truck if you need anything.

Hook it up to the air cleaner.