So I've been working on cleaning and doing a soft rebuild on this motor and as I prepare to get it all wired up (remember I'm essentially converting it from a 2000 to a 1997 electronically) I come to the Camshaft Synchronizer and Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. The 2000 uses a 2-wire CMP sensor (sometimes referred to as a CKP or CPS) and the 1997 a 3-wire. Initial suggestions were that the CPS simply needed to be changed but after lots of research (always fun) I've learned that when converting to the 3-wire CPS it isn't as simple as swapping the sensor so I wanted to offer what I've gleaned in case someone else may be faced with similar issues...
Anyhow, the differences in the CPS and matching synchronizer are more significant than the number of wires. I've learned those wires actually do stuff... who knew? Anyways, both CPS are of the Variable Reluctance Synchronizer (VRS) type. The 2-wire CPS is used with a VRS whereas the 3-wire is used with the Hall-Effect VRS... the CPS' and synchronizers ARE NOT interchangeable as the signals produced are significantly different when compared to one another not to mention the rotating "vane" atop the block mounted synchronizer is of drastically different size and thickness when comparing the two. Both synchronizers produce A/C current. The VRS produces a standard speed-sensitive sine wave while the Hall-Effect produces a square sine wave, hence the use of three wires vice two. The VRS' vane is a single pole (interrupter) ~1/4" in width and 1/8" in thickness and the "Hall" has a larger but thinner "c-shaped" semi-circle vane approximately 1" in length and 1/16" in thickness.
I was forced to review all of this because once I learned I needed to swap my synchronizer (not difficult) I was confused by the differences I noticed when I was getting ready to remove the old and "stab" the new one... without the handy-dandy little tool. Again not too difficult, simply a matter of making a few marks and going at it but I wasn't sure where, in relation to the synchronizer vane I needed to mark... the middle of the vane, the leading edge of the vane, the back edge of the vane. The answer is this:
If you have to change from a VRS to Hall-Effect synchronizer and do not have the tool, mark the position of the synchronizer relative to the placement of the old one in the block and make a matching and corresponding mark on the replacement Hall synchronizer (be precise). Next bring the motor to TDC #1 cylinder (the VRS vane will align right in the middle of the "window") and make a mark on the block and synchronizer body relative to the center of the VRS vane (transpose this mark to the very same position on your new synchronizer) - you now have two marks on your block that will tell you where to land both the synchronizer body (already marked) and vane. Remove the old synchronizer and DO NOT rotate the motor. Your goal is to stab the Hall-effect synchronizer into the position that will leave the leading edge of the vane aligned with the "vane" mark you made previously on the body. Holding the new Hall-effect synchronizer in your hand, rotate the shaft counter-clockwise until the leading edge of the vane aligns with the mark you previously made being sure to hold the vane in place as you "stab" the synchronizer. Start ~15 degrees counter-clockwise from where you want to land the leading edge of the vane then you'll need to rotate the synchronizer clockwise ~15 degrees into the motor as it engages the teeth, being sure not to allow the vane to shift orientation. The body of the synchronizer can and will move... no biggie, just adjust it after your synchronizer is seated until the mark you made on the body lines up with the mark on the block. If all is done correctly, the synchronizer will look to be in the very position as the old one and the leading edge of the Hall-effect vane will line up with the mark you made on both the block and housing.
I'm sure in my head this all makes sense - if not, hell at least I have it for posterity. Maybe everybody already knew all of this stuff but I didn't and I'm betting someone else out there will have to deal with it at some point so here it is...
Or I guess you could just get the damn tool from OTC or SirTools... eBizzle has'em for $30.
Anyhow, I hope this helps someone...
D2