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Ball joints


adsm08

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Tie rod ends are cheap and if you take them off you need an alignment. If you need rod end boots, just get rod ends. If the boot is torn the ball and cup joint inside it probably damaged already anyway. The grease doesn't stay in there long once the boot is gone.

Think about a hip joint with no cartilage

For wheel bearings, get both the inner and outer. Don't forget the inner dust seal. It is really easy to destroy them taking them out. I find the best way to install the seal is to find a piece of 1/4" plate that covers the whole seal, set the seal in the hole, set the plate on top of it, and then give it a good what with a 2 lb hammer.
 


tjs4x4

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Ok, I will replace the entire tie rod ends, with boots. I only need to do the front end suspension as I have had the rear end done last year. But what about the u joints? How do I know what size I need????


Ok, I took some pix of the front suspension. Tell me what I am looking at. I KNOW about the coil springs, the brake lines, but not real certain about the rest.




 

Shran

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Ok, I will replace the entire tie rod ends, with boots. I only need to do the front end suspension as I have had the rear end done last year. But what about the u joints? How do I know what size I need????


Ok, I took some pix of the front suspension. Tell me what I am looking at. I KNOW about the coil springs, the brake lines, but not real certain about the rest.
I really think you need to take a step back and think about this project... more specifically if you are comfortable taking your truck apart this far. If you have any doubts then just have a shop do it...seriously.

After you have thought about it and if you decide to fix it yourself, just DO IT. It is OK to ask questions but the best way to learn this stuff is to dive in and get the parts you need as you go. Just trying to be realistic here, replacing all the stuff you're talking about is a LOT of work for someone who doesn't know what they're doing. :icon_thumby:
 

chrwilkins30

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Thats the way i did it. when money is low and somethings needs fixed you have to just figure it out. you dont need any major tools. the ball joints and a press thats it..you could even get and electric impact like i did from autozon for 60 bucks and it works great.
 

tjs4x4

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I got a really good idea of how to do the ball joints after reading thru some articles and some writeups I've read through. I just figured since I'm in that far I might as well replace what I can so I don't have to tear it all back down again.
I just need to know where I can find the u joint measurements and tie rod end measurements.
 

Shran

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Just take the axle shaft or tie rod end in to the parts store and let them figure it out.
 

tjs4x4

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Lol easy to do when u have more than one vehicle to drive. This is my only rig now. Guess I can measure it myself.
 

xr75er

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you've got a d35 front end and that's all the parts store needs to know. no size problem unless the clerk is an idiot. :icon_confused:
 

tjs4x4

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LOL, I was going to say something similar. Doesn't seem like too many of the name brand stores have employees that know a thing of what they're selling.
 

Shran

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I did some checking with O'Reilly about your u-joints. I guess there are different u-joints depending on gear ratio. According to them you need:

With 3.45 or 4.10 gears:
Precision brand - part #466 (greasable)
Precision brand - part #436 (non greasable)

With 3.27, 3.55 or 3.73 gears:
Precision brand - part #377 (greasable)
Precision brand - part #371 (non greasable)

Hope that clears things up for you. I don't know what AutoZone goes by. NAPA also sells Precision u-joints and I have had good luck with them, so that is probably what I would get. I was not aware that gear ratio mattered; it seems kind of bizarre but that's Ford for ya.

BTW, about your tie rod ends - there are two listed - one left, one right in any brand - you need one of each, they ARE different, and have different size shank and thread.
 
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tjs4x4

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Now to find my gear ratio lol. It's a 5 speed 4wd, don't know if that helps.

Guess I will just have to do some measuring later on with the tie rod ends.
 

Shran

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The metal tag on either axle will tell you. Bottom line should begin with something like "4 10" or "3L55" - the L on a rear axle tag denotes a limited slip and the other numbers are your gear ratio. The first number might be hidden under a bolt so you may have to remove said bolt to see it.

Don't bother measuring the tie rod ends, just buy one of each. You need both.
 

tjs4x4

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Ok, I will check the tags. The metal tag that I pulled off the rear axle housing when I did the gasket is just about unreadable lol. Will see if I can read it tho.
 

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