did the explorer d35 swap into my b2 have a few questions though

[koomz]

so over the weekend i plunked in a d35 out of a 92 exploder into my 86 b2..which has a 4" trailmaster lift.
and during the week im gonna to 8.8 rear...i know about having to weld on new perches....but heres my questions..

#1-how do i know how much to have my front drive shaft shortned and do i need a front explorer drive shaft end(u-jont) or does the b2 end(u-joint) work
#2-for the rear same question..change the drive shaft end to the diff..? and do i need to shorten it.?
#3-my camber is crazy off..is there enough play in the diff to correct this at the 12point camber bolt and the 1 1/8 bolt on top..?or are shims required.
#4-true or false--explorer leafs wont sag..? when intertwined with b2 leafs. and some lift is gained..?
#5-true or false a explorer 10" flywheel and starter will bolt into a 2.9L standard tranny and block...and whats the benifit ...?

any help will be great thanks..

 

[mjonesjr]

1. Your best bet is to measure. However, many people have only had to take 1" off their BW1350 front drive shaft for it to work. You wont have to swap u-joints.

2. I got a new u-joint plate for my BII when I put the Explorer 8.8 in it. Any drive line shop can get you one. If you use the Explorer rear drive shaft, it will have to be shortened.

3. You will need an alignment and maybe a camber bushing.

4. All springs sag. The Explorer leaf springs will give a BII about 2" of lift; no need to mix the BII leafs into the Explorer leafs.

5. The 10" 4.0 flywheel will bolt to a 2.9 block. You will also have to use a 4.0 clutch and starter and then re-wire the starter solenoid (I have done this to my BII, so I have a wiring diagram if you need it). The benefit from this is a stronger clutch setup.


Sounds like most of the modifications you are doing or want to do I have done to my BII. Just ask, and I will help you out.

 

[koomz]

thanks mjones ...so for the drive shafts stock b2 front will work shortened and the stock rear will fit in length just need to change the ujoint end--correct..?

i will do explorer leafs then ..thank you.and i really like the sounds of a 10'' clutch and flywheel...how do u like yours...better..?
and yes would love a diagram-fynetyga@hotmail.com...thanks
alignment i will pay to have done aswell...thanks

one more question....my front shaft looks really close to the cross member should i knotch and box it out...or does it never hit for some flukey reason..?

 

[mjonesjr]

Just swap out the u-joint flange. It is easier and cost about $20.

I like the larger clutch. Since I wheel my BII, a larger clutch to dissipate the heat better was a good option for me.

The front drive shaft wont hit the cross member.

Here is that diagram I have.

 

[koomz]

awesome will do thanks mjones your life saver bro...totally just put my project back on track....for the explorer leaf swap doi need different u bolts made up?
and i have a standard 5spd so which t-case would be backing it up..

 

[mjonesjr]

You wont need new u-bolts for the leaf spring swap, but you will for the Explorer 8.8 swap.

You have a BW1350 transfer case now.

 

[koomz]

awesome just calling around now for the ujoint flange.....do u know exactly what size of ubolts ill need for my 8.8 swap...?

 

[mjonesjr]

You will need 1/2" diameter. The inside dimension of them is 3-1/2". It all depends on what you do as far as lift.

 

[koomz]

rear 8.8

You will need 1/2" diameter. The inside dimension of them is 3-1/2". It all depends on what you do as far as lift.

so mjones i pulled the 7.5 last night and am getting ready to weld perches on for the 8.8...it looks like i need to grind off the old perches o the 8.8 so the ubolts will clear ...right?

also the 7.5 brake line that i pulled off the backside of the drum plate doesnt thread into the 8.8 backside of the drum plate...do i just tap it..?or us there just different males ends i should be to adapt my b2 lines into the 8.8?

 

[mjonesjr]

You will have to remove the factory spring perches off the 8.8. Don't forget shock mounts also needed to be welded on the 8.8.

Bend yourself a new set of brake lines. They are about $15 for both sides and you bend them yourself.

 

[koomz]

thanks

You will have to remove the factory spring perches off the 8.8. Don't forget shock mounts also needed to be welded on the 8.8.

Bend yourself a new set of brake lines. They are about $15 for both sides and you bend them yourself.

ok thanks...send me ur email addy ill send u some progress pics.

 

[mjonesjr]

Just post them up here. Everyone will want to see them.

 

[koomz]

hey mjones

Just post them up here. Everyone will want to see them.

i posted em ...did ya see em..?...have q for u ...will the exploder d-shaft fit to the 1350..? and 1350 is the stock t-case right?

 

[mjonesjr]

The Explorer front drive shaft will not fit on the BW1350 transfer case.

The BW1350 is the stock transfer case in the BII's.

I didn't see your pictures. Post a link here.

 

[koomz]

the rear

The Explorer front drive shaft will not fit on the BW1350 transfer case.

The BW1350 is the stock transfer case in the BII's.

I didn't see your pictures. Post a link here.

what i meant to say was...should i use the rear bronco shaft or the rear exploder...which one is better and/or cheaper but still effecient.?.and since i had a 4'' trailmaster lift ..is using exploder rear leafs gonna do me any good even?.im gonna need em arched ?..or packed..?or just add sum blocks to my exsisting lift for the sag.?

 

[koomz]

more pics

what i meant to say was...should i use the rear bronco shaft or the rear exploder...which one is better and/or cheaper but still effecient.?.and since i had a 4'' trailmaster lift ..is using exploder rear leafs gonna do me any good even?.im gonna need em arched ?..or packed..?or just add sum blocks to my exsisting lift for the sag.?

more pics--
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38419