Need Some Driveshaft Advice

[Clem]

I have a CV-4 CV Flange and Pinion flange drive line that I just removed from my 86 B2.
It weighs shy of 20#'s and is under 48" long.
Where is PDX, (Portland Airport?)
The DL is like the one in this link. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/driveshaft_types_files/image014.gif
Email or PM if you are interested, most of this depends on shipping from Yakima.

Ray

 

[901wd]

advance auto and or auto zone sell GKN, CV, shafts for around 100 bucks.

 

[Clem]

advance auto and or auto zone sell GKN, CV, shafts for around 100 bucks.

Where might that be, the complete shaft on AZ.com is $300+

Ray

 

[NXD 5150]

I run a chopped down ranger driveshaft with single joints on each end with no vibrations at all. I have about 6" of lift, but I also corrected the pinion angle.

 

[Clem]

Correcting the pinion angle is the key to great drive line/u-joint life.
The front drive shaft from an X is almost identical to the CV-4 CV Flange and Pinion flange drive line that I just removed from my 86 B2.
I am going to use one X shaft in the front and another, cut down for the rear of my B2 when it goes back together. I am not sure if I will have to cut it for the rear or not, will know more when the engine/trans/transfer are back in with 8.8.

Ray

 

[broncogirl]

Got a Driveshaft - Don't Know Which End is Which

I got an APU shaft with single u-joints at each end. One end has the u-joint on a short, skinny splined shaft that slides within the main shaft body to accomodate the axle travel and the other end has the u-joint welded to the main shaft body. I'm not sure which end goes to the transfer case and which goes to the axle, though. Anyone know for sure?

Thanks for all the other advice - I appreciate the lively thread. I have to admit that much of it was over my head and I didn't want to obsess on learning everything there is to know about a part before touching it (as is my inclination). It was reassuring, though, to hear from those running u-jointed shafts without double cardons and with no problems at freeway speed. So, I bought a drive shaft directly from automotive parts unlimited on ebay for $175 with cheap shipping. This was absolutely the cheapest new or reman I could find. Others are selling the same shaft (by APU) for twice the price or more. Before I bought it, they assured me it is spin-balanced and suitable for highway speeds. It looks real nice, has good travel, and went in easily.

However, I'm worried I installed it backwards. My old GKN CV-jointed shaft looked symetrical - two CV jointed ends with the main shaft centered between the two. It had a label for which end went to the transfer case (so I guess that was important) but my new one does not. Since the new one is not symetrical, I'm thinking the orientation might be even more important.

Thanks!

 

[BlackBII]

It doesnt really matter...but it's a good idea to have the splines closest to the T-case, to lessen the possibility of water/mud etc from getting in there.

 

[dangerrangerstx]

put the truck in 4wd crawl under and wiggle your drive shafts front and rear. to see whats loose the rebuild it, theres nothing like leaning how to fix a carnigain/cv drive shaft. an impact sock and a 3 lb mini slege will be you friend

 

[broncogirl]

Thanks BlackBII! I guessed right.

If I had more time, I'd have fun rebuilding the GKN CV joints as dangerrangerstx recomends. I plan to tear into it just for fun and curiosity, but that main shaft is so scrawny and rusty, it doesn't seem worth the money and time to rebuild. I was glad to find a beefy replacement with easily replaceable u-joints and especially glad to spend just 20 minutes to remove and replace - just in time for snowboarding!

 

[NMB2]

It doesnt really matter...but it's a good idea to have the splines closest to the T-case, to lessen the possibility of water/mud etc from getting in there.

i actually run mine splines down because that side is stronger.

 

[Jspafford]

Thanks BlackBII! I guessed right.

If I had more time, I'd have fun rebuilding the GKN CV joints as dangerrangerstx recomends. I plan to tear into it just for fun and curiosity, but that main shaft is so scrawny and rusty, it doesn't seem worth the money and time to rebuild. I was glad to find a beefy replacement with easily replaceable u-joints and especially glad to spend just 20 minutes to remove and replace - just in time for snowboarding!

I too was amazed at first when I saw how small the factory shaft is.

 

[broncogirl]

i actually run mine splines down because that side is stronger.

Uhoh, more controversy... Not thrilled about crawling under again in my very muddy driveway. Sounds like this isn't real important in my case, though - right? It's usually me crawling under the bronco and not the bronco crawling over rocks and busting stuff up. I'm thinking I'm more likely to eventually wear it out with all the fine gravel grit they use for snow around here.

I am still curious, though, why it's better to have the stronger end at the axle instead of at the transfer case. Does it have to do with the torque, etc. under normal function, or is it an impact thing - like the axle end of the shaft is more likely to directly hit a rock and possibly get busted by the impact?

I'm also curious why the slip end would be considered stronger than the solid end. With it's skinny shaft, I'd guess that it is less likely to withstand various sorts of hits or torque forces the shaft might encounter.

 

[4x4junkie]

If you're rockcrawling, that end of the shaft can take a harder hit from a rock than the thinwalled tube that makes up the other end.
If it's just a winter driver (or will never be used for anything more than mild offroad use), you can leave it how it is :icon_thumby: