rear drive shaft

[tomisb]

How much lift can i have before i need to modify the rear driveshaft? Ive got the stock toulip style cv shaft and im planning on modding a explorer shaft to fit but thats after the lift.

 

[--weezl--]

how much are you planning on lifting it?

 

[tomisb]

I havent decided yet. Im peicing together my SAS right now and i just was curious if i lifted it X amount i would need a different shaft. Im planning on using lifted YJ leafs up front and i already have comanche main leaft out back and its sitting level now. I might even inboard the rear leafs so they are under the frame like a YJ. And that will net me more height with the springs i have now.

 

[Surrey]

Well the CV shaft will get you 2-3 inches, at best.

 

[tomisb]

Thats what i figured. Thanks.

 

[4.0B2]

get rid of the cv now.. or it'll die and leave you stranded. i drove home w/ FWD only 2wice b/c of it...

 

[tomisb]

My plan is to get a couple exploder drive shafts and piece together a good rear shaft. Any perticular modle or year i should look for?

 

[--weezl--]

you should be able to get more than 2 inches out of a cv driveshaft... your standard cv axle shaft (diff to hub) can go about 2" extra, and your driveshafts are much longer, so the same lift, will increase the angle of the joint by less than that of the same number of inches on a shorter shaft (axle shaft)

like everyone else has said, it's a crap shaft, but 2-3 inches of lift, i wouldn't worry about it immediately... just keep checking for play in it, it SHOULDN'T fail without warning... if play is noted, make sure you get a new shaft on the double

 

[Surrey]

Hes talking about a SAS swap and shit... No way hes only doing 3" of lift.
For his application, it is clearly in need of replacement.

 

[4.0B2]

yeah i knew mine had like an 1/2th of an inch of play in it.. should have changed it immediately

my shaft is a 93 4x4 ex's shortened w/ 2 front flanges on it.. that way it bolts to the 7.5

honestly if you got the dime i'm thinking tom woods custom.

 

[--weezl--]

good call surrey...

even still, i personally would chance it, and just check every week or so, for play, as long as it's not binding up, at full droop, it shouldn't have spontaneous failure... but danger is my middle name...

that being said, regardless of your shaft, you should be checking your u-joints for play before taking ANY wheeling trip, or long road trips, along with checking tires for abnormal wear/cuts in the sidewall, all of your balljoints and tie rod ends, pitman arms, radius arms, shocks, and all of your applicable fluid levels... though it's much easier said than done... last time i checked my front diff was when i changed the fluid... lol

 

[Surrey]

good call surrey...

even still, i personally would chance it, and just check every week or so, for play, as long as it's not binding up, at full droop, it shouldn't have spontaneous failure... but danger is my middle name...

This sounds like someone who hasn't experienced the misery that is the CV shaft...

Plus when you blow that, you are now relying on a d28 to get you home. (I guess not in the case, 'cause hes doing a SAS, but for others...)

 

[tomisb]

So will any explorer rear shaft work if I shorten it and put front flanges on it

 

[--weezl--]

honestly, surrey, as long as you check it, you shouldn't ever be stuck in that situation... regardless, it should be a u-joint shaft, as soon as possible, but if money is tight, the cv will work for now...

you could shorten it and put a ujoint flange on, but i would just go get one the right length from a jy, it will probably be cheaper than getting an old one re-worked to be what you want it to be

 

[Surrey]

Well I am going to temporarily run the cv driveshaft in a week when my 4" coils show up. I will let you know if I blows up before I can replace it...if it doesn't, I will probably hold onto it for spare parts, for when I bend the other one on a big rock...

 

[4x4junkie]

So will any explorer rear shaft work if I shorten it and put front flanges on it

Use a double-cardan Explorer front driveshaft (the shaft will need to be shortened approx 2" if you have the M5OD, FM146 or A4LD trans in your '89).

You'll also need a front yoke off a 1354 t-case to put on the rear of yours, and a rear flange to mate it up with your rear axle flange.

 

[90B24wd]

This is what 4x4junkie is saying: (DIY Cheep Rear D shaft) Also as for the rear flange you will have to find a flange that matches your rear axel. (7.5 or 8.8) On the front you need to beware that their is a fine spline and a coarse spline slip yoke. Only the coarse spline yoke will work with this shaft that I know of. And they come in different lengths. The longer slip yoke can be used for a shaft 31 1/4 or 3" longer. I am not sure if the shorter slip yoke can be used with the FM145 trans. I just made 4 of these shafts this past week.:icon_thumby: Shafts did not have to be cut shorter.
Not sure if my posted link will work? http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=2b9b7663fffe6f7b0539c9b030863562&topic=926.msg7932#msg7932
You will find this front driveshaft on most broncos II's, rangers, and explorers with
a Dana 35 front axel. On the earlier Dana 35's some will not have this shaft.

 

[ksum25]

I have a 88 BII that had the CV type driveshaft. I installed a 2" block in the rear and the driveshaft blew out just taking it around the block. I went to the junk yard and pulled a driveshaft off a 85 or so bronco II along with the yoke off the transfercase and it bolted up with no problems.

 

[--weezl--]

i'm going to guess your driveshaft was on it's way out to begin with

 

[ksum25]

Well the CV driveshaft held up but the boots are what went out causing a huge mess. Soon as I hit the first dip in the road I felt a pop and upon inspection the boots were torn from getting pinched. Being that it happend on the road I did not want to get stranded while out in the middle of nowhere so I went with a more common driveshaft just in case if I had to get parts from someone on the trail. I would rather change a u-joint than a CV boot.