Removing 2.9L Fuel Rail?

[masterelyt]

Can anyone give me some information about how to remove the fuel rail and injectors from a 2.9L? I've removed all the bolts I could see and there was a clip on each injector that I removed but I'm unsure of how to take the whole thing off so I can finally unbolt the lower intake manifold. Any thoughts or advice?

 

[Earl43P]

Mark each injector plug location, remove the two rail bolts at the bottom underneath and wiggle the rail up. Only thing holding it after you remove its two bolts is o-ring pressure from each injector. Same for the injectors, o-ring pressure. They may pop out with the rail.

 

[masterelyt]

OK thanks I'll give it a shot now and get back to you.

 

[masterelyt]

Turns out the injectors were just in there pretty tight, pried at each one with a flat head and they all came out, thanks! Any idea how to get the distributor out?

 

[joelzkins]

dude im doing the exact same thing to my 89b2. if u can figure out how to remover the distributor please post it. i wanna advance the timing on mine. its all the way in the back..... sigh.... mine is running on 4.5 cylinders so i spent 320 after cores and bought new injectors.

 

[b2rich]

Turns out the injectors were just in there pretty tight, pried at each one with a flat head and they all came out, thanks! Any idea how to get the distributor out?

remove bolt, pull.
if in doubt, check Chilton or Haynes.

 

[eclipse2001gt]

go with the Chilton it will give you more information about it. And it goes into more detail then the haynes does.

 

[Psychopete]

Turns out the injectors were just in there pretty tight, pried at each one with a flat head and they all came out, thanks! Any idea how to get the distributor out?

The hard part isn't getting it out, it's getting it back in that's going to give you grief. 13mm bolt in the back, loosen and pull the dist out. Get the engine to TDC before you do, so that you can get it close when you put it back in. Try and remember how it was clocked, or mark it. Don't want to get it 180 degrees off. Upper intake would need to be taken off (for the other poster). Get a new plenum gasket, can try and reuse it, but good chance it will create a vacuum leak (BTDT).

 

[adsm08]

remove bolt, pull.
if in doubt, GET A BIGGER HAMMER.

Fixed that.:icon_thumby:

That's actually what the Ford shop manual says. Yup, bigger hammer.

 

[masterelyt]

Thanks a lot guys, you have really helped so far in this project, I've just removed the upper intake, the distributor, and now the lower intake and i'm needing to make a trip to the auto parts store before I can continue.

Can anyone here tell me what kind of "bit" I need to remove the cylinder head bolts? It's almost like a giant torx, but I'm unsure of what size and I'd hate to have to buy an entire set just for this job.

By the way in case you're wondering, I'm just tearing this engine down to the block, gonna see if the pistons and cylinders are in okay shape, and if so I will rebuild the top end to abolish that nasty lifter tick.

 

[adsm08]

Head bolts are a T-55 bit. Don't buy the Lysle "impact" ones that Sears sells. They aren't made very well and are very brittle. I have snapped many of them off by hand. They aren't suitable to removing head bolts. For high-torque applications I'd stay away from Craftsman too, I have a lot of those, and they never seem to fit right. They round off the star boss.

If you can find a dealer, spring for the Snap-On unit, they are strong, they always fit right, and they don't break off.

 

[masterelyt]

Thanks very much for your reply! And as far as tool brand goes, I work at an auto parts store and can get Jet tools for virtually half price. I know Jet makes high quality tools and if strength is a concern I will definitely spend a little more money for the right one.

 

[masterelyt]

So I can confirm that the socket is in fact T-55, I'll remove the heads when I can get some time and I'll keep you guys updated on the progress!

 

[moogvo]

Do yourself a favor and clean out the intake while you have it out. It gets a mountain of built up crud inside. I used aerosol paint stripper in mine and then followed up with water to rinse it all out. it takes a few applications, but it is worth it in the end to get all of that crud out of it. Make sure to take all of your sensors out before spraying the stripper into it! Your head set should come with all of the gaskets to reassemble all of the sensors to the intake.

As for the distributor, I marked mine on the engine and marked where the rotor button inside was when I took it out. I didn't mess with putting the engine to TDC. As long as you get it back in the same way it came out, you are fine...

This thread makes me want to do another B2!!!

 

[masterelyt]

I'll take your notes into consideration and once I finally rack up the money for a head set and possibly head machining I'll get her going again. As for the distributor, I'll be turning the engine over so a mark on the block where the distributor won't work, I'll just time it from scratch once all is said and done.

 

[masterelyt]

I'll take your notes into consideration and once I finally rack up the money for a head set, cam and lifters, and possibly head machining I'll get her going again. As for the distributor, I'll be turning the engine over so a mark on the block where the distributor is won't work, I'll just time it from scratch once all is said and done.

 

[masterelyt]

Oops I meant to edit that first comment not add another one.....

 

[moogvo]

If you wind up needing to replace your heads, I got mine from Cylinder Heads International in Texas. No up front core fees and free shipping back to them. They were the 89TM castings. I had good luck, so I thought I would pass it along. IIRC, I paid like 375 for both including shipping both ways.

 

[masterelyt]

I'm not sure if I will have the same luck as you, because I live in Canada I guess if they ship internationally I'll be okay but I'll have them priced out at the auto parts place that I work at, I get a decent deal there! And if you don't mind answering me something.... If the heads are bad and have been leaking coolant into the oiling system... won't extensive bottom end work be required to prevent bearing failure and such?

 

[adsm08]

Nah, just change the oil about 7 times in a day. You will be good.