Stone crusher steering system

[The_Dealer]

wouldnt it work better to have a solid tie rod(no pivots in the middle) and have sort of a short draglink to connect to that and the pitman arm?

im trying to figure out what makes my tires go like this / \ when i park with the wheels turned

 

[4x4junkie]

im trying to figure out what makes my tires go like this / \ when i park with the wheels turned

If the ackerman angle is a little off (and it usually is), it can cause a small amount of jacking of the suspension while the wheels are turned. Nothing really to worry about. It's also possible you're just seeing the tires leaning due to the caster angle, which is only apparent when turned sharp.

 

[Shran]

wouldnt it work better to have a solid tie rod(no pivots in the middle) and have sort of a short draglink to connect to that and the pitman arm?

im trying to figure out what makes my tires go like this / \ when i park with the wheels turned

Wouldn't work at all with the TTB setup. What you said would be fine for a solid axle... but since the TTB pivots in the middle, the steering has to pivot as well.

 

[The_Dealer]

If the ackerman angle is a little off (and it usually is), it can cause a small amount of jacking of the suspension while the wheels are turned. Nothing really to worry about. It's also possible you're just seeing the tires leaning due to the caster angle, which is only apparent when turned sharp.

i was mistaking when i turn they go like this \ /, and i can hear my tires kinda slide when im pulling out of a driveway or onto a street

 

[4x4junkie]

I'm sure the Stonecrusher steering with it's longer links would reduce that to some extent by improving the ackerman at the wheels.

Another thing that helps is moving the front axle forward through shimming of the radius arm bushings. This changes the steering linkage geometry in relation to the knuckles in such a way as to improve the ackerman somewhat as well.

Again, it's not something all that detrimental though unless maybe you're doing a delivery service where you'd be making a lot of u-turns and what not.

 

[The_Dealer]

i might try the stonecrusher out, im still wanting to go jeep coils and see how i like that before i go SAS, hell i might even throw in this dam d35 thats always in my way and change the gearing in it

 

[99RangerKrazy]

I'm also thinking of going with the Stonecrusher setup so I don't waste a brand new set of tires...just not sure if I'm gonna have the time to install it (drilling the knuckles and pitman arm out).

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm sure the Stonecrusher steering with it's longer links would reduce that to some extent by improving the ackerman at the wheels.

Another thing that helps is moving the front axle forward through shimming of the radius arm bushings. This changes the steering linkage geometry in relation to the knuckles in such a way as to improve the ackerman somewhat as well.

Again, it's not something all that detrimental though unless maybe you're doing a delivery service where you'd be making a lot of u-turns and what not.

I was under the impression that Ackerman is built into the knuckle. I was told that is why it's best to get an axle/s from a vehicle as close to the same length as your original axle/s. Is this true?
Thanks,

Richard

 

[4x4junkie]

I was under the impression that Ackerman is built into the knuckle. I was told that is why it's best to get an axle/s from a vehicle as close to the same length as your original axle/s. Is this true?
Thanks,

Richard

A certain amount of ackerman is built into the knuckle, yes, but the angle at which the tierod is attached to it affects the behavior of it as well (effectively canceling out a portion of what's built into the knuckles). By pushing the axle forward, you're actually straightening out the linkage horizontally (looking from above), which preserves more of the angle that was originally built into the knuckles.

I've never seen the same axle with different amounts of ackerman built into it for different vehicles though (say, the D44 or 10-bolt front under a Suburban vs. a Blazer). I honestly don't think ackerman is as well-understood by the manufacturers as it should be either, as even today all too many cars I see making a sharp turn in a parking lot or cul-de-sac are usually pushing that outside front tire pretty hard in a sharp turn.

 

[bonedoc]

Definately well worth the money. I believe mine was about $345.00 delivered. It only took about an hour to put in. Just make sure you have a good 3/4" drill bit. WE pulled the pitman arm off to drill it also because it made it easier. Otherwise we then set it to factory specs on the alignment rack. I have to say it handles well, I don't have a steering stabilizer any more either. I'm currently running 31's. Just ordered 32'' BFG all terrains, putting on this week. Will be ordering and installing a James Duff 5.5" stage 3 kit by month's end. Will let you all know how that goes.

 

[dirtcowboy]

Bone doc any pics yet?

 

[4.0B2]

Gotta tease me and bring back the stonecrusher thread back up.... Lol. Yeah letshear some updates

 

[59bisquik]

I am amazed how simple that is compared to the superrunner steering kit for example. Im sure it could be made at home for about half the cost of the kit. Wish I had thought of this setup when I ran TTB.

 

[dirtcowboy]

I still think this setup is great. I looked into getting left handed taps and then the milling costs. Anthony's prices were fine. Hell the Superrunner kit can be replicated with factory bits for waaaayyyy less than the price of the kit. Here's a question, couldn't one use weld in bungs on a "Stonecrusher like" steering setup rather than drilling and tapping?

 

[59bisquik]

Weld in bungs and DOM tubing would be really easy. Buying left handed taps and such is just getting carried away in my opinion.

When I did my SAS steering, I used 7/8 Hiems, 3/4" hardware and 1 1/2 .250 DOM tubing. Just a little cutting and welding...pretty simple.

 

[4.0B2]

I'm gonna make mine.. Can't be hard

 

[4.0B2]

We got any flex shots???

 

[ThatGuy]

Here's your flex shots.

Now, not to step on toes or spark a debate.................but tube and heims have been around a long time. The TTB suspension has also been around for quite some time. As we all know, the aftermarket does nothing to support it. I worked with Anthony to come up with the steering that he now sells. I know it is simple, yet very effective in coping with the steering problems that arise when lifting a TTB suspension. I'm also all for fabrication--it's what I do daily but there comes a time when I gotta step up and say---support those that support you. It's not like Anthony is planning his retirement off his steering systems. He does it in his one car, attached garage at his home. He does it because he loves to wheel and wants to offer a cheaper alternative to what's already out there.

I'm not knocking on anyone for making their own stuff, it's the American way. Every thread that has been put up about the SCS begins with how well it works and how cheap it is then turns to everyone saying how they can make it cheaper. Well all those people could have made it long ago but didn't. If you wanna make your own, go for it but remember to throw a little credit to Anthony and StoneCrusher Steering. After I posted pictures of the steering for the first time, I learned some had tried it before but were unsucessful so it's not like Anthony "created" it. He just made it work.

 

[4.0B2]

Oh I love the system. I just can't afford it right now...

 

[59bisquik]

Dont get me wrong, im not trying to take anything from him. I think its a really nice setup and wish it was around when I still had TTB. Im sure there are alot of folks on here that will be adding this to thier lifted rigs.

Im just a guy who builds everything myself. Most of the time I havent reinvented the wheel, I just look at it and say...I can build that.

Overall, very nice and wish it was around a few years ago. Nice addition to the TTB world.

Add this to Copykats full width D44 TTB setup and it would be a smokin setup!!