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- Aug 14, 2007
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- Location
- Tooele, UT
- Vehicle Year
- 1990
- Vehicle
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.3
Might fab something like this if I keep the TTB... But I also don't like heim joints in single shear.
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anthony has my respect! he's a hero in my opinion. keep up the work on the TTB set up. and i understand what you are saying to. makes perfect sense. i'd much rather buy it. but unless it was like $200 shipped i cant do it right now. and i'd never try to lowball him like that. i know what kind of time it'll probably take and money he has to drop to do it. just my college takes all my money. maybe by the time i get to do my d35 swap i can just order it.remember to throw a little credit to Anthony and StoneCrusher Steering. After I posted pictures of the steering for the first time, I learned some had tried it before but were unsucessful so it's not like Anthony "created" it. He just made it work.
i noticed a difference in the two setup's here. ThatGuy has the heim coming down off the pitman, verses coming up off the pitman like the other setup.
i'd assume coming down off the pitman is the best way to do it, as long as the bolt head doesn't rub the other rod. correct??
Figures I'm the dumbass who put the rod on the wrong side of the arm. Should the bolts go up thru the bottom or down thru the top? I wondered about that when i copied "most" of ThatGuys instructions. I'll git on it tomorrow AM after work!I never noticed this until you posted it. You are correct, the heim should be mounted to the bottom of the pitman arm. There is no way it can touch, the pictures are decieving because they don't show 3-D. The tie-rod actually runs behind the drag link and even at full lock, they aren't close to touching.
These aren't full lock pics but it kinda shows what I'm saying.
Also, just wanted to say thanks for understanding what I was trying to say. I wasn't trying to be a goober about anything but Anthony went out of his way to help me. I owe it to him to help support his product.
This isn't the absolute best steering setup out by no means. You'd need one of them high dollar swingset get ups to be close to perfect. It is however better than factory, easier to istall, and cheaper than the Superlift. I doubt you'd have to worry about the tube unless you are in some serious stuff and heims are cheap enough that you can keep a couple spares with you just in case you needed them. We have kicked around the idea of going with TREs but as many have found out, there is a great deal of machining that has to be done. Anthony doesn't have the necessary equipment to do it and sourcing the jobs increases the price to where no one would pay for it.
Actually it should be whichever way puts the steering in phase best with the axle beams (pivot point of the steering being closest to the same plane as the axle beam pivots so any side-side bumpsteer is minimized).my thought is prob up, the head of the bolt is smaller in height, but if it has no way of touching the tie rod, then either way should be good!!!!
I'll have to look, I don't remember pins with your refurb'd kit, but I could be wrong. Do you pin the heim joints as well? What size, 1/8th?I think technically the bolt should be put in from the top. That way if the nut were to ever come off the bolt wouldn't fall out. Anthony does supply cotter pins with the kit and suggests that you drill through the bolt and nut and insert the cotter pins so that the nut cannot back off. That also makes it legal for those places that allow heims that are "locked".
We installed mine in a hurry and I was laying on my back so I put the bolts in up from the bottom.
you caught me! i did say bolt, but i was thinking of the entire setup, heim on top or bottom as well.Actually it should be whichever way puts the steering in phase best with the axle beams (pivot point of the steering being closest to the same plane as the axle beam pivots so any side-side bumpsteer is minimized).
Unless you have the big Skyjacker extreme drop pitman arm on a short 2-3" lift (an unlikely combo), guaranteed it will be with the linkage attached to the bottom of the pitman arm.
Edit: Just realized you were only talking about the bolt itself, not where the heim goes... my bad.
Also FWIW, I've noticed the majority of those "copying" this setup so far aren't copying it just to "do it cheaper"... They want it with TREs, which SC currently doesn't offer (I would prefer TREs myself as well).
A lot of people use 1-ton Chevy TREs and ream out the knuckles and pitman arm since the Chevy stuff is larger. I'm not sure what your question about the pitman arm is, though. Basically for the best steering, in theory, you should have a pitman arm that drops far enough for both steering links to be in phase with the axle beams - IE at equal angles to each other.instead of building another thread which will likely be posted by the same people as this one i pose a question
if a guy was to build a stonecrusher style steering with TRE's, like i'd like to do, whats the general idea on the pitman connection point? I plan on doing to searching on some TRE's that have the same dimensions, taper, length and such, but hopefully find a larger shank and improve strength, but i'm not familar with steering components enough to understand what a guy can do with the pitman arm part of the system