what transfer case to use?

[4.0B2]

i have an 88 b2 xlt, that i have a 92 explorer drivetrain in, motor trans and tcase. My question is that if i want to change from the electric shift to a manual shift tcase what case do i need to find or can i modify mine to work for it? i'm doing a d35 front with manual hubs and i don't like the elec shift tcase. Also i want to do a 4 to 1 gear set or lower gears for my tcase. can someone lead me in the right direction while i dig deeper on this site. Thanks guys.

 

[adsm08]

I'd just used the manual case. All you really need is the appropriate floor plate (or you can make one like I did), and the shifter.

Also isn't the 1354 case already really close to 4:1 low ratio?

 

[4.0B2]

i honestly don't know. this is why i posted on here. i'm looking at info i've just been at work and aint had time to dig. i'm trying to look at options to have a lower ratio and not go to low in my axles for a dd

 

[4x4junkie]

Stock low range is 2.48:1 (both 1350 and 1354)

If you want gears for crawling, two ways to get it:
Dual transfercase (more effort to install)
Atlas II (more $$$)


I have both (one in each truck). I tend to prefer the dual case setup myself.
The Atlas is pure beef, though with a V6, it is a little overkill. However the Atlas also gives you the option of FWD-only, which you won't have with the dual-case.

 

[4.0B2]

well effort i can come up with easier than money, ole miss is draining me dry. but oh well. i've looked into dual cases today and i'm liking it.. i don't think needing front wheel only is gonna decide for me to spend more money. i'm gonna start looking for 2 cases and make it manual shift tcase.

so does the dual cases help keep the A4LD alive for crawling?

 

[4x4junkie]

For sure it does :icon_thumby:

If you need a case kit, give D.D. Machine a call. Very good quality stuff. It is possible to build your own though (see here if you haven't already).

 

[4.0B2]

I know I might be strange but I'm wanting to keep the auto for now. And wanna keep it from bombing out on me. I've already checked out the link. Think I'm gonna try to hook up with a guy at a local shop here, silverstar customs, and see what he would charge me. Or get with my dad and see if he has time to make one. I gotta find a couple cases first tho. With a doubler and 33s what gears do y'all recommend?

 

[4x4junkie]

4.56:1 if you're running the 4.0L V6. :icon_thumby:

I'd probably go 4.88 though, because you know you're gonna want to put 35s on there once you've found all the new abilities the crawl box gives you lol.

 

[4.0B2]

Lol I'm trying to find the best way of a low cog bronco. What's gas milage with those gears and 33s and 35s? Anyone on here know?? This is a daily driver..

 

[4x4junkie]

Lately I've been getting about 22 MPG, on some occasions 23 HWY with mine, though I have the 2.9L still. I would guess maybe 1-2 less with the 4.0L (which is about what my Ranger does on 4.10s and 33s). This is all at 55-60 MPH... It'll be less if you like to do 75 all the time.

 

[Shran]

Lol I'm trying to find the best way of a low cog bronco. What's gas milage with those gears and 33s and 35s? Anyone on here know?? This is a daily driver..

My fuel mileage went like this...

stock height, 2.9, 5sp 3.45, ~27" tires - 22mpg
6" lift, 2.9, 5sp, 4.10, 33" tires - 14ish mpg
6" lift/SAS, 2.9, 5sp, 4.10, 35" tires - 10ish mpg
6" lift/SAS, 5.0, 4sp, 4.10, 35" tires - around 18/highway. much worse for trail use

Best way to do low COG is to cut your fenders and don't lift a whole lot. I've always wanted to do extended radius arms with really soft, short springs so I could run like 33's and sit low, but have a lot of suspension downtravel.

 

[4.0B2]

yeah after the 8.8 and d35 swap i'm gonna try for my lowest cog build for 33's.. i'm getting about 18 in town with 5 inch lift, 4.0, a4ld, 3.73's. on the road i get about 20ish.. i don't remember really lol. even tho we just talked about it in another thread on here.

 

[4.0B2]

all this other stuff aside...

if i swap from the electric shift 1354 to the stick shift one, does it just bolt in? linkage and all??? is the hole in the floor there? i'm almost sure its not.. can anyone tell me something?

 

[Shran]

Pretty sure the floor plate is different. It is bolt in, yes, but you will want to have ALL of the linkage for both shifters, floor plate, boots, etc.

 

[4.0B2]

i know i'll need everything.. other thing; its an ex's t/case going in a b2. is the 1350 and 1354 linkage the same all way around? b/c of it being a b2 body

 

[kolton]

Hey 4.0, 1351/1354 doubler. Its freakin sweet. I've been trying to find a shop to make the connecting shaft so I can finish mine. Its stupid simple to build. And you WILL love it. Only a few mods to driveshafts and you have to make shift levers. I made a crossmember for mine to hold it in place, its pretty heavy.

 

[4.0B2]

Wanna build me one!!?? Lol I'm considering a doubler seriously.. But for now I need a tcase to work. My elec shift ain't working right

 

[kolton]

Craigslist is your best bet. The 1350M that I have on my bii right now I scored for 50bucks. Junkyards around here are 200 flat rate, so it can get pricey really quick. Don't forget to check out the surrounding areas on the craig. Good luck huntin.

Lol let's just say, that if you don't have your doubler done by the time I get back from bootcamp/job training, then I'd be happy to build you one.

 

[4.0B2]

I'm looking into the doubler. I know I can use the elec for the rear(?) case but I just despise the elec shift. It's let me down to much lol. So for now I wanna find a manual case to replace the elec