Project: Amazing Grace

[CHKNFKR]

I still think the b2 needs a full serving of vegitables

 

[adsm08]

Not in the cards.

I think it is getting a 4.0 clutch and m5od.

Close but not quite

I still think the b2 needs a full serving of vegitables

Only if I find the exact right donor. And have to get my left knee replaced.



No, I was thinking of going 4.0 clutch since I already have a 4.0 for it, but the engine needs rebuilt first. But then I got to thinking. The 2.9 and early 4.0s have a 6-bolt main. The engine I have is a SOHC, with an 8-bolt main. So that would mean I'd have to buy another fly wheel when I go to do the engine.

So for now it will just get a new clutch.



I'm not a huge fan of large displacement V-8 gas engines. I just don't see the point in small vehicles. I don't want a 351, period, and a 4.0 makes better power where it matters than the 5.0.

If I ever get to the point where I can't drive a stick anymore I'll consider swapping in an LS8 engine because I can use a 5R55S with it.

 

[adsm08]

Got the trans out today. Ran into a few new "issues" along the way.

I broke an exhaust bolt off in the manifold. I broke the front CV joint on the rear shaft. And I found a tear in the floor pan under the driver's seat.

I've heard of it happening before, just never seen it for myself. It happened to Heptofite's B2 a while back. Guess I'll have to break out the jumper cables and sacrifice a coat hanger since my grandpa traded his welder for a wood lathe.

 

[jhammel85]

Got the trans out today. Ran into a few new "issues" along the way.

I broke an exhaust bolt off in the manifold. I broke the front CV joint on the rear shaft. And I found a tear in the floor pan under the driver's seat.

I've heard of it happening before, just never seen it for myself. It happened to Heptofite's B2 a while back. Guess I'll have to break out the jumper cables and sacrifice a coat hanger since my grandpa traded his welder for a wood lathe.

Man if I was closer to you, I'd be bringing up my MIG Welder...

 

[wrecking-crew]

Got the trans out today. Ran into a few new "issues" along the way.

I broke an exhaust bolt off in the manifold. I broke the front CV joint on the rear shaft. And I found a tear in the floor pan under the driver's seat.

I've heard of it happening before, just never seen it for myself. It happened to Heptofite's B2 a while back. Guess I'll have to break out the jumper cables and sacrifice a coat hanger since my grandpa traded his welder for a wood lathe.

You can get the boot for the driveshaft. There is 2 more fronts left in Texas I think. (According to my friend) Or just upgrade it to a Napa u-joint replacemnt like what he did after tearing through a new discontinued $30 boot.

 

[4.0B2]

i sure hope he doesn't use the cv driveshaft.... replace that puppy.. get some u-jonts on it!

 

[adsm08]

Ok, long time no post here. Mostly because it's just been too danged cold to work on her with no heat in the garage. Getting home after dark and not having any electricity or light out there doesnt' help either.

Anyway, house-keeping matters. I bought the $30 boot replacement kit from rockauto. The CV drive shaft is staying for now. I have a 1st gen Explorer rear shaft that will get shortened and go in as the replacement when I have the money, but the Ranger's axle swap is taking priority right now because I want to get that done and the body work done before I lose her to the rust. So the B2 is getting the bare minimum to get back on the road for now.

But, new parts!!!!!

I bought the 4x4 shifter being told that the big bolt for the side of the trans was missing. Got it out and looked a bit closer...

Nope, she is very much there. The electric transfer case will not being going back in. The roof console will be staying since I like the map lights and the buttons will be adapted to work seat heaters.

I think I'm gonna put heaters all around in the B2. This will be a luxury vehicle before I'm done.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Just found this...

Had an idea the other day.

I don't like how the rear feels at highway speeds. But the 1st gen Explorer sport was basically the same vehicle. It was only a few inches longer, it weighed about the same, and I'm putting a 4.0 in this thing anyway. But the Sports didn't have the 10 MPH roll-over issues the B2 was demonized for. So what changed.

The only thing that really changed that should have an effect on this is the rear axle. They flipped it over on the Explorers, so now the springs are attached to the bottom of the tipping point of the roll, instead of perched on top of it. This got me to thinking that putting an Ex rear axle assembly, springs and all, in might help the rear end feel at speed without sacrificing ride height. I'm gonna try it.


She needs a tank pump and I think the clutch is going to go soon though. So, not cool.

The Ex's were set up very much different. The frame was wider than the Ranger/BII so rather than mount the springs on the outside of the frame they mounted them under the frame. To make up for that and lower it back to a more realistic height they put the axle above spring. Most of the lift gained by swapping in Explorer springs is gaining back the height lost from fatigue, usually about an inch. It won't make up for the 4"+ you will lose by switching the axle on the spring.

The Explorer had a wider frame, wider axles, heavier springs, shocks mounted wider, longer wheelbase and a lower CG. Even then they had their rollover issues too...

If you do intend on swapping in the Explorer rear, wait on the Explorer driveshaft. On older Rangers (I would think BII's would be similar) they use a much smaller u-joint and have a different bolt pattern on the pinion flange. It would be a bummer to make the Explorer driveshaft fit the 7.5 and then have to change it again to fit the new axle.

I don't want a 351, period, and a 4.0 makes better power where it matters than the 5.0.

Depends on the 5.0... 270lb-ft@2k is enough in the right places for me. Even being the most stupid common roller (non-HO) engine out there it is very fun to drive.

If you don't have it, you may need the plastic spool looking bushing for your 4wd linkage. The added slop between your lever and the peg on the t-case's lever might mess with your shifting.

 

[adsm08]

The Ex's were set up very much different. The frame was wider than the Ranger/BII so rather than mount the springs on the outside of the frame they mounted them under the frame. To make up for that and lower it back to a more realistic height they put the axle above spring. Most of the lift gained by swapping in Explorer springs is gaining back the height lost from fatigue, usually about an inch. It won't make up for the 4"+ you will lose by switching the axle on the spring.

The Explorer had a wider frame, wider axles, heavier springs, shocks mounted wider, longer wheelbase and a lower CG. Even then they had their rollover issues too...

If you do intend on swapping in the Explorer rear, wait on the Explorer driveshaft. On older Rangers (I would think BII's would be similar) they use a much smaller u-joint and have a different bolt pattern on the pinion flange. It would be a bummer to make the Explorer driveshaft fit the 7.5 and then have to change it again to fit the new axle.

All valid points. I never thought it would be bolt in, but worst case it can't be any worse than flipping an Explorer axle for use in a Ranger.

And yes, the Explorer shaft will likely wait until I have an 8.8 ready to go it, which is happening at some point anyway.

Depends on the 5.0... 270lb-ft@2k is enough in the right places for me. Even being the most stupid common roller (non-HO) engine out there it is very fun to drive.

True, but I already have a 4.0 SOHC sitting in the garage just waiting to be freshened up. Paid nothing for it. And as I said, I have never cared for large displacement V8's. Some guys just like to see how much they can build out of smaller engines. I work next to an import enthusiast who thinks my 2.9 V6 is a ridiculously large engine.

If you don't have it, you may need the plastic spool looking bushing for your 4wd linkage. The added slop between your lever and the peg on the t-case's lever might mess with your shifting.

I should have everything I need at this point. I took the donor case out of my truck when I did the M5OD/1354M swap a few years ago. I was missing a few things because I lost my shifters and the gate bracket wouldn't have lined up right because it was from an FM145 and the B2 has a 146. Boot/bezel setup was different between 87 and 88 as well and I didn't have the right bezel for the floor. I have a few of the plastic spool units around too. I went to the yard and grabbed all that I could find the one day.

 

[adsm08]

Last time on this build:

The clutch slave gave out, a Y-pipe bolt snapped off in the manifold, the exahust broke into 3 pieces when I sneezed at it, and it was friggin cold outside.


Now:

I got the bolt drilled. It's not out out, but there is a hole in it big enough to put a different bolt in.

I found out that Ford still makes those little discs that go on manual transfer case shifters and attach the lever to the case.

I replaced both boots on the drive shaft. Still hunting for a proper drive shaft. I will find one soon.

But now the big news.....

After 2 hours of fussing, cussing, and searching, a little creative engineering, and a lot of skeeter bites my B2 has, what I consider, the single most desirable factory option available in 1988.

After years of faithful and unfailing service in my Ranger, a few more years of sitting in garages, being traded off to someone else who decided he didn't want it, and then sitting in my garage some more my trust rusty old 1350M is about to go back into service.

That's right, my B2 finally has a manual T-case. Now if only it had a transmission.

 

[adsm08]

Transmission is back in. Once I get the clutch hydraulics finished and the exhaust back in she will be able to move under her own power again.

I can't wait to get this thing buttoned up so I can get back to my non-RBV project.

 

[adsm08]

Wow, keep forgetting to update this.

Trans is in, working, as the 4x4 is manual shift, auto hub now. All works right too.

 

[adsm08]

Big post!!
So look what I found waiting for me in the basement the other day…

Important: this harness contains an internal fuse that cannot be serviced. BS. I service these fuses all the time.
So now we’ll just take some stuff off this thing

Like the lenses

And the wiring.

Bath time

Gotta keep the dogs away from it

Eww!!

Dirty.

Dirty bathwater.

And a nice clean red visor. Gonna have to fix that.

Alrighty, on to the wire-work.

I love these little harnesses. Best mistake Ford ever made. A paired set of plugs and a fuse holder, with about 4 inches of wire to each. I can actually buy the new style of these things that has an extra fuse holder in it for about $15. A single pigtail kit will run at least $25 or $30. Can’t beat that.

Just cut the tape, remove the plastic wrap, and cut to length.

I didn’t take any pics of the paint process. I figured nobody really wants to see another piece of fiberglass getting spray-bombed. I know it’s a 20/20 job, but it still looks better than the rest of the truck.

Alright, I didn’t take any good pics of my wire-up job, but it’s pretty simple. I ran some wires off the visor harness, soldered one of the connectors taken from my little cruise jumper harness to it. Then I put an eyelet on one wire of the other side, and scotch-locked the remaining wire to the power for my marker lamps.

Shoved the visor harness under the door seal and down behind the dash. Just ran it along with the wires for the 4x4 push buttons and the map lights, then put the A-pillar trim back over it.

And, viola, I can now just unplug the lights for my visor if I ever find a need to take the dash out.

Here she is with her new hat.

And the siblings. I know, only 3 lights are working on the visor. I tested it before I bolted it to the roof and found the two burnt out bulbs and moved them to the ends so they are easier to replace once I get new bulbs.

I think the one on the passenger side might actually have a bad socket, but I have a spare harness that I can take a new one off of. We had a truck traded in with a Moonvisor that was broken in two. When they took it off I grabbed it to scavenge some of the undamaged parts. I got the harness with all the plugs, and 4 lenses with 4 pairs of screws.

 

[adsm08]

Broke the Bronco tonight. I was trying to get ready for this impending possible snow storm next week so when I got home I "fixed the window on the Ranger" (Reads "slammed door and held switch until window went up"), did a 4-wheel burn out in the front yard to check the hubs) and then went to convert the B2 to manual hubs.

Started taking things apart and forgot about that little retainer pin in the nut. Long story short, if you don't take that out and use a 4 foot ratchet you can shear the teeth off the pin, crack the nut, and get the pin bound up in it. Then if you are dumb enough to just force the nut off you strip the spindle pretty bad.

Good thing I have 2 more that I just have to pop off my other D-28.

 

[country0001]

Don't break the B2. If you need any other D28 parts, let me know. I've got a spare I'll probably scrap soon.

 

[jhammel85]

I almost did the same thing on a D35 this past weekend. I remembered at the last second...Whew...I would of been screwed if it happened.

Speaking of the impending doom of the FrankenStorm / Snowicane that's headed our way, You just reminded me that i need do my passenger side Spindle Needle Bearing before ever hitting 4wd unless I want a chewed up axle shaft.

 

[adsm08]

Pulled the engine out today to throw the hipo 2.9 from the Ranger in. What a PITA!!!

Y-pipe wouldn't come off, rounded bolts, so I cut it. While I was cutting the problem side the other side rubbed through a fuel line. That's not a huge deal, I can steal that line off the truck which still isn't running and then fix the damaged one with a compression fitting.

Then it wouldn't come out of the vehicle. First it wouldn't separate from the trans (yes, I once again ignored my own advice tried to leave the trans in ). Once I got it off the trans I couldn't get the fan past the core support AND get the clutch past the firewall at the same time, something I know I have done before.

So after fighting it for an hour, during which I hurt my bad shoulder again, I got it tipped forward, pulled the pressure plate and friction disc off, flipped it backwards and was able to pull it up enough to spin it sideways in the engine bay and clear the core support.

Also ripped one of my driveshaft CV boots that are only about two years old.

So a few lessons learned today.

1) Just pull the freaking trans.

2) Don't use the factory 2.9 lift points, they balance it too well and you can't get it to tip.

3) A 2.9 does not weigh 1 ton, and I should not use the 1 ton slot on the cherry picker because the boom is not long enough if I do that.

 

[adsm08]

Well that was a bastard. Had to turn it sideways to get it out and tip it almost vertical to get it back in.

Old engine out


New engine in


Can't quite get the trans back up. Gonna wait until Saturday when I can get some help since I have hurt myself several times on this project and can barely use my right arm right now (I'm right handed, YAY!!).

 

[jhammel85]

Looks like fun times

 

[adsm08]

Looks like fun times

Pfff, shoot me.

I was originally hoping to get the truck running first so I could take my time doing this, but the way the BII has been running is just getting worse and worse. As I've said before I think the old engine has wiped cam bearings, plus it has this rattle around 2500 RPM that sounds like a wrist pin.

Then my wife had the baby and I took the week off to be at home, but since he sleeps most of the day I decided to pull the truck outside and get this done now while I have some time.

Kinda regretting that decision now.

I was also hoping to replace the fuel pumps right now, but the money just isn't there right now.