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So its that time to renew my regestration. I havnt had to go thru DEQ for the last 2, so i had no idea if it would pass or not. never have touched the engine except fluids, plugs, wires, rotor and cap. 140,000 miles. The b2 went thru without a hitch. :icon_bounceblue:

alignments do wonders. however; some say that if you go with a mild 2" lift, all you will need is an alingment. I went with new superlift 132s on the front and exploder springs in the rear, still needed to have a radius arm bushing changed out to adjust for the angle. alot of the guys just do...

if you use the search feature, you will see that there are dozens of topics on this. Also the techsec has a shitload of info. you will also see that you dont need to do stronger axles just to do a lift.

hey, be nice to the guy.:D

Nobody has ever done anything like that. There wouldn't even be anything in the tech section. And I'm sure glad trs has no search function. :D:D

reped :icon_thumby:

you know your driving a Bronco 2 when you are going up a 3% grade, throttle floored, and you look at your speedometer and your doing 35mph. :shok:

:icon_cheers: and no, it still has the 2.9 in it. it still goes around. sounds like a jet, but still goes around. more gutless now than it has been. takes about 1/2 throttle to take off from a stop light. will driving it this way cause other issues later?

Not a converstaion for electric vs belt driven. Mine is shot. along with the fan clutch. I dont want to spend 140.00 for a fan from ford. So i have been looking at this.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-5715/Application/?query=Liter%7c2.9 I see that LMC has one for like 39.99 but it is...

remove bolt, pull.:D if in doubt, check Chilton or Haynes.

ya, and i want to remain an idiot. :D

If i had the time to do it i would. But i need to have the vehicle up and running. And i dont know many people around here that would help me if i ran into issues. the warranty is like 50,000/36 mo. And see...... Im kind of an idiot when it comes to trannies.

My A4ld has been good. But reverse just went out this weekend, along with slippage from 2-3 and rarley hits 4th. forget od. Headed for the shop to get a final decision and possible rebuild. 2000.:annoyed:

Got the T-stat in. No leaks:D. didnt take but about 5 min to get up to about 195ish and the t-stat to open and temp go down to 183ish. drove it around the block a few times and when gauge got to 195ish t-stat would open and temp would drop to 183ish. thanks guys for your input. :icon_cheers:

i just got a new one. Not yet installed. Got it from Napa, made in the US. If i have a problem I will go directly to Furd and get one.

ya, i think from what i have been reading, to cool is what can kill performance and longivity also. The 210 dosn't bother me as much as the 140. i am running a 2" single row radiator. seems to be cooling the fluid just fine. i think yesterday, on my trip to the bay area, it was in the mid 60s...

i do notice the higher temps more when the weather is in the 85+ range.

not sure what termostat is in it, But i know its the original from factory. :shok: i notice that when im on the highway that my temp gauge is running about 140 when im cruising at about 65. When I slow down the gauge will come up to about 160. When the weather is warm, It will go up to about 210...

with my auto. I had the flexplate replaced. Long story short... the after market plate was like 1/16 of a inch to thin and would not allow the starter to engage properly. even replaced the starter. Found a ford b2 flexplate from the dealer, got it installed and everything was good.

Added mine. Not much to look at compared to the others. :blush: Maybe one day. Nice addition Jim. lots of hard work. This thread needs a sticky. Thanks