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Brake cleaner or soak it in Super-Clean and rinse with water. Works great

Nothing will work. Nothing will stop it. If you want it done correctly you will have to replace something. Not like the engine is all that hard to pull. If its not the oil pan gasket its the rear main. If its the rear main you could just pull the transmission out More like "Redneck ways to...

PCV grommets, generic at any parts store

i check at the thermostat housing or right next to the temperature sensor

you replaced the 1 wire sensor and not the 2 wire sensor correct? ground the 1 wire sensor wire and see if the gauge pegs. the 2 wire sensor is for the ECU and the 1 wire sensor is for the gauge and the 1 wire sensor is actually called the sending unit

turn up your idle speed screw, you'll have to play with it a little until the computer can't detect closed throttle anymore the computer detects throttle closed, low load, high rpm. and shuts off fuel during coasting i'd rather just save a little gas lol

hammer on a socket that fits snugly.

i love driving my ranger... i wish i had a B2. last time i drove one was when i borrowed my brothers to pick up my friends and cause mayhem. did a few jumps on the beach and brought it back with the lifters clacking like crazy and barely running. the oil pump pickup clogged up.... it was having...

well without a picture im going to guess... there are usually 2 angled wires for cylinder 4 and cylinder 3.

4bt sounds like the most doable... but very expensive to do the initial swap.

a hammer and a brass punch. don't pry

i think it only needs to be pushed in when you want 4low. i could be wrong since i've never owned one.. only driven them and diagnosed a few. but i have a poor memory

i'd still start with cleaning the contacts on the tcase shift motor.. by far the most common problem with shift issues. the transfer case shift module uses the switch contacts on the back of the motor to sense what position the transfer case is in.

just to be clear you are trying to go into 4low with the transmission in neutral(auto) or pushing the clutch in right? otherwise its probably dirty contacts on the back of the shift motor. remove 3 screws and clean them up

you can make a gasket or use a very light coating of RTV... when i say light coating i mean not enough to squeeze out and flake off which could destroy the engine bearings

yes. and then pull the cluster backwards and let it drop downwards to allow clearance for the input shaft.

you just need a big socket and breaker bar.. you can lock the transmission in 1st and 3rd gear to hold the shafts from turning. either that or a hammer and chisel will unscrew the nut carefully. other than that its pretty easy to get in and out. you have to remove all the internals of the...

i don't have a heater at the shop. i just run the a/c system and it sucks it in. i don't use a can however. OP you can't recharge your R-12 system with those kits. those kits are junk anyway and most contain stop leak which is a disaster. just take it to the shop and get it leak checked...

i love those things. don't forget to reseal the wire afterwards. a haynes manual might show it. someone on here probably knows though. a couple times i've gone to the library and copied pages from their auto repair manuals

run it almost out of gas and remove the tank. it makes it very easy to test the sending unit. you can tap into the wire and watch the resistance change while you add gas, but you won't get to move it up and down. another option you should do it remove the wire and groung it out, the fuel gauge...