1988 BII Build

[dangerranger83]

No oil in the diffs and you drive it?? That's something i wouldn't attempt.

It's good to see it drives.

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[88_Eddie]

i said drove, but it was more like backed it up and drove it forward and made sure the power steering pump was full. probably didnt go but 2 miles per hour. wont hurt anything.

 

[Stang5lgt]

i said drove, but it was more like backed it up and drove it forward and made sure the power steering pump was full. probably didnt go but 2 miles per hour. wont hurt anything.

Yeah it will be fine. They have to get pretty hot to cause a problem I have sold lots of axles and guys would text me after they installed it and say the axle is making this howling noise. I would ask did you put oil in it? And I would get oh crap comment back. LOL One guy drove it like 6 blocks. :icon_rofl: Reason you can get away without oil in them for awhile is they use roller bearings so a lot less friction going on in there. One of my customers actually drove 10 miles and grenaded his Dana 35 since he never checked it. I felt bad so I fixed it for free but made him buy the parts.

 

[brinker88]

Looks good bro. Is it just me, or is your caster WAY off on that front passenger tire? Shock length looks perfect to me.

 

[Stang5lgt]

Looks good bro. Is it just me, or is your caster WAY off on that front passenger tire? Shock length looks perfect to me.

He probably just needs adjust his toe that or he has bad ball joints or both. And you are right shocks look great to me.

 

[88_Eddie]

Yeah it will be fine. They have to get pretty hot to cause a problem I have sold lots of axles and guys would text me after they installed it and say the axle is making this howling noise. I would ask did you put oil in it? And I would get oh crap comment back. LOL One guy drove it like 6 blocks. :icon_rofl: Reason you can get away without oil in them for awhile is they use roller bearings so a lot less friction going on in there. One of my customers actually drove 10 miles and grenaded his Dana 35 since he never checked it. I felt bad so I fixed it for free but made him buy the parts.

i dont care who i buy an axle from. i dont do anything with it until i've popped the diff cover. that's just common sense lol.

Looks good bro. Is it just me, or is your caster WAY off on that front passenger tire? Shock length looks perfect to me.

He probably just needs adjust his toe that or he has bad ball joints or both. And you are right shocks look great to me.

the front pass tire has been giving me issues. i already replaced both ball joints on it. i need to go back and make sure everything is tightened on it. it also needs a real alignment. gonna take it to my buddy at just tires once i get the registration sorted out. my parents let it lapse. i need to move it over to my insurance as well.

i'm just worried about bottoming out the shocks out back. i'll run them and see what happens. also, i was thinking last night, i'm probably gonna toss a 1" block out back (or make my own from 1/4" or 3/16" steel) so i can even it out. you can tell in the pics that the front sits up higher than the back. i'm gonna get some used 33" mud tires and i need more clearance out back.


and tell me what yall think about this, a guy on another forum suggested it

making good progress. I would try too get a drop pitman arm for the steering and lower the track bar to match. You got some fairly steep angles going on that set up. I'd also drill it for a 1 ton chevy TRE while I was at it. This would be better for the continuous angle the steering is goin to see at the box. Is your transfer case have the slip yoke frt output or the slip? Mine is a slip style case. I had to clearence the yokes on my Ranger and B2 when I swapped my axles, but I was also running a low pinion 44.

 

[Stang5lgt]

I wouldn't worry about the TB angle as much as the drag. I don't care what anyone says the angles don't have to match. Double R and Mercs are both different angles. You can flatten drag link out by just moving it back to the bottom of the pitman arm and if need be moving the drag all the way to knuckle like the Merc and Double R setup. If you still get bump steer you might have to move the track bar up on the axle side. I was trying to figure out why you moved it. Looked good where you had it before.

This is what some of the Jeep guys have been using. You can change the height on the axle to fit your needs.

I align all my rigs with tape measure here is vid. I actually measure to the bulge on the inside of the tire. Here is redneck vid to show some dude doing it to his Escort.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBrzXeJnYiQ

 

[88_Eddie]

I wouldn't worry about the TB angle as much as the drag. I don't care what anyone says the angles don't have to match. Double R and Mercs are both different angles. You can flatten drag link out by just moving it back to the bottom of the pitman arm and if need be moving the drag all the way to knuckle like the Merc and Double R setup. If you still get bump steer you might have to move the track bar up on the axle side. I was trying to figure out why you moved it. Looked good where you had it before.

This is what some of the Jeep guys have been using. You can change the height on the axle to fit your needs.

I align all my rigs with tape measure here is vid. I actually measure to the bulge on the inside of the tire. Here is redneck vid to show some dude doing it to his Escort.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBrzXeJnYiQ

i'm for sure gonna run it how i have it, then if i need to take the DL out further, i can. i changed the TB mount for 2 reasons. one, it was too long where it was. i was trying to avoid spending $8 on another weld in bung lol. two, i didnt like the first mount, i was thinking i'd have clearance issues with the cross member. this one is way more stout too.

i need to check clearances at full lock, i may have issues with the DL on top of the PA with the lower radiator hose and the frame. we'll see. gonna work on it after work tonight.

 

[88_Eddie]

slow day at work....i was thinking about rebuilding my front bumper, but i think i'm just gonna do this:

then eventually add a hoop to it for my hellas to mount to:

i'm just gonna cut the sides and move them up to match the bottom of the grill and where i re-cut the fenders. then i can finally mount my d-rings

 

[88_Eddie]

went down to the garage this evening and found a nice larger puddle of power steering fluid. poked around and found this:

somehow the snap ring came out, luckily you can buy that seal and a new snap ring from autozone for 7 or 8 bucks. i'll have to remove the pitman arm as well, so i'm gonna go ahead and toss the drop pitman arm in.

 

[88_Eddie]

got a new seal kit for the pitman arm portion of the steering box yesterday. gonna see if i can fix the old one first, use it if i need to.

gonna start working on redoing my bumper tonight as well. plan is for it to look like this:

 

[88_Eddie]

oh, and i'm workin on a deal for some 3" coils with a 1" spacer for cheap. just need to find time to get them. i think a 3" would level everything out real nice. then i can hang on the 4.5" ones if i decide to go bigger one day or ever get around to throwing a 4.0 in there

 

[4.0B2]

yeah; 4.0, winch, winch bumper, and all that jazz makes a B2 kinda nose heavy lol.. I ended up having to go with James Duff 5.5" EB coils to get me leveled out with the 5" lift I have total in the rear.

 

[88_Eddie]

yeah, i'll hang onto the old ones just in case. this guy on a local forum is selling 3" XJ coils and 1" spacer for $40 together. too good a deal to pass up.

 

[4.0B2]

Watch some of those xj coils, some are stupid soft.

 

[88_Eddie]

i've noticed. i have 4.5" teraflex xj coils in there now, even with the weight of the truck on them, i can squeeze them and make them compress a hair. i was out there tonight, i think they are settling a little bit. the front doesnt seem to high.

and on a side note, i pulled the b2 out tonight just to check some stuff. cranked it up and cycled the steering and the lower pitman arm seal in the steering box blew all the way out. gonna pull the pitman arm this weekend and install the drop arm, then put the DL on the bottom of the pitman arm. while doing that i'll see if i can fix the seal or install the new one. hopefully having less of an angle on the DL will take some stress off.

 

[88_Eddie]

spent some time working on the b2 this weekend. took out the old pitman arm and installed new seals. i figured out that the snap ring didnt fully insert itself because of a spacer that i put in there. works just fine now.

also clearanced the cross member some more, also put the drop arm in.

drove it around some, it's got a bit of bumpsteer to it. so i may need to change some stuff around. thinking i may move the tie rod under the knuckle and leave the DL on top of the pitman arm. i was also thinking i could redo the upper TB mount and lower it some.

also cut up the front bumper, may go another route than what i was thinking above.

 

[88_Eddie]

did some more to the bumper tonight, not sure if i like it yet....

gonna add 2 more pieces

and i've got some issue with the pass front tire, i think i need to reinstall the ball joints

 

[dangerranger83]

If you don't like the bumper then send it to me when finished lol.

My tires did the same thing. Turns out my bearing was taking a puke.

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[adsm08]

and i've got some issue with the pass front tire, i think i need to reinstall the ball joints

So you have been using what, king pins?