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Anyone else use propane for charging A/C


88ranger2.3

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While I wont post exact details on the open forum, I will put together a write up, pm me and I will share more details. Mine looks and acts 100% stock. Never would know without me telling you or venting the a/c refridgerant... just like any other charge you need to vacuum the system down on a hot day to boil moisture out... and verify there isn't a bad leak... plus the compressor needs to work.
 


Explorin94

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You go ahead and do that, and I'll be sure one of my fire trucks will gladly show you how we do things :icon_thumby:

Explorin, you can convert the system over (all it is are two nozzles that thread onto the factory fill valves) Once filled, you can remove the adapters to return it to original looks, but with the newer freon system...
SVT
You do realize that the adapters for the 134 have locktite on them and destroy threards when they are taken off right? All I want is some info and I will decide from there what to do with MY car.
 

88ranger2.3

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I am working away from home right now, but when I get home next week I will get pictures and make a writeup if anyone is interested let me know.
 

tempforce

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don't use propane, it's hard on the compresser, as the propane varies in chemical make up depending on where you live. so you will be guessing your charge.
use one of these products in a r-12 system:
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
http://www.duracool.com/
this way you won't have to convert to a less efficiant r-134a system.
cc
 

v8318cid

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Movement from R-134a to HFO-1234yf is due, at least in part, to the global warming potential of 134. I understand that there are plenty of people who disagree with the research behind global warming and the ozone layer depletion. My advise for those is to do your own research. Look for studies on gradual changes in the ozone's condition (infrared photos taken over the antarctic for example). Examine changes in the weather patterns over the last 50 years, mostly relating to weather extremes rather than just "warming". If you don't find enough evidence to support the claims, then feel free to disagree. I'm not a scientist so I can neither confirm nor deny the claims. Personally I'm just looking for something that has R-134a's cooling capacity with R-12's heat disapation ability.
Most SNAP approved alternatives contain R-134a as a component. While I can attest to some improvements in performance using SNAP alternatives (used Freeze-12 myself once upon a time), if you use a variable orifice tube, you can get just as good results with R-134a. That and it won't invalidate your warranty on any replacement components. I know the alternates claim they will honor the warranty if the part vendor refuses the claim, but has anyone ever put this claim to the test or found it to not be a huge hassle? I'd love to know.
 
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Finally some alternative posts other then don't do it... glad to hear from more people.

I'll be looking forward to seeing you on TruTV's Worlds Dumbest Drivers one night.
Don't forget to fill up your tires with hydrogen too.
If you are that broke to do the repair properly, maybe you should just wait it out.
This is one of the most absurd topics I have read lately.
I know this won't sink in but R409A can replace R12, but you'll need an EPA Refrigerant Certification Card to buy the stuff.
I get the feeling you just started this thread for a laugh.
 
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kimcrwbr1

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Is propane compatible with the oil in the system first off. Propanes ability to transfer heat under the range of conditions is suspect to me. Not only the flammability factor but if you get caught using the wrong refrigerant it is a huge fine especially if someone else gets hurt or dies. I would upgrade to 134a put the right orifice that would be the responsible thing to do.
 

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Is propane compatible with the oil in the system first off. Propanes ability to transfer heat under the range of conditions is suspect to me. Not only the flammability factor but if you get caught using the wrong refrigerant it is a huge fine especially if someone else gets hurt or dies. I would upgrade to 134a put the right orifice that would be the responsible thing to do.

Ammonia, although toxic, has been used as a refrigerant for large commercial A/C systems and propane does have the pressure characteristics to function as a medium temp refrigerant. What happens in a front end crash.....2 lbs of propane escaping quick...add spark and that'll make quite a fireball.
Let's put our hand into a alligator's mouth and be surprised if he bites it off.



http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=propane+tank+explosion&mid=E5A374C43877BC052F31E5A374C43877BC052F31&view=detail&FORM=VIRE6
 
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Is propane compatible with the oil in the system first off. Propanes ability to transfer heat under the range of conditions is suspect to me. Not only the flammability factor but if you get caught using the wrong refrigerant it is a huge fine especially if someone else gets hurt or dies. I would upgrade to 134a put the right orifice that would be the responsible thing to do.

R12 oil is just fine with propane, same oil. 134a uses an ester oil that is not compatible even though some have used mineral based oil with 134a for years and no problems. Technically HFC refrigerants specify ester oil.
 

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Has anyone ever thought of using Nitromethane for a refrigerant....those kind of explosions are fun to watch.
 

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Not really sure what the Hindenburg disaster have to do with using propane in a automotive air conditioning system especially since the the actual cause of that fire remains unknown but, safe to say, propane was not involved. There are propane based R12 replacements such as Redtek 12 and Duracool. I've not used them but I've spoken to other technicians who have and I've never heard of them being the cause of any type of automotive explosion or fire.

The cause of the Hindenburg fire is unknown????????? The blimp was filled with hydrogen and everyone, almost, knows that hydrogen burns FAST. This thread is a laugh sensation at work!!!!
 

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Ok. Here is my usage and explanation. I have had 2 vehicles I maintained with propane. Both have functioned excellently.. for my beater of vehicles where when ppurchased it is assumed the a/c wont work, I refuse to pay someone to check it or fill em. I also feel the coleman fuel propane for camping is good enough for these systems as if it doesn't work I am not out anything. The plan all along is to eventually dual fuel the bronco on propane so I will already will have propane on board. So why not. If it leaks slow over winter so what. A quick fill and$ 2.50 later and I have ice cold a/c. I don't see the one pounder bottles going anywhere, but I could fill it out of bbq tank or my 500 gal lp tank for my house. I plan to refill the drive tanks as well so no big deal. I don't recommend anyone doing this, but it can be done regardless of what anyone else says. For me it is a simple decision.
thanks for the good explanation on propane.:icon_thumby: Im thinking bout converting myself. there's a nat. gas well close to me, 1/4 mile, I can syphon from..got a 100yr lease agreement with Axia/Chesapeak.:icon_cheers:
 

Jason

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1978 is way safer than 1203. And 1203 is already in almost every car on the road today.


People that have knowledge of hazardous materials will understand. Those who don't, will spew conjecture and false opinions.
 

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The cause of the Hindenburg fire is unknown????????? The blimp was filled with hydrogen and everyone, almost, knows that hydrogen burns FAST. This thread is a laugh sensation at work!!!!
Okay, I said it wrong. We all know why it burned once it started. What they don't really know is what ignited it. Really a moot point I guess.
 

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Okay, I said it wrong. We all know why it burned once it started. What they don't really know is what ignited it. Really a moot point I guess.

This is a little known fact......someone knew the blimp had a hydrogen leak somewhere and went looking for it with a lighter. They found the leak! :icon_thumby:
 

tempforce

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the Hindenburg was covered with: powdered aluminum in a mixture along with cellulose butyrate acetate and iron oxide. This mixture burns EXTREMELY easily. one little spark of static electricity and it flashes. after the fire starts, the hydrogen bags burned through, the gas mixed with air and you know the rest of the story...
 

aspevacek

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People do relize that swapping from R12 to R134 is not just a swap pressure valves and send the car down the road with new refridgerant. You should swap all rubber lines to a barrier type hose. Then all metal lines, condensor, and Evap core should be flashed to ensure all old oil contamination is removed from the system. The compressor also has to be redone in order to make sur eold oil i sremoved.

The other thing to consider is the operating pressures of R12 are a fair amount less then those of R134. I was looking at that new refridgerant to see if we will once again see a jump in operating pressures on the AC systems.

The Freeze 12 type products that are on the market are a propane base. Alot have leak sealer and other things added to them. When I was working in the automotive industry I saw a higher failure rate on compressors in vehicles that had that stuff put into the system versus cars that had never used it. Putting the fire saftey factors to the side for a moment you really need to look at the operating pressures for a given tempature range compared to the original refridgerant.

Just because you saved a few bucks now it could end up costing you alot more down the road.
 
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Northern

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First great tread for a good laugh.

Use propane if you want, just keep you ticking time bomb away from me and off any roads anyone might be driving on.

If you don't have a 608 (TYPE 1,2,3 AND UNI) or a 609 (AUTOMOTIVE) license then leave the HVAC/refrigeration work to the people that do it for a living and know what they are doing.
 
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R290 is a type of propane used as a refrigerant. It is not the same type of propane found in common outdoor grilles...If you want to use R290, make sure you obtain it from the correct sources, not your local gas grille on the back deck :icon_thumby:
SVT
R290 is simply Propane WITHOUT the odorant added to it.

Propane's explosive limits and flash point are much safer than say... gasoline....

Propane isn't all that easy to ignite intentionally and even harder to ignite accidentally.

"Same kind of propane"?

Propane is a simple alphitic hydrocarbon with three carbons in the chain

Anyone care to guess what substance "R-12 freon" was chosen as a substitute for?

PROPANE.

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