I'm new to the forum and I'm thinkin about building a bronco 2 for a rock crawler and have a question on suspension. How much lift can I get out of it without binding anything and having to much of an angle on the drive shafts. Is the front suspension coil springs and shocks or no? If it is can I put jeep Jk coils on it with longer shocks or is that to much lift or not very much? What is the cheapest way to lift it to get more flex? Could I lift it by gettin longer shocks only and get more flex or would I have to get new leaf springs and radius arms? Any info will be appreciated. If I'm missing anything please add it in. Thanks.
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B2 suspension question
- Thread starter B2crawler
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bigger shackles the guys on this site know exactly what they are i believe they are beltech 4600 shackles, that takes care of your rear. Find a F-250 in your junk yard pull the shocks and coils from it throw em in your b2 with very little modification ( you just have to bend the retaining piece of the coil mount) thats the cheapest lift i know about definitely look at the tech library theres step by step instructions etc. on how to do what i just explained to you on there. Also any further questions concerning things that are not Bronco II specific can go in the "general discussions" forum.
country0001
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You can do a 1-2" body lift and trim the fenders to fit 33's.
A 4" suspension lift from Rough Country is only 440 bucks.
A 4" suspension lift from Rough Country is only 440 bucks.
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What kind of trails are you looking to do with it? If you want to build a legitimate rock crawler for intense trails then stock axles have to go. If you want a mild trail runner then you could swap in a d35 and 8.8. Either way the d28 and 7.5 have to go
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the f250 coils will ride like crap and have less flex then he has now and to be specific you need the shock mounts off a 4wd f250 the 2wd truck have the shock mounts built into the coil bucket iirc
It will be wheeled at super lift orv park and we usually do level 3-4 trails and wheeled as hard as possible. I've gotta keep the stock axles for a while till I can get jeep solid axles to put under it if it's possible to do that. The more flex the better. I would like to get as much flex as possible. Lift hight isn't a big deal but would like to get at least 2 1/2 ft. Of flex if not more if that is possible and be able to tuck the tires in the fender wells when flexin on rocks.
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Jeep axles suck, just swap in a Dana 44 from a 78-79 f150 or bronco. Build extended radius arms off of the stockers, use EB coil springs and a ruff stuff trac bar kit. You can use f250 shock mounts. For the rear I would use trail gear 3in lift leafs. Thats about as simple as it gets and it should work great.
Oh yea, and FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SEARCH! All of this has been covered so many friggin times
Oh yea, and FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SEARCH! All of this has been covered so many friggin times
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I wouldn't mess around with Jeep axles... The front D30 from a Jeep may be a little stronger than your D28, but it's not as strong as the D35 from an Explorer, and it just bolts in (your stock 7.5" rear is better than a Jeep rear D35 already)
What size tires are you ultimately planning on? Maybe take a look at my build for some ideas (link in sig).
Edit:
Too slow on the jeep axles :icon_twisted:
What size tires are you ultimately planning on? Maybe take a look at my build for some ideas (link in sig).
Edit:
Too slow on the jeep axles :icon_twisted:
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my local club has superlift as our local venue park... superlift is a nice place. i like it.
personally, if i was you... i'd just get the ford hp d44/9" combo now, build it right. coils up front w/ the stock ra's and 9" rear w/ some good soft leafs.
you're not gonna be able to 3-4's over there likely with stock axles. the d28/7.5 is weak for that. plus you'll be running what? at least 33's locked diffs? you're gonna break it... plus why spend money on the ttb stuff when you know you're gonna sas? seriously...spend the money once and be done. do the ford hp d44/9" now. that's my plan for an explorer i have... maybe i'll see you at superlift one day. :icon_thumby:
OK... you want to build a rock crawler... keep it LOW. You do not need a lift. It is easy to cut your fenders to clear 33" tires, I have done it.
Personally, if I was building another TTB rig (and I will one day) I would leave it right at stock height, no TTB lift crap, no gay body lift, nothing. I would build extended radius arms and run a D35/D44 hybrid with long, soft Jeep coils, coilovers, or ORI struts.
Of course when you have that much time and money into building a TTB axle to both work well and not break, you will have as much money into it as you would building a really nice solid axle D44 or even a D60.
My advice is pick the tire size you ultimately want to run, and build your truck around that.
Personally, if I was building another TTB rig (and I will one day) I would leave it right at stock height, no TTB lift crap, no gay body lift, nothing. I would build extended radius arms and run a D35/D44 hybrid with long, soft Jeep coils, coilovers, or ORI struts.
Of course when you have that much time and money into building a TTB axle to both work well and not break, you will have as much money into it as you would building a really nice solid axle D44 or even a D60.
My advice is pick the tire size you ultimately want to run, and build your truck around that.
Here is proof of 33" tires on a stock height truck with NO rubbing. I cut about 4" out of the fender and a lot out of the plastic inner liner. This was my old tough truck.
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long soft coils, cut and turned beams or skyjacker brackets, extended radius arms, crossover steering, long good shocks.... lots of money!
to do that, you might as well build it right the first time... what's your FINAL plan for the truck? sas'ed and 35's? 35's will do most all the trails at superlift if you have a good spotter. 33's might even, if you don't mind damage lol.
if you're not staying at ttb... i wouldn't lift it and make it flex. if you want sas, do it now. i'm not saying sas is the only way to go... i'm not sas'ing my rig. but i'm not trying to do 4's either.
to do that, you might as well build it right the first time... what's your FINAL plan for the truck? sas'ed and 35's? 35's will do most all the trails at superlift if you have a good spotter. 33's might even, if you don't mind damage lol.
if you're not staying at ttb... i wouldn't lift it and make it flex. if you want sas, do it now. i'm not saying sas is the only way to go... i'm not sas'ing my rig. but i'm not trying to do 4's either.
I am telling you, you want a low center of gravity for a rock crawler. I have over 6" of lift in the front of mine and I wish it was a lot lower. You DO NOT NEED IT.
What do you gain with a huge lift? Nothing. Your differentials are still the same distance from the ground no matter what. Keep it low, build a super skid plate and you'll have a nice stable rig.
Also, you can make your suspension flex a LOT without a huge amount of lift.
Yea. Im tryin to do it on a budget since ill be in college this fall. Where can I get the axle drop brackets? I haven't been able to find where you can buy just the brackets. How much longer do I need to make the radius arms for 6" jeep coils? Just a question but could you run just coils in the front with no shocks or do you have to have shocks? If you can run just coils would you have to have the drop brackets and longer radius arms?
4x4junkie how much $$ did your shock coils and drop brackets end up costing you? I like your set up.
4.0b2 I've prolly seen you or you seen me there when I wheeled my tracker
4x4junkie how much $$ did your shock coils and drop brackets end up costing you? I like your set up.
4.0b2 I've prolly seen you or you seen me there when I wheeled my tracker
You can't buy just the axle drop brackets because you literally need everything else too. Lift manufacturers don't sell single pieces (or at least they don't advertise it if they do) because they would not want half a lift and some cobbled up junk running around with their name on it.
Yes, you need shocks unless you want to bounce off the road.
Since you are on a college budget, I will reiterate that no lift is the way to go and by far the cheapest!
Yes, you need shocks unless you want to bounce off the road.
Since you are on a college budget, I will reiterate that no lift is the way to go and by far the cheapest!
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You can get skyjacker brackets here on TRS from Jim oaks enterprise. They ain't cheap tho. Then add in coils, f250 shock towers, shocks, DOM to extend your radius arms, brakelines, steering (expensive on it's on), gears, tires, sliders, so on....
Idk what your budget is; but you'll blow thru it in no time doing it right. Have you read in the tech library? Read any of the million threads on TTB lifting??
Idk what your budget is; but you'll blow thru it in no time doing it right. Have you read in the tech library? Read any of the million threads on TTB lifting??
Ok. I didn't know if I had tO have shocks since its not driven on the road. How would I do it with no lift. I'm just tryin to figure out suspension travel right now. I've got tires and can get gears cheap. My budget is just gettin parts every week and workin on it as I get them.