EX dash gauge for battery issue

[tjs4x4]

I've had this problem for quite some time now. I thought I had it figured out when I realized my wiring harness for the left side of the cluster was backwards, but its not the entire case.

Every time I push the power window switches, it does not matter which one, the battery gauge goes up and down, indicating to mean a drain.

Took it to Oreilly's and the guy said the alternator and regulator are working fine, but that something is draining the battery, and THAT is why my HEADLIGHTS and all other lights dim when I hit the power window switches.

NOW, I have to know WHY this is happening. Has anyone had this happen to them? I replaced the driver's main PW switch thinking that was it, but its not. It's happening to all 4 switches. Any ideas where I can look for the problem?

 

[tjs4x4]

Anyone????!!!!

 

[Shran]

I'd get a wiring diagram and find where the ground(s) are at for the power windows. Clean those up and see if that helps.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Def sounds like a ground issue to me as well. My 91 does that a bit to, but only if you hold the power window switch in the up position when the window is already up....but not enough that it is really noticeable.

 

[jovibuilt]

How much does the gauge move?Its normal for it to move some.I have four explores and all of them do it.The gauge moves a little everytime you roll the window up or down.Power window motors draw quite a lot of power.

 

[tjs4x4]

It only does it a little, just worries me, but the fact that my HEADLIGHTS and all my lights DIM when I do this has me concerned, and the fact that the Oreilly's guy who tested my battery said there's a draw somewhere on it. The alternator tested fine, the regulator tested fine...but the battery is not. And that's my 3rd battery.


I SUCK at wiring diagrams. If anyone has one and can explain it to me, I'd be greatly appreciative.

 

[4.0B2]

Is it constant when moving the windows or just when it gets all the way up or down? My lights dim when the window is at the extreme point of up or down.

 

[tjs4x4]

It only happens when I use the power windows...

 

[4.0B2]

So the whole time you are pushing the button the lights dim? Okay, hmm clean grounds. Is the alternator putting out to it's full capacity?

 

[Shran]

I SUCK at wiring diagrams. If anyone has one and can explain it to me, I'd be greatly appreciative.

Find your power window switches in a wiring diagram for your vehicle. Haynes or Chilton might contain one. Next:

You are looking for this symbol...

This indicates a ground. Follow the line it is attached to until you find one or two letters next to it, these indicate the color of the wire. There should be a wire color code somewhere in the diagram too that explains what abbreviation is for certain colors. Now just find that wire in your vehicle and trace it back to where it is grounded at.

Sorry for the gigantic pic.

 

[4.0B2]

I still say it's a ground issue to. Clean every ground. Not only the ones by the switches.

 

[tjs4x4]

Yes it happens the whole time I'm pressing the buttons.

 

[adsm08]

Well if you have a draw, you need to find that.

Hook up an amp meter to the positive cable, and the positive terminal with the cable unhooked, wait 20 minutes, then start pulling fuses until the draw drops off.

 

[84bluebronco2]

My 94 Explorer's battery gauge moves when I use my power windows, but immediately spikes back up when I stop. Never seems to hurt anything for me. Just keep an eye on it Mach, and clean up the grounds.

 

[Shran]

FWIW, I have two 500w amps in my F150 as well as a 10" sub... if I turn the volume up fairly high my battery gauge goes nuts. I wouldn't worry about this a whole lot.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I have a schematic for a 90 ranger it shows that they share the same ground it is the black wire off the drivers side switch. If your going through batteries you need to figure out why. Start off taking all the grounds you can find apart and sanding them metal to metal and getting them tight. Checking the charging system is fairly easy with a volt meter. Fully charge the battery first and measure the voltage say 12.8 volts. start the engine and run it at around 1500 rpm and measure the voltage at the battery, when it stabilizes after a few minutes you want no more than 2.5 volts over battery voltage or no higher than 15.3 volts at 1500 rpm, that is the no load check. Turn the lights on and a/c on high if you have it or turn everything on heater radio run it at about 2000 rpm and measure the voltage at the battery it should be no lower than .5 volts over battery voltage or no less than 13.3 volts at 2000 rpm, that is the load test. The tech library has a section on troubleshooting if you fail either one of those tests.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Make sure the battery posts and cable clamps are clean and tight!

 

[tjs4x4]

Yeah, I'll have to pull the pw switch out and see if that black wire has come apart. I replaced the switch once thinking that was the problem.

I'll check what I can.

 

[trail B2]

What i'm reading is your not concerned about the gauge moving your concerned about the lights dimming at the same time.The thing you need to determine is does it only do this with the window or any large draw with the lights on mess with your other accessories to see if you can duplicate it.If you can't put an amp gauge on the source for the windows and see what it draws to determine if it needs repair.If it does check the ground strap between the body and the motor and the block and starter connections on the battery cables.

 

[tjs4x4]

I've checked the alternator cables, the battery cables on the battery, the ground from battery positive to the right fenderwell. I noticed that with ANY lights on, the voltage goes down. Battery is staying at 12.63-12.65 when engine off. When engine on, its running at 14.05-14.15. Isn't it supposed to be above 15? I have an electrical problem that i can't figure out.