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Rear shaft replacement


adsm08

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I know it has been discussed before. I searched but the search yielded nothing intelligible or helpful so I am looking for info from people who have done it.

I am planning to send an Explorer rear shaft to the machine shop to get shortened for use in my B2. The fact that it will be an extremely short single cardan shaft isn't going cause any vibration issues, right?
 


kcm1582

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Only way I could see it being a problem is if you are running it at an extreme angle.
 

adsm08

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Only way I could see it being a problem is if you are running it at an extreme angle.
That is kind of my concern. I'm not planning to change the driveline angles from stock any. My concern is the angles that will be produced by the extreme short length of the shaft.

But on the other hand I remember seeing something in here about someone grabbing an F-150 front shaft and just bolting it right in.
 

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Explorer front shaft bolts right in if you have a FM145 or TK5 trans. Anything else, you'll need to shorten it 2".

I wouldn't mess with anything single-cardan under a BII.
 

adsm08

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Explorer front shaft bolts right in if you have a FM145 or TK5 trans. Anything else, you'll need to shorten it 2".
Yeah, it has an FM146, so I know it needs shortened any way you cut it.
I wouldn't mess with anything single-cardan under a BII.

That's my concern as well. If I didn't have one of the long transmissions I wouldn't be as worried about it.
 

Totalled

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I have a C5 in mine, and I am getting rid of the single joint shaft. It vibes at 60 MPH and up. I'm putting a double cardan in, cause I am going to 4.56 gears, and the drive shaft speed will only make it worse. Anything more than stock height with the long transmissions would probably max the angles.

 

adsm08

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That is basically what I was afraid of. Guess it's a trip to the JY Saturday to find a front shaft.

In the meantime I suppose I'll just replace my torn boots.
 

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Be sure to get the front output yoke off the donor's t-case, and a driveshaft flange to mate the shaft to your axle flange (the piece seen in Totalled's pic). You'll need these parts also to bolt it under there after it's shortened.
 

adsm08

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I have yokes all over the place. All have the right bolt spacing, dunno if they will fit the U-joint though.

I put the CV shaft back together with new boots today at work, so at least I have something useable for a few weeks until I can round up all the parts.

The only thing that I'm not clear on is how the front output yoke is going to help. Isn't it the wrong style? My 91 case has the bolt/strap front output.
 

country0001

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I'm using a 1354 shaft for mine.

SVT said to get1310/1330 u joints for it.

ADSM, do you have an extra 2.75 yoke flange? I need one bad. I have 2 3" ones.
 

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The only thing that I'm not clear on is how the front output yoke is going to help. Isn't it the wrong style? My 91 case has the bolt/strap front output.
It's a little bit hard to attach a yoke-mount driveshaft to a companion flange... :icon_twisted: :D
 

adsm08

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ADSM, do you have an extra 2.75 yoke flange? I need one bad. I have 2 3" ones.
Let me get the garage cleared and look. I'm not sure what is where except that the B2 is currently buried at the bottom of a pile of other mostly worthless crap and Bronco II parts.

I do know that my Ranger's old drive shaft is still in there somewhere, and it should have a 2.75 flange on it still.

It's a little bit hard to attach a yoke-mount driveshaft to a companion flange... :icon_twisted: :D
Which is where my confusion comes in. You referenced Totalled's pic which is using the companion flange.

Are you saying grab the front output from the donor's t-case and install it on the rear of mine? If so, does that work with a 1350 or did the spline count/shaft size change?
 
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4x4junkie

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Totalled's pic shows the axle companion flange. You need a yoke to replace the rear flange on your transfer case as well (this is what the 1354 front output yoke is for, the splines are the same).

Sorry for the confusion.
 

adsm08

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Totalled's pic shows the axle companion flange. You need a yoke to replace the rear flange on your transfer case as well (this is what the 1354 front output yoke is for, the splines are the same).

Sorry for the confusion.
Ok, I'm with you now. I know all the part names (I better, I have a college degree in it and do it for a living every day :icon_rofl:). Sometimes I just don't follow instructions and ideas very well.
 

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No problem. we all get confused sometimes :icon_twisted:
 

adsm08

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No problem. we all get confused sometimes :icon_twisted:
You should have seen me tonight trying to put a 1987 bw1350M on with the bolts from a 1988 bw1350E.

Did you know they changed the adapter plate threading from one to the other?

They did.

Took me 45 minutes to come up with the idea of just swapping the face plate form one case to the other.

Now I just gotta chop up the floor plate for the shifter.
 
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