Yeah it would certainly have been easier to get another set of matching doors. Only took a couple hours to swap over the guts from one door to the next, lol. Instead of 15-20mins to swap a whole set of doors on. I would have went that route had the second set of doors I had been in better shape.
On another topic, I might have to build an anti-wrap bar now, my rear Exploder springs are starting to exhibit slight wheel hop. I'm thinking of using one of the stock 76-79f150 radius arms I have kicking around here. Usually once wheel hop starts, it only gets worse as you bag on the rear springs.
Mind you, I have 3" lift blocks under them rear Explorer leaf springs and to get them blocks out of there would give a bunch of leverage back to the spring pack. Maybe give them back the ability to control wheel hop better. Just need to figure out what route to go to keep the lift height I have when I ditch the rear blocks. I do still have the stock 86BII shackles out back, longer shackles would free up some flex but I would need a 6" longer shackle than what's under there to gain 3" lift lost if I remove the blocks. Not to mention the pinion angle would prolly change and need re-aligning....cut leaf perches off and weld back on at the correct angle again. My leaf bushings look to be in need of replacing as well, could be they are allowing the diff to move slightly and inducing wheel hop?
Maybe I should get working harder on gathering parts to link the rear. Rear flex is marginal at best under there, it would be nice to have at least a 60/40 front to rear flex ratio, tho 50/50 would be sweet. I think it prolly has 75/25 right now.
Well, if you build ladder bars to go underneath the rear end, your rear flex will be even more marginal depending on how you do it. Go look up CopyKat's BIV build, he used F-150 hangers which dropped down the suspension a bit. If you were to do that and run say a Belltech 6400 shackle set, it would definitely get you close to what you're hoping for. As far as pinion angle goes, it shouldn't be THAT bad, so just run some pinion shims.
Hey thanks Andres, I'll go back and re-read CopyKats build again.
I have built several anti-wrap bars over the years, basically a triangulated tube system that prevents wrap and mounts to a shackle at the frame, this style won't limit suspension travel at all.
My thought was to hard mount the rad arm to the diff and then build a shackle system to mount it to the frame so it can move with the arc of the springs and not bind throughout travel.
I have a CV rear drive shaft so in all reality pinion angle is negligible.
We'll see, I like the idea of different hangers to relocate the springs lower on the frame, too bad I just tossed out the back half of an f150 frame about a week ago.
Actually this reminds me, I was thinking about relocating the spring hangers under the frame at one point, maybe I should look into that some more as well.
My plan is links eventually, so I don't want to spend a lot on the leaf set-up if I can help it.
I should really start buying Johnny Joints, 8 feet of 2x2x1/4" and start building the rad-arm rear already, Want to basically copy the front for the rear.
So many other things I would like to buy for this project before I link the rear tho.
Namely 5.13 gears and 100feet of tube for the exo to start with. Need cage soon... before I flop this thing.
Was in the back yard doing some Urban ditch wheeling when my buddy asked me if it could drive up a tree, so we tried it out. Could have climbed right up and onto it's roof, lol.
Hey Bones! Just came back through the thread looking for how you chopped your fenders. Did the same cut on my BII I just picked up, and thought I'd say I still love this rig! Anything new on it?
I entered in the mud bogs here in town at the beginning of Sept. and came in second place in the 'stock rig 38-44 tire class', friggin amazed me all to hell!! I was up against fullsize rigs with V8's and larger tires and I actually beat them. Consistently ran in the 9 seconds which over the 2 day event gave me second place. Pissed off a few of the big boys too, lol. Made my year!! I paid $50 to enter and threw $50 fuel in it and won $100 and a medal, Hella sweet!!
Here's a clip from the bogs. The guy I'm racing has a healthy sbc with 350+hp ( so he said) and 42's under his Cheby. The mud was diff dragging all the way and sloppy clay like mud.
Still can't believe my little 4leaker and 38's beat the V8's and 44's tho.
Here's my buddy in the silver Chev on 40's with a real healthy sbc trying the same lane in the vid above. Still not sure how I flew through the mud that fast and the big boys bogged down. Mind you my 38's are only 12.5 wide and all the big trucks had very wide rubber, maybe that helped me cut threw the mud? My 1/2 ton diffs and 38's maybe had the same clearance as 44's and 1tons, maybe my power to weight ratio is similar as the big heavy powerful trucks?? Who knows, but she did very well and was the crowd favorite all weekend!! The green ford he's racing is who got 1st place in my class, he ran 38.5x11" boggers and had a claimed 490hp from a big block 460, the limit for stock class was 500hp. He ran in the 7-8 seconds consistently.
I've been wheeling it pretty much every weekend, beating it hard, she seems to be taking it like a champ!! Knock on wood, lol.
I think a couple of my tires spun on the wheel when I was aired down wheeling because I have a nasty shake at certain speeds now and then it's as smooth as glass at certain speeds. No steering wheel feed back tho, no death wobbler and any steering wheel wobble at all, it feels like the wheels are jumping off the ground as I drive, lol. As long as I keep in at the smooth speeds it's great, haha, but tough to do all the way to the trailhead. I even tried adding antifreeze to each wheel as some old timers said it will balance them.....NOT, it just changed the speeds at which the wheels shake.
I'm going to see if I can get them balanced somewhere, I have checked around a bit and no one is willing to try and balance 38's, tho I haven't called every place in town. I do have a new wheeling buddy that owns a shop here in town, just met him last trip and he said he'll give it a try on his balancer. Hope it works cause they shake real bad at certain speeds. Basically when I hit 80kph/40ishmph the whole bronco shakes and when I hit 90kph/55mph it stops shaking all together and then any faster and the shake comes back 10 fold. Frustrating because these tires used to be smooth all the way.
They were balanced with lead weights when I bought them, I noticed that 2 wheels now have no weights on them any more, that's the 2 that I believe are shaking now. Drivers front and passenger rear.....shakes the Bronco real nasty at those speeds.
One of the last couple trips I ended up puncturing the oil filter on the trail as I was crawling through a real twisty section. I started to see light blue smoke puffing up through my ripped shifter boot, smelt like something burning so I stopped and jumped out and looked under the Bronco to see flickering light coming from the engine bay. I quickly popped the hood to 2 foot tall flames jumping out the now open hood! Holy shit, so I started grabbing hand fulls of sand and threw it on the flames. Half a minute of this and I had the fire out. Burnt all the insulation off the heater box too. Once the filter was punctured it spurted a stream of oil onto the passenger exhaust manifold and promptly ignited. By the time I saw smoke there was little oil left in the engine. I was wheeling with a Yj and a Cherokee, the guy in the Cherokee had a spare filter for his Jeep 4.0L and the guy in the YJ had 4L of fresh oil. Turns out the Jeep 4.0L oil filter is a direct swap onto the Ford 4.0L!! Imagine that! Slapped the J##P filter on and tossed the fresh oil in a continued wheeling the rest of the day. That trip was a bad trip too, after the Bronco almost burnt up, the YJ spit out it's rear d-shaft and bent both front leafs and the Cherokee granaded it's front d-shaft and cracked the tranny housing and spewed all it's atf on the ground way out in the bush. We spent the next several hours limping the 2 broken J##Ps back out to the road where I towed both back to my place about 5kms from the trail head.... one at a time.
I have violent shaking through the steering wheel, shifter and a lil in the body at about 35-40 mph, then it stops, i think its my swampers (their un balanced) but i noticed if theres more weight in the front its not as bad i.e. going down hill, or brakeing, so is it only cause there non balanced or am I lookin at another problem?
I have violent shaking through the steering wheel, shifter and a lil in the body at about 35-40 mph, then it stops, i think its my swampers (their un balanced) but i noticed if theres more weight in the front its not as bad i.e. going down hill, or brakeing, so is it only cause there non balanced or am I lookin at another problem?
I agree with Railman, unbalanced, cupped, badly worn tires will cause shaking, but it usually doesnt go away. Once you get up to freeway speeds (65-80) it gets ALOT worse. The 03 red ranger im working on has this problem.
it could also be the center support bearing in the drive shaft. My 94 had this problem, and i remember the truck would shake in first and second gear, but by the time i was in 3rd, it was fine. I can't remember if the steering wheel shook or if it got better or worse when braking.
The Green Machine is built on a FS Blazer chassis, totally street legal too, inspected and registered as "2010 Ubuilt". Warmed up carburated sbc, sm465/np205 sitting on 12b/d44 but he's in the process of building 1tons (d60/14bFF)for it. It's sitting on 38" TSL SX and stock height springs, weighs in at 5600lbs. When the 1tons go in he wants to step up to 40-42 Swampers.
Snowracer has been happy with his rig, aside from it's lack of power (his words) , he bent a front shock last trip and now it has some weird noises coming from one of the 2 tcases too.
My 38" TSL's have less than 2000KMs on them, I'm really hoping the balancer smooths them out. We will see.
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