CopyKat
Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2007
- Messages
- 765
- Reaction score
- 3
- Points
- 18
- Location
- Manitoba, Coldest place in Canada
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Vehicle
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0L
Thanks. I hope to have it running next week.
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You may not have enough pipe in front of the MAF for laminar flow so the MAF can get a good reading on the airflow.shady
The filter creates turbulence causing an incorrect reading when you have it that close to the filter, probably something you dont want on a boosted engine. Put a bit of pipe inbetween the filter and sensor and you should be fine.:icon_confused:
Don't know what would make you think that? it's no different than any other cold air kit out there, or a stock setup for that matter. The adapter I made for the filter is large enough and is in the right spot for the sampling hole. It's getting direct/unobstructed flow to it.
If you look at the stock MAFS you will see it already has a screen in it. Second of all the filter has a 6 sided baffle in the center to straighten flow also. The adapter I made in a manner that the sampler hole had a straight shot of getting air flow. So the 3" pipe is not centered on the MAFS throat. Since the max opening on the MAFS is about 2.5" I had 1/2" of play to move the intake tube.
Now as for heat the turbine housing is not going to get to the point of glowing red in this application. It will not be run at 10 000 RPM under load for 4 Hours straight.
If you look close you will see that there is a heat shield I'm making that will separate the turbo from the intake filter.
I don't understand some people. They think that because your installing a turbo that your going to be running 30 psi and pushing the engine to it's full potential and have all the goodies that a fast and the furious car would have.
I'm not posting this to get help or criticism. I'm posting this to help other gather ideas for doing a similar setup. There are a bunch of turbo guys I'm friends with that have helped me with some advise. So thanks for trying to help.
My heat shield I built has a heat reflective mylar coating on the one side. If it melts off no big deal I'll find something else to replace it with. There is a 3" air gap around the turbo and heat shield.You don't need 4 hours of WOT and a turbo to get glowing headers. I saw it on the dyno just two weeks ago when we were running a BMW bike motor at WOT for about 30 seconds. No turbo.
I also saw it on my ranger after a WOT blast when I had the stock turbo manifold and ihi turbo on it.
You may not care about any of this, and I can see that you are an excellent fabricator, but the fact remains, it WILL get hot and decrease power and increase tendency to detonate.
Those of us posting and commenting are doing so for constructive purposes, not to be critical. Most of the comments come from people with turbo experience, and if we can help avoid a conflict with your installation, it is a plus for you. Whether you take the advice or not is up to you, but it is there for you if you want it. But, self education can sometimes be expensive as hell.shadyI'm not posting this to get help or criticism. I'm posting this to help other gather ideas for doing a similar setup. There are a bunch of turbo guys I'm friends with that have helped me with some advise. So thanks for trying to help.
I still have a bit to do. I was hopping to work on it all day but that got canned right away with a power outage. I've got my fingers crossed. Only thing that could slow things down is that my batteries are dead.Looking good. Good luck tonight!
My brother inlaw has one that hass a sampler pipe. It will be used to tune the extra injectors. I've got the wastegate wide open right now and plan to keep it like that for the first startup. I'll start adding boost when I start tuneing it. We are in the middle of a blizzard right now and i'm not going to be tuning when it's like that outside.looks great get it started. Do you have a wideband to monitor the AFRs?
Close. Just outside of Steinbach.hey copykat do you live in winnipeg by chance?