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I think they all do that! mine did the same thing. I just got used to it. clean the linkages on the carb, then spray it generously with silicone spray lubricant

replace the module on the distributor. 2 7mm head screws. pita, but id bet that is the problem. after the screws are out it will unplug downward, 3 prongs. you will probably have to grind a socket to almost paper thin to get to the screws

shift linkage issue

check the distributor module. it is on the outside if the dist, it is what the wires plug in to. there are 2 screws that hold it to the dist. I think they are 7mm. you will need to grind a socket to almost paper thin to get into the holes. then pull down and three spade terminal will unplug from...

I would put my $ on connecting rod bearings. I have had a few engines do exactly the same thing, kind of a hollow knocking sound. more noticeable on deceleration. replace the crankshaft with a reground one, and new bearings. if you pull the engine out for this, get the rods resized also

you should be able to modify it

the tab sometimes comes loose from the nut, so be prepared to swear at it! I had the same problem, and was gonna do the same thing as you, but my leaves were severely worn, almost 1/4 of the way thru at the end of each leaf. you may want to do an add-a-leaf

the wheels I had were chrome deer hoof

the 89 and newer had the clutch safety switch. my 84 does not

I put 32/10.50 on my B II with no lift. had to trim the fenders forward of the tires, and rolled the rear side of the fender. didn't take much in the rear, just folded the lip up. my wheels had 1.5" offset, making a wider stance

im not sure on the 88, but i know 89 and up do require a different ecm. i have one from a 90 B II, 2.9 5 speed if it will work for you. i actually have 2 B II's im parting out. drivetrain from an 84, and most of a 90. if you need pedals, i have both styles

thats a good swap, but you will also need to swap the distributor to a duraspark. look in the tech section for the specific info on this swap

you will need the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate for the m5od. also the starter. the shifter will come through the floor in a little different position, i believe about 2" forward. the line from the clutch master cylinder will also need to be changed, possibly the master also. if you are...

white smoke usually indicates coolant in the cylinder(s). can you smell antifreeze? is the coolant level low? if it is clouds of smoke it isnt valve seals. with valve seals it will usually smoke at startup for a few seconds then clear up.

agreed! i will be driving it conservatively, i will need it to get me home! i am going to trail test it locally, at walker valley. tons of videos of this place on youtube, check them out! i will hopefully find any weak spots there, only a half hour from home(unless i have to walk). im making my...

ok, thanks. yes, putting in M5OD. was planning to lower t-case/trans, and tilt rear diff to match angles. i am planning to run the rubicon trail next year. i plan to drive there and back, and im nearly at the canadian border. yes, i will carry a spare axle for each corner and spare driveshafts...

im in the process of building my B II and have been wanting to do a dual T-case, but im concerned about the rear driveshaft. its already short, and im swapping to an 8.8, which is gonna shorten it more. add 3" of suspension lift and the angle will get pretty severe. i was wondering what OP are...

if you have cruise control there is a vaccuum switch at the pedal to cut the the c/c. the biggest bummer is the hose is barely accessable without pulling the dash. i hope this helps

i was thinking the same thing, ignition timing.

you said you go mudding a couple times a week. is the radiator clogged with mud? have a buddy shine a light through the radiator and see if you can see the light. if you cant see through it, air cant flow through it