Redneck ways to fix a oil leak?!

[Pbheadshots]

So recently I just put my motor back into the b2 and of course that dang sump pan gasket refuses to seal now it's all back in the b2 so and ideas? It leaks at the back side closest to the tranny at the semicircle...

Im thinking a tube of rtv packed all into that area and hope to god it works?

Any ideas?

And no I'm not removing the engine and starting over. If I wanted to do that this thread wouldn't exist.

 

[chrwilkins30]

As I've never replaced a oil pan gasket on these engines. Are these a 1piece unit or multiple pieces. I have read that you have to pull the engine to replace this but from what I can tell from my truck and seeing the crossmember, It looks like there is at least 1in to around the bottom of the pan to be able to replace the gasket. It would be tight, but seams doable. Not sure if its possible but I'm just thinking it might work.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Nothing will work. Nothing will stop it. If you want it done correctly you will have to replace something. Not like the engine is all that hard to pull.

If its not the oil pan gasket its the rear main. If its the rear main you could just pull the transmission out

More like "Redneck ways to slow an oil leak"

 

[Pbheadshots]

It's a 2 peice so of course the gasket doesn't want to seal. And honestly It would be near impossible to drop the oil pain with the motor in place.

 

[adsm08]

You can get the pan down with the engine in place, but you would be hard pressed to get the gasket in and seated and sealed right, and to get the pan bolted back in properly.

 

[Psychopete]

I pulled a pan off an SOHC while it was still in the truck (it's not going back in), and it's probably about the worst way imaginable. Good chances that if you can tolerate putting it back together, it's going to be such a pain in the ass to get everything back in place that you'll be right back to leaking from not being able to do it correctly. It's that bad.

 

[88B2EB]

Had a buddy with an '88 that had the same problem. He tried everything, including an entire tube of silicone, and was still putting in a quart a week. That's when you start talking in terms of oil mileage. From the responses it sounds like taking the engine back out might be the only sure fix. At least you just did it. The second time's always easier.

 

[InsaneRedRooster]

Why not just raise the motor enough to get the pan out? Could be less stuff to take apart

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2

 

[country0001]

Why not just raise the motor enough to get the pan out? Could be less stuff to take apart

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2

Because its a real tight fit. You might have 1 inch betheen the tranny and cab. If you had a 3 inch BLit might be possible to raise the engine enough to put it in.

To do it correctly, you know the answer.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

Why not just raise the motor enough to get the pan out? Could be less stuff to take apart

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2

yep, thats what i did to replace mine jacked up the motor about 2 feet had to loosen the tranny from the tranny crossmember and it was a huge pain in the ass ill never do it again, then we got it back down and the rear main didnt make it on right had to do it again. Just do it its a day of work or 2 days if youre me not a huge deal for saving all your oil.

 

[doorgunner]

well.....since "this thread wouldn't exist if".... (you AIN'T GONNA stop a pressurized oil leak with 30 pounds of rtv or anything else--small non-oil pressure leaks can be stopped that way---)..use spray-on carb/brake cleaner to remove oil from the area to determine WHERE the leak is coming from by driving the truck less than 20 miles an hour (to keep the oil from spreading EVERYWHERE AGAIN)....check the area good each time you go around the block to hopefully pin-point the source.....

then.................

find a nice dry spot.....with soft gravel...drain the engine oil...take off the battry cable/block the wheels/etc...take the trans aloose(secure it REALLY GOOD)....remove either the fan or the radiator(yes...it sounds a lot like pulling the engine...but you need the extra room/but don't need to punch a hole in the radiator)......unbolt the motor mounts...use an engine hoist to CAREFULLY raise the engine (without accidentally ripping any important stuff aloose).....remove ALL the oil pan bolts & ANYTHING that interferes with dropping the pan....IF THE PAN is still catching on the crankshaft/etc/jammed....CAREFULLY raise the engine more until the pan drops(don't EVEN pry it out!)....remove the seals/gaskets...spray/clean off oil....replace seal/gaskets (use good rtv!!!!)....re-install everything but the transmission(you decide this) so you can see what's hopefully NOT leaking.....(since I don't work on 4WD--you'll have to decide if the clutch is gonna be in the way when checking for leaks after reinstalling the engine.....sure--all this sucks, but we're not taking the engine out----right?)....make sure rear of engine can't drop since trans is not bolted on yet (unless you're absolutely positively sure the engine ain't gonna leak THIS time)

WAIT 24 HOURS (yep....24 miserable stinking hours) BEFORE ADDING ENGINE OIL & STARTING THE ENGINE--GIVE THE RTV A CHANCE TO SEAL GOOD AND to "DRY"!!!!!

O.K......ADD ENGINE OIL....crank her up let it idle til it warms up....(keep an EYE on the temp gauge).....look for leaks (find em before they spread everywhere)....rev to 2500 rpm a few times....check for leaks.....let it idle another 10 minutes (keep an eye on the temp)...check for leaks......rev to 2500 a few times (check the temp gauge).....check for leaks...get something to drink/eat a snack.....check the temp gauge/CHECK FOR LEAKS......

Turn the engine off....do something else for an hour or 2....then....

check for leaks.....

finish reinstalling trans (if you didn't do dat yet)......

drive vehicklle around neighborhood smiling about the good job you did...then.....

CHECK FOR LEAKS.....

there......you didn't have to pull the engine.......

 

[shane96ranger]

V8 Swap.... that will fix it.

 

[doorgunner]

V8 Swap.... that will fix it.

no.....no.....shane_.....You're on a much higher level there......key word is "redneck" (we're thinking JB Weld/coat hangers/etc.....)

take it down about 5 notches.....then get back with us.... ;missingteeth;

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

no.....no.....shane_.....You're on a much higher level there......key word is "redneck" (we're thinking JB Weld/coat hangers/etc.....)

take it down about 5 notches.....then get back with us.... ;missingteeth;

Gotta be redneck.... SBC swap then :icon_idea:

Don't worry about it, eventually it will quit.


(seriously don't not worry about it though, that would cause you to be very unhappy)

The only way to fix it is to start over, there is oil running through it now and RTV will not stick to steel coated in oil. You can't get it clean enough to hold with the pan in place.

 

[shane96ranger]

no.....no.....shane_.....You're on a much higher level there......key word is "redneck" (we're thinking JB Weld/coat hangers/etc.....)

take it down about 5 notches.....then get back with us.... ;missingteeth;

OK.... let me try again...


2.8 V6 swap..... that will fix it!

 

[Pbheadshots]

Alright guys y'all killing me, but I'm just gonna slide the tranny and transfercase back, pinpoint the leak, unbolt a few of the pan bolts just enough to get a small gap to put a large bead of rtv in bolt it back up tight, wait a day, cross fingers, and Hope to God it works! If not looks like I'm pulling the damn thing again.

 

[kunar]

use a tampon (how's that for redneck)

http://jalopnik.com/5239651/how-to-change-a-jeeps-tampon

 

[4.0B2]

seriously, i've been there.. after pissing away time for several weeks and oil replacing the leaked... i pulled the motor and fixed it right. pure and simple, fix it right if you want it fixed.

 

[shane96ranger]

If it were me, and I was doing this redneck style, I wouldn't use silicone. I'd use Permatex's Form-a-Gasket 2. I've been using it for about 15 years, and it works great.

 

[4.0B2]

permatex is good stuff.