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I guess I'm the only one that's ever run with a vacuum gauge on the dash..

The vacuum advance is there to retard the timing under low rpm, high load conditions. Under light load conditions above around 1500 rpm, the motor likes around 38 degrees of advance. If you floor the pedal and you still have 38 degrees of timing you will get spark knock or detonation, the vacuum...

I've done a few on various vehicles over the years. The kits are usually easy to install and the included instructions are adequate for most people who know how to work a screwdriver. Strangely enough, I never had to do it on my 84 b2, all I did was take it apart, clean it, re-install and...

You can make a manual metering block to replace the mixture control solinoid. The instructions for making one should be on the site somewhere. Takes about half an hour to make with hand tools.

It sounds to me like the mixture control solenoid on the carb is not working or is stuck in the closed position.

Not having an rbv any more is not a valid excuse for leaving the site. The accumulated knowledge of the thousands of people who are on here is what makes this site great. What they're driving is irrelevent.

The glass is wider than the lower part of the hatch, you would have to make a narrower glass. There is also no free space inside the hatch, you would have to completely gut the interior and create a new inner skin.

should you take anything else? yes, a bucket of money.

The problem is in the turn signal switch.

First rule of off road is never go alone, if something breaks your still stuck. Oh! good deal by the way, well done.

The way that gears are cut means that there is a degree of force trying to push themselves apart. If the angle of the teeth is the same in both directions then the force that they impart that tries to push themselves apart is equal. however, on a ring and pinion set such as an axle, they are...

I can't imagine it surviving more than a few minutes, them u/j's are tiny.

When I did the conversion on mine I bought a new distributor and gm hei 4 pin midule (easy, just four wires), then made a manual metering block for the original carb (half an hour with hand tools). There were two main reasons I went this route, parts are much more expensive here than they are in...

You can make a manual metering block to replace the computer controlled solenoid and retain the original carb. The jeep 4 liter ho does 190 hp, you're not going to get close to that. That being said, I never had a problem keeping up with the jeeps in my b2, 2.8, duraspark distributor, gm hei...

You're very welcome, I know how frustrating it can be trying to figure out what fits where. When I got my b2 the handle was missing, trs had not begun and I did not have the factory manual. It was an interesting time in the workshop making parts that had to be imagined and then made. good luck.

E-mail sent, hope it's of some help.

There's a drawing of the latch assembly in the factory manual. I could make a copy and send it to you if you have an e-mail address.

What kind of hatch does it have? one piece, or with an opening window?

If you can't find any you might be able to make your own using heat shrink tubing, it's available in many sizes and colours.

Since the chain only drives the front end, I doubt that it is the cause of the clunk.